Mopar1973Man

More places to check out. http://cppdiesel.com/ http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ A +75 HP is a good boost in power. Most still have fairly good MPG's numbers with +75 injectors.

Hopefully you didn't mess up the stereo install and havee a wirin problem with the CCD network.

You might look back at post #3...

Did I miss something? Testing 1. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DRBIII® scan tool, check for ECM and PCM DTCs. Determine if DTC is set by ECM or PCM. If DTC is set by ECM, go to next step. If DTC is not set by ECM, go to step 7 . 2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS sensor harness connector. APPS is located on bracket, just above fuel injection pump. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block (ground) and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS harness connector. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 4.5 volts or less, go to step 6 . 3. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Check for continuity between terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. If continuity exists, repair short between Dark Blue/White and Black/Yellow wires. The Black/Yellow wire is the sensor ground circuit. 4. Ensure APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check for continuity between terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) and terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. If continuity exists, repair short between Black/Yellow and Light Blue/Black wires. 5. Ensure APPS and ECM connectors are still disconnected. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Dark Blue/White wire. 6. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check Dark Blue/White wire for continuity between terminal No. 5 on APPS harness connector and terminal No. 31 on ECM harness connector. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Dark Blue/White wire. If continuity exists, replace and program the ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. 7. Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM harness connectors. PCM is located at passenger's side rear corner of engine compartment. Check for continuity between ground and terminal A23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM harness connector (APPS circuit). If continuity does not exist, go to step 9 . If continuity exists, go to next step. 8. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check for continuity between ground and terminal A23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM harness connector (APPS circuit). If continuity does not exist, test is complete. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Orange/Dark Blue wire. 9. Ensure PCM harness connectors are still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Check for circuit). If continuity does not exist, go to next step. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Orange/Dark Blue wire. 10. Check Orange/Dark Blue wire for continuity between terminal No. 5 on APPS harness connector and terminal No. 31 on ECM harness connector. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Orange/Dark Blue wire. If continuity exists, go to next step. 11. Reconnect ECM harness connector. Ensure PCM harness connectors are still disconnected. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between ground and terminal A23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM harness connector (APPS circuit). If voltage is greater than 0.4 volt, test is complete. If voltage is 0.4 volt or less, go to next step. 12. Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS harness connector. Check for continuity between ground and terminal A23 (Orange/Dark Blue wire) on PCM harness connector (APPS circuit). If continuity does not exist, replace APPS. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. If continuity exists, replace and program the ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article.

0 to 5 ohms is normal. Now probe from one side to ground all connection should show infinite ohms in others words there is no wires shorted to ground. Make sure to have both ends (ECM and APPS) unhooked.

I'm going to modify that one for MoparMom... I've got most of that stuff in the basement.

Yeah but you do it for traction of the sandy beaches...

True but some haven't had that luck either. Depends on how much change. You can shift a key up or down from stamped.

I'll pull your phone number from on record and give you a jingle sometime...

Time to update to a new DVM (Digital Volt Meter). Alternator AC power is variable AC frequency that changes with RPM. So you can't buy a cheap hardware store meter for household 60 Hz. It has to be able to measure variable frequency. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGaHaIXZioA

Ummm.. Just wrong...

California 55 MPH towing law.

Whoa! You can't mix keys. The key that is calibrated to the pump has to stay with the pump. Now using the number stamped on the body you could order a another matching key. But I can't see the key being taller.

Crank sensors tend to fail after they get hot and start doing weird things. Crank sensors don't create voltage but a frequency sine wave that the ECM counts for RPM (pulses per second).

Like down at work we've got a Innova handheld code reader that can read ABS errors and tell you which sensor is screwed up. Like this is a bit newer version than ours... http://www.innova.com/en-US/Product/Detail/3120d

Keyway are all interchangeable. But do the VP44 have the right key in the shaft? It should be stamped with a number on the body of the pump and the number on the key should match. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/314-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-key-part-numbers

BUt if you drop back to 3rd Gear (out of OverDrive) then you gain it back but back to the same problem of 4.10 gears.

MoparMom is the same way. Cooking her way. I'm the nut that comes along with a different blend of spices and such to modify the cooking a bit more.

Did a search and the only thing I can find is a simple post back in 2010. Long time ago.

Uhhh What?

Old Fluke 75 DVM...

I've got old Mopar Experience... I'll talk with my Boss Lindy about your idea of setup and see what he's got to say. He's a real pro at setting up the old school muscle.

I would check against a mechaincal boost gauge to verify.

War Eagle some day I'm going to have to call you when I'm down in the Boise area and take a peek at your setup.

Actually anything electronic right down to your cell phone plugged into the power point charging, GPS hanging off the windshield, to maybe you stereo in your dash. So anything electronic hooked up to the electrical system of the truck can and will be affected by the AC noise produced by bad diodes.