Mopar1973Man

Quadzilla web site... http://quadzillapower.com/2002-dodge-5-9l-cummins-adrenaline-with-iquadbt/ Go figure being that DAP owns Quadzilla... So it's just cheaper HP per dollar...

Yeah, because Smarty and TQ management makes the launching feel stronger. Yeah, the down low power is way better but the upper end power is not as great. Still can only do as much as CANBus will allow which is roughly 60-65 HP. This where a wire tap module does way better allowing to power way more on the upper end (120-180 HP). Since Smarty is always going to be limited to 60-65 HP range very limited on fuel and timing controls in my imnd its not worth the price. $685 for Smarty for 65 HP. That's $10.53 per HP. $599 for Edge Comp for 120 HP. That's $4.99 per HP. $1,149 For Edge Juice for 150 HP. That's $7.66 per HP. $742 for Quadzilla for 180 HP. That's $4.12 per HP. Quadzilla provides way more power, more functions, and way less price.

That right there will test if there is a internal short of the batteries. If there is a internal short the battery with the problem will continue to go dead without being hooked up. So charge the batteries good for few hours. Then disconnect both batteries for the night and measure the voltage of both batteries while disconnected. Remember if one battery is bad you have to replace both anyways.

Might have bad batteries with an internal short. So the batteries will be self-draining.

All the battery temperature sensor does is alter the charging voltage to meet the needs of the battery by temperature. So as the battery get warmer then the charging voltage goes down. All I can say is check for a error code for the battery temperature sensor.

It is impossible to siphon gas... Because there is diesel in the fuel tank not gas...

I'm running 4th gear at 55 MPH and 5th gear at 65 MPH. This is displayed at the bottom of each screen capture right below the EGT number. @Me78569 What is the deal with oil pressure readings?

There is a roll over valve in the sender top (vent) and then the other roll over valve is in the filler neck of the tank. Typically the roll over valves don't go bad because you never rolled the vehicle over on its top so the openings should still be open. They are not spring loaded. So it's possible the vent tube on the sender is plugged with dirt or mud. When you roll the vehicle up side down in an accident the balls will slide to close the fuel tank off. There is one roll over valve in the top of the sender that will slide shut for the tank vent. The other roll over valve is in the filler neck that will roll shut keeping fuel from running out the tank. Here is the filler neck rollover valve.

What makes it hard for me to understand you are not staying to one terminology. Part of the article you refer to throttle and the other part you refer to load. I base most of my tuning on engine load than throttle being most of my time is on cruise control and throttle shows as zero. I will admit when you are getting close you can pull your EGT's way down from what your use to seeing. Here is a screen capture from Council, ID valley where the speed limit is 55 MPH. Boost pressures are +1 high compared to the ISSPro. Then going across Indian Valley south of Council, ID where speed limit is 65 MPH.

Finally got around to hiding my High Idle Switch. I figure I would share my idea may there are some folks that don't want a dash full of holes.

Well crap!!! here I go back to figuring out things a bit more. Never mind that part of my post... Still an idiot here...

Finally getting a grasp of this new App and tuning features. I broke over 21 MPG. Things I did learn. MPG Fooler. This is awesome combo for custom tuning. Being it fixes the IAT temperature to 143*F and locks it in place it makes it super easy to build timing curve that fit your driving style. If you happen to own a high idle kit and Quadzilla enable the MPG fooler and start building a tune it will give you an even playground. Also @Me78569 and I found out that temps below +80*F will make the ECM add even more timing killing the tune as temperatures wander up and down. All along I was attempting to build tune without the MPG fooler thinking it would muddy the waters too much. Actually makes for a very stable tuning platform. You can crank up a bit more timing that you figured on your Cruise Timing Adv then using the the Fuel Load Timing to pull the timing back down based on load. This gives you the ability of having a really high timing under very low loads like slight downhill runs. Then as the load comes on the setting will pull the timing down up to 3* of timing. This is great for my kind of travel being I could run along a flat valley then climb a grade at the far end of the valley. Giving some retarded timing bring the torque curve back down allowing the engine to build power after the load is gone allowing to return to high timing again. Do not attempt to build a one tune fits all. I've attempted this and failed. You'll find the requirements for a good economy tune will be way different from a good performance tune. You constantly fight to get good MPG's then once you get the MPG's tune right the power will feel off and you go back to tweaking and now your power is back but now your MPG tune is back in the toilet. Make sure to stay focused on the type of tune you are attempting to build. Quadzilla give you all kinds of room for building many tunes take advantage of this and separate your tunes by purpose. Don't be afraid to try some wild settings. Some times you'll find other neat secrets to building power or MPG tunes. Optimally you need to be able to watch feedback from the engine to build a good tune. Like I'm using the OBDLink LX and a Android Tablet. I've got horsepower, torque, engine load, Instant MPG, total MPG and both IAT and ECT temperatures. I know the Quadzilla has some of these gauges but missing the MPG and power gauges. This gives me at least a rough measurement of if the tune is better or worse but changing a setting on timing and/or fuel. Go back over your tunes often and double check yourself. I've made errors in my tunes being either tired, in a hurry, or just having a dumb moment. It helps to review your setting often to catch mistakes.

Hook up is super easy everything is under the hood. There is only 1 wire that goes back in the cab. I'm also using the Android as well and working very good.

Funny but true. The previous owner of my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 blew the fuse for the cluster lighting so instead of replacing the fuse he hot wired the radio illumination lead to another trigger so the panel light would come on. So during my time of replacing the head light switch I wanted to get my panel dimmer working again. So I replaced the fuse and cut the hacked wiring out and now it all works correctly. It amazes me how much people can screw something up electrically. <- Previous Owner

In freezing weather you have to be careful because water will freeze in the filter and possibly in the fuel lines too. Causing all kinds of issues ranging from poor performance to no start at all. Gelled fuel is a different story and typically be dealt with by using anti-gel product. Water though there is no way to fix frozen water in fuel other than heat the vehicle up in an enclosed space.

At least you got it fixed and running...

Like I use 7 power levels this gives me... 0 Stock 1 Reduced power 2 CANBus 3 CANBus 4 33% of wire tap. 5 66% of wire tap. 6 Full wire tap. Remember you alway have to count ZERO as a number. So my power levels would just divide up the power even more into small amounts. So your affect the bold amount and how much your dividing the power per level.

Yeah...

Not suggested... Adding extra ground to mask over a problem tells me there are existing ground issues. As my article starts out... Before Testing - IMPORTANT PLEASE DO NOT SKIP! Before doing any testing of the alternator for AC noise, make sure to remove any and all wiring modifications. Return the electrical system back to stock. Make sure there is no extra grounds, relocation of ground wires or noise filters installed before testing the alternator. It has been brought to my attention that wiring mods can and will provide false passing grades for the alternator. The entire electrical system should be left stock and unmodified so you (the owner) are alerted sooner to impending alternator failure. Stock system will show AC noise issues much sooner than modified system which will mask the issue and then typically cause damage to ECM, PCM or VP44 sooner.

My tune has enough power to light up the tires in 4th gear pulling 10,000 pounds of hay down the road. Yeah, you'll be happy with the power...

Well most are going to suggest Quadzilla Adrenaline now. With the Quadzilla you can make you own tunes to fit what your doing. So you can have a empty truck tune with a bit more power. Then a towing tune setup for towing that doesn't tear up the drive line or transmission.

Now that I've replaced my high idle / MPG fooler cable. I took a test drive today to see how it would react kind of a poor day to get good reading being the IAT temperature is well in the 80's and the fooler made little impact on the timing. It did how ever make a impact on the warm timing while the Quadzilla is still disable during its warm up process (Coolant <160*F). The timing was reduced and MPG's still remained higher than without. So I've got another trip to do in the morning so I'll have a good test bed in the morning for testing the MPG fooler against the Quadzilla.

I just want to attempt to kill off some Internet myths again. Cleaning IAT sensor WILL NOT improve engine performance or fix any engine problems. This right here is an IAT sensor for 98.5 to 02 Dodge Cummins 24V engine. This sensor has about 50k miles of gunk on it. This has ZERO impact on the sensor ability to read air temperature in the manifold. Cleaning the sensor will do nothing for performance or MPG. The way to check the IAT sensor for problems is with a live data tool like OBDLink, ScanGauge II or even the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Now at first key on of the day take note of the coolant and the IAT temperatures. They should match if they do nothing needs to be done. If the don't match then the IAT sensor will most likely need to be replaced not cleaned. When doing this testing make sure the block heater is not plugged in for that night.

I need to get the MPG fooler turned on before drop below 80*F IAT. MPG's are better with warmer IAT temperatures. It seems there is a heavy amount of advancement below 80*F IAT which kills off the MPG's. I've been attempting to avoid the fooler so not to muddy the tuning up for the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Come to find out you do need the MPG fooler to keep pushing forward MPG wise. Again let this be a lesson. Do don't assume that more timing is better for efficiency. In my case with the super cold air (<80*F IAT) ECM is toss quite a bit of timing on top of the tune. Yesterday's run the weather warmed up in the 30's and the snow was melting I I was bouncing just over the 80*F mark and the timing started retarding back to normal. MPG's started rising back to the 20's. Right now I've got no numbers being my tune is kind of fudged till I get my fooler back on line again.