Mopar1973Man

I would start be visiting each error code and do the diagnostics. Also you might try clear the codes with a code reader (not disconnecting the battery this does nothing!). If the code returns than you need to do each diagnostics for each code. This will isolate wiring issues as well.

Yeah it's time for a cab change. Wow! That's rusted out pretty good.

If you want to verify the IAT use a live data tool and see the actual IAT temp and see if it showing a normal number. Note: Even with a IAT sensor missing it the wait to start light should cycle normal and go off. So this points to a internal ECM problem which could be caused by a bad alternator with high AC noise issues.

I don't think that tool will work on a stock valve. But most aftermarket valves it will work on.

No. It will make things worse. BioDiesel is high cetane and lower in BTU's so you typically end up with lower MPG's. The reduction is based on how high the biodiesel mixture is. 2% typically is very low reduction of MPG being its a majority of petroleum. Now 100% has the lowest MPG numbers as well as BTU ratings. High cetane is only required in the winter time to promote starting in cold climates. The only time high cetane is required other than winter is racing. When you twisting up to 4K RPM's you need a fuel to burn fast enough to keep up. Typically daily drivers never see those conditions. Also Biofuel tends to product more emissions than petroleum based fuels. There is a post by Wild & Free about biodiesel emissions. Low smoke is based on warmer intake temps, smaller injectors and quick spooling turbos like the HY35W. Black smoke is because of fuel droplets that are too big and there isn't enough heat to convert the liquid to vapor. This why the 190*F thermostat is desired more so over the 180*F is the heat to aid in conversion. Remember liquid fuel will NOT burn. Only the vapor can burn. Also there is also a point where too much fuel is injected with too little boost (lack of air vs fuel). This is more or less a need for quick spooling turbo or adding lag to your fuel map to allow the turbo to light. This is where most make mistakes and upgrade turbos and get so big of a turbo that can never light it till they are driving at illegal speeds. Cowboy and Me78569 are working on VGT controller that is stand alone. This would change the game quickly. But again it's not a stock turbo so it would fail the inspection.

One catch to be aware of. I like the looks of the wiring job! But the down side is when it comes time to pull a device out you going to add a lot of extra time to peel it back out of the looms. Don't ask me how I know.

Hmmm... My cheap $8 release tool from NAPA works fine. Matter of fact if you think that is tough try changing a compressor on 2006 Ford Taurus. Changing the flex hoses on a Dodge would be a walk in the park.

I figure I'd let you guys and gals know I've added more information to the tire pressure article. Also more photos of tire profile vs. pressure. More to come when I got a chance. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/35-exterior/354-tire-inflation-formula

Sorry to say but I've lost my faith in USFS fire fighters. I've seen way too many times where they use back burns too much or incorrectly. I've seen where they do more damage than good. I've actually see commander till crew to stand down and watch because it dangerous. Fire fighting is a very dangerous job but if done correctly you can gain control very rapidly. The biggest thing that scare to me death is the lack of water. My own creek that supplies water here is dry up rather quickly. When it does that it no more water for fire fighting here other than what is captured in my pond. That being said its just a matter of time before something happens here. When it does I hope that we are near a water source for fire fighting. Just remember... Salmon River Rural Fire Dept is the Largest Fire District in the State of Idaho. We are the 5th largest fire district in the Nation. 67 Road miles long and 20 miles wide for the main area but now cover all the side roads with the same 10 miles on either side or 20 mile width.

Dripley is another. I called him and looking for a phone call back. Yabbadoo I got a phone call from and she has been busy and will be returning back to the site soon. MnTom I'm not sure about no contact has occurred. http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/ Yankneck696 I know is still above ground and functional but dealing with family issues (father pasted away) and dealing with battle over the will the last I heard. https://www.facebook.com/ed.grafton.5 Rancherman no contact.

Give them a call maybe they can tell you a part number so you can order one or source it out.

Wow... and I live in the rust belt too. But I've got nothing that bad.

The early series the unit bearing and the rotor came out together. Then you had to press all the stud out to remove the rotor. The later series like Ronman says you just remove caliper and caliper bracket and the rotor slides off the studs.

There is a rebuild kit for the hydrobooster from One Eye Jack's... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php

I'm going to bet your blower motor has bad bearings. I ran mine till it start to squeak. What was strange is the motor ran fine but had a mild squeak that comes and goes. Then when you pull it out the motor shaft is stiff as hell. Don't spin very good at all. Hence there is a increase in amperage draw to muscle the blower around, also why the plug would be getting heat damage.

Now it should be a walk in the park now.

Knowing Hex has been a firefighter once before he understand the difference from a spectator to front line fighting a fire. Form a spectator view its sad to see homes lost, forest burned out and things altered for long time to come. Now being on the front line and struggling to alter this monster path of destruction is a hard battle. I've had my fair share of up close and personal fire fights. I'm as ready as I possibly can be. But don't get me wrong I'm still freaked out.

Sorry... Everything leaks eventually. Even mine leaks now. But a lighter color like Machine Gray, Cummins Red, might make it easier to see later on.

The common answer typically it to force the auto to behave like a manual. When you set lock up in 2nd gear it will continue to shift normally up. But remain locked on the torque converter. This provides better hold back power of the transmission for travelling grades. The other thing is once locked the transmission can't down shift. This can be a bonus too for slick conditions by getting the truck to shift to a high gear and allowing the RPM's to fall low now. Torque is reduced. This is a common trick for manual transmissions but automatic in stock form will tend to down shift and up shift causing possible wheel spin on ice.

I would of considered a different color for the block. Black is impossible to spot leaks on. I will admit it looks nice and clean now. Ready for installing back into the truck.

Anywhere in the cab you wish. Mine is located behind the knee bolster.

Check your toe measurements. As for the center that can be adjusted from the drag link.

Looking at a relay... 85 is to body ground 86 is to the keyed ignition fuse of the cab fuse panel. Get a fuse tap for this. 30 is from the #1 terminal of the strip. 87a is back to the #2 terminal of the strip.

My previous set of tires did that at the end of their life span. I wasn't too worried knowing I'm going to replace them. As my new tire they are wearing straight and true. So I'm not sure even why my previous tires did that too. Same problem strange pull and outside shoulder lugs wore down in a weird pattern.