Mopar1973Man

Absolutely. Brake bleeding will not cause ABS light issues. A failed speed sensors will set the lights.

"Dealer Warranty" back in 2004 at 50k miles. Before then it was "Dealer Warranty" lift pump at 48k miles. So unknown of the source or if it was a new pump or what. Still going strong. Even if it died today just short of 200k miles I still would not cry. 11 years and 195k miles (current stats) I'm very satisfied with the out come.

You could... Then see if the code comes back if it does after a short drive of 5-10 miles then you know the code is real. Then you'll need to resolve it by running the diagnostics.

I say its time to roll that block over and inspect the bearings and look at the pistons. It is a weird knock. Think of it this way at least you be fixing the problem before it get damaging.

As far as I know the AirDog 100 and AirDog 150 still use spring and check ball. Where all the Raptor series and the AirDog 165 uses a adjustable regulator. Even FASS 100 and FASS 150 kept the spring and check ball design as far as I know. More or less cap off the mouth of the turbo any way you can and pressurize the system with compressed air in the range of 10-20 PSI. Like my cap only holds up to about 10 PSI and started to slide off the lip of the turbo. But with a bottle of soap water solution you can spray down all the fittings, sensors, gaskets, etc. looking for bubbles. For simple gauges that are rock solid do the ISSPro EV series mechanical gauges. If you don't mind spending some money and design time get the EV2's electrics. Thoses are nice but remember you need to deal with remote mounting the pressure sensors away from the water hammer source of the VP44. Both my sensors are mounted on the fender and has over 5 foot of tubing in between the engine and the sensor for protection. Personally I'm not exactly fond of Edge CTS or CS systems. Come back to the old adage "Don't put all your eggs in one basket." Well you put your tuner, gauges and other things in one basket so when it fails you lose everything and pay even more for the replacement each time. Modular design is best so if you lose a EGT gauge just replace one gauge for $100 bucks instead of entire tuner for $1,100.

That's sure a weird. I didn't know that. Wow... Cummins/Dodge could of done a better job.

As of OBDII too you could use a OBDLink LX to read codes or erase codes. Cheaper than a ScanGauge II and much easier to use.

Sorry I can't answer that question because of damage to my pump I've got I can freely move the cam ring or the timing piston. (P0216 code) The bearing supports the cage end of the shaft for the roller and shoes. The tip of the pump is inserted into the middle of the roller and shoes. The vane pump is suppose to increase the pressure inside the pump but I can't find any specification of what the pressure is inside the pump. Then also remember the VP44 is the same speed as the cam or 1/2 the speed of thee crank. so idle of 850 RPM's is a pump speed of 425 RPM's. Early version pumps use a rubber disk in here that could be damaged by low fuel pressure which cause it to tear or break. So Bosch rebuilder automatically voided warranty after finding a broken / tore diaphragm. So from my pump the 027 Rev pumps are steel plate so it really hard to tear / break that. There is 4 ways to kill a VP44... Dirty Power (AC noise from the alternator) Low Fuel pressure (Less than 14 PSI) Poor Filtration Poor Fuel Lubricity (> 450 HFRR Score) You might want to pull the regulator and check it for damage or wear. If the regulator is hanging up or sticking then I can see why the pressure is falling. I never did like the adjustable fuel pressure Raptors or AirDog's. The old school spring and check ball work 1,000 times better.

Exactly. The shoe rides against the piston inn the pump the rollers follow the cam ring.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor Did you have any tachometer issues? Any crank or cam sensor codes too?

No. For a quality fan clutch designed for a Cummins engine. Cheap autozone clutches are not designed correctly hence the weird constant lockup. Like I said above the last one I purchased for a friend was $111 bucks for his 1992 Dodge Cummins. NAPA fan clutch. A Cummins clutch would be even more. As for flex fans won't work nor will electric fans. Not enough CFM of air movement.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/146-p0112-intake-air-temp-sensor-voltage-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/216-p1475-auxiliary-5-volt-output-too-high Only ground you got to clean is the battery cable. All other body grounds are for accessories (lights, horn, etc.) The ECM, PCM and VP44 are only grounded to the battery cable. 2002 MAP sensors are no longer made and everyone uses the 2001 MAP sensor in place of with a adapter harness but before you do this follow the diagnostics links above.

Sound like someone needs to do a porting write up for exhaust manifolds.

Electric windows have a circuit breaker in the fuse panel on the driver's side of the dash. Fan motor could be wore out or siezed. Blown fuse. Most likely under the hood in the PDC. Airbag light is most likely the clockspring in the steering column... Small donation to the site will get you too... The wiring diagram. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/files/file/65-1997-dodge-ram-wiring-diagramszip/

The only thing I would add that I don't see in the signature is head studs.

Correction. Rear sensor goes to the ABS module.

You should have price of $70 to $100 for a fan clutch.

Just replace the fan clutch. Nothing else can be done to fix it.

Come on gang post up a picture of who you are. Might be a good time to update your avatar and profile. Come on join in the fun!

Your welcome JAG1. Make sure to save your pennies and bring your next toy to install. You might want to look right here in the forum. If everyone put a marker in the forum map we would have people all across America like us...

My Harbor Freight chop saw... What do you expect???

That darn JAG1... It's true. I did do the job for nothing. I laid over his engine for about 2 hours drinking his beer and installing his injection pump. Even though JAG1 picks up a bolt asking what's this for? Then proceeds to drop it down the intercooler tube. Well I did have a nice set of mats awhile back but I got a fire call one day and forgot one of the mats was on the canopy so it blew away on the highway. Never found it. So I took a chuck of indoor / outdoor carpet and chopped it up and tossed it in for the time being. NO BIGGY, next time I would seen something I would of replaced them. But NOOOO... JAG1 is just too picky didn't like my home brew floor mats. As for the milkshakes it did turn into a minor battle at the casher which I told him I would take care of it. NOOOOO... JAG1 wasn't going to back down and neither was I. Still in all I enjoyed the time he was here and hope soon he comes back again. Oh look out... MoparMom is going to get you next... <- JAG1 Mopar1973Man ->

This is what pumps the fuel up to a minimum of 4,500 PSI The 3 pins are actually the pistons. All three piston pump at the same time from the roller and shoes that follow the cam gear. Yes. But the cooling is done through the fuel not the cover lid. You notice the circuit board is in direct contact with the aluminum housing. So the fuel is the cooling agent. This why the minimum for 14 PSI became the normal now because this insures the overflow valve is open instantly when the truck is started. Ok. I really don't have a good picture for this so I'll just type it. The PSG commands timing advancement. It open a solenoid valve to allow fuel pressure from the vane pump to push the timing piston advance. This in turns the cam gear in the housing which now advanced the lobes that the roller and shoes pump the fuel. The tone wheel can sense if the timing actually advanced or not (P0216). Now as for how much I wanted to measure the stroke of the piston and degree change of the cam ring. But the pump I have is P0216 pump. The timing piston is so bad that in cold temperatures you physically can't move the piston. The only way I can get it to move is to heat the pump body with a propane torch and even then its still hard. I wanted to fix the timing piston with a file and debur it but the timing piston is harden steel and tool file will not even scratch it. So I'm sorry I can't answer the degree span. As for the timing section. Here is the cam ring and the timing piston. The timing piston slides in the housing twisting the came ring advanced or retard. Now you see the roller and shoes that follow the cam ring. So the tip of the rotor assembly fits down in the middle of the 3 shoes and the pistons line up with the shoes. Here is the fuel pump and distributor disassembled. The infamous "Cracked Diaphragm" which doesn't exist in the Rev 027 pumps. This is again a harden steel plate covered with plastic to hold the o-ring. This will not crack. As you can see anyone could actually rebuild there own pumps if they wanted too. There is nothing really all that difficult to doing the mechanical part of the pump. The programming and calibration on a Bosch 815 test stand that is the magic that no one can do... Just to let you know... It's Cummins. Not Cummings.

If it was me I would been in the collector of the manifold like in your second pick.

No. MoparMom bought the 2 doves. JAG1 made the cross that they hang on. Orignally MoparMom wanted to hang it on a string in the living room on the stone fireplace. But the doves are so frail hat they need to be mounted to a wood backing so MoparMom wanted a nice wooden cross to hang them on. So JAG1 created the cross while he was here. That's a really good carpenter. He knows his stuff.