Mopar1973Man

Working on it. I got to figure out what has been altered in the software since the update.

It shows you have permission to have 1 line of signature. But when I check your account its indeed missing the tab for signature. I think this problem stem back from my last update to the software. Give me a bit of time I'll have to dig to the bottom of this.

I've been wait for the owner it get the funds and get the parts which I now have all them.

Stock engine is good for 35-40 PSI of boost before head work or studs are required. Stock turbo on the other hand are limited to 30-32 PSI for HY35 and 35 PSI for HX35. As for the square cm number that is the square cm of the exhaust opening to the turbine. Slower open means less lag but more back pressure and higher EGT's. Larger opening is has more lag, less EGT's and back pressure. I've seen several documented cases of Cummins ISB engine making at round 100 PSI of boost and holding together. Lots of mods required to get there though... Need really deep pockets. No problem. Sometimes I don't see the humor in post I take thing to literal. Hard to see human expression in words at times. As for trade secrets I'm trying to kill the secret part. I hate that...

Follow the mouse pointer.. Click your name then select settings. Then click the signature tab.

Well I do have a guest house but I don't think you would want to stay there. I get up early to get work done before the heat of the day so to get to the shop you have to pass through the guest house. Like next week I've got a Subaru to install valve cover gaskets and a A/C compressor. Bed and breakfast? Oh, heck no... MoparMom might cook breakfast for you... Soap on a rope? That's why the RV slot... Park your own house on wheels. I'll supply power, water and even RV dump.

No comment...

I bet that runs so much better with the new exhaust system in it. Man... That a lot of junk hanging on the back of a engine. I'm reminded of the pass every time we move forward. I remember the days of catalytic converters and the start of electronic vehicles. It was a mess back in the 80's. Here we are again with diesel vehicles going through the same phase of DPF and EGR just like back in the 80's. Eventually this will be sorted out.

My legal name is Michael S. Nelson... As for my background I've got a degree is computer and electronic science from ITT Tech, Van Nuys CA. https://www.linkedin.com/in/mopar1973man As for diesel knowledge I've never been to any school or anything I just learned on my own. I'm NOT ASE certified. Thank Gawd... As for knowledge I keep studying every time I hit the wall with a issue or problem. If there is a unknown I look for answers. Like look back at P7100 pump or VE pumps there is documents every where on how to work on them. But VP44 is a big hidden mystery don't touch it your not allowed. BS! I own this vehicle I want to know more. If you ever show up here I would be able to show you all the electronic books on Bosch stuff and service manuals I got. There is so much data here on one machine about Cummins Diesels.

Not true. ECM is setup for certain amount of defuel till boost pressure rises. The ECM has its own fuel map of how much fuel is allowed at X amount of boost. So this where a module changes things now at least Edge there is 3 defuel modes (sublevels 1-3) and 2 power modes (sublevels 4-5). Being the module is wire tapped you can override the ECM commands. Part of it is done on the CAN Bus connector and the other part is done on the wire tap. From what Ed told me the module rewrites the data in the stream and gives it a high priority which wipes out the previous data. Higher the pop pressure better the atomization but retards timing. Lower the pop pressure more timing advancement but atomization is weaker. I'm assuming your talking about Blue Chip box? Not many people use them. As for adjustments and drivablity I couldn't tell you. I know they cost much more that Edge or common name module. Like Smarty is not a good choice for 24V because there is no boost to fuel control. Quadzilla and Edge are both choices for boost to fuel control. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/fms_box.html Much nicer product... For less... https://edgeproducts.com/products/01-02-dodge-5-9l-cummins-juice-w-attitude-cts2-31501/ Simpler product. https://edgeproducts.com/products/2001-2002-dodge-24-v-comp-5-9l--30301/ Like Edge EZ isn't a good choice because there again no boost to fuel management.

My version. After 5 foot of air brake line it enters the bottom of the bracket on a push to connect fitting. Then the sender is on top. This give distance from the water hammer pulses and a easy place for pressure testing of the sender is failing. No digging deep in the engine for pressure testing. Same push lock tee. I've added a brass elbow, needle valve, snubber then goes to push to connect fitting and 1/8" air brake line.

Why no for sale here in the classified ads? Well if you two would finish your VGT turbo controllers...

Bring your RV if you got one. There is open RV slot in my front yard. If not here is a excellent motel just down the road 3/4 of mile.

G115 actually connects to the passenger side battery cable. Look at the passenger side cable there is a smaller cable off the post with a clip connector and it will run into the loom near the PCM. This is the main ground for those devices. Again it does not attach to body. Now the main cable does indeed attach to the block and the body. Here is the G115 connector. Here is the path alone the orifice tube into the loom for G115.

Power adjust and power def? What's the price?

Like oxygen sensors I typically get the wire unplugged first thing then work on removing the sensor from the pipe. I did it this way in hopes of preventing the wiring from be damaged.

Seriously you might want to create a write up of this... I know it cost more than a boost elbow but to get on/off switching of the wastegate would bee awesome for anyone.

... and you didn't stop in... Shame on you!

Can you post the parts you used and where you got them. Also show what you did to modify the regulator. I'm seriously curious about this one.

No. ECM, PCM and VP44 have no body connection. Take a look at the wiring diagram. G115 is the actual battery cable on the passenger side. As for the block ground that is lift pump and fuel heater hidden behind the starter. Again a secondary system it will use body ground but primary system like all the computers they use the actual battery cable. Now take notice to the fuel pump relay in the upper right corner it uses a body ground G102 and it states its location (left side fender shield).

Shhhh! Not so loud! I don't want them to figure out they were excluded in the picture.

No don't do that. Stock APPS have been pre-set and don't have any value of voltage that you can really test for. But you can take a analog volt mater and pan the scale of the APPS sensor looking for a sudden drop or surge in voltage. As for Grounds to worry about is the battery cables. That's it. The other body grounds are just secondary stuff. Lights, horn, etc. The ECM, PCM and VP44 are all ground to the battery directly and don't have any body ground connection.

Fan bearings are wasted and piled up carbon brushes in n the bottom. Just replace it. Mine failed the same death. Now JAG1 went through all the trouble of trying to bring it back from the dead and there is just no way to fix those blower motors. The only thing I can suggest is to cut you OEM lead as close to the motor. The new motor will not have the plug.

NAPA thermostats are safe. Cummins are safe but pricey. Chain Stores like Autozone are NOT safe. Typically most have problems with them.

Personally I don't like in tank screens. So if you lost that no biggy. But you can buy a new fuel level sender from a Dodge dealer. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/236-fuel-gauge-replacement-sender