Mopar1973Man

I'll have to dig out the owners manual again and take a peek at the Schedule B. But I'm not going to change every 3k that's plain nuts. Even the 1996 is set for 6k miles for V8 gasser. I was of the mind set of changing every 3k on the gasser when I first got it but then started to realize the oil was still rather clean. So I read the manual at switched to 6k and it just barely darkens by then. That's a 6 quart system. Now my Cummins is a 12 quart system (mine is plus one from the extra filter) and I would have to change at 3k... Not happening. Funny part is both trucks get used around here doing trailer hauling and wood hauling too.

I got a phone call from a Michael West in the McCall, Idaho area. He had question about a high idle box he had in his truck. It looks like one of the older one that a gent made over in Cummins Forum. (Can't remember the name). But we had a nice long talk about Cummins Diesels and different things. He's got a beautiful 2001 Dodge Cummins White short bed with 35" tires. Very clean. But now he wants to get into the economy mode and longevity part. So I gave him the quick lesson on diesel and tuning and how it works. Mike doesn't own a computer but he does have a smart phone. So his limited on abilities on the site hopefully he creates a account to hang out. Mike did say he'll be coming back to have me do more work on his truck very soon. I expect him to call me again. On a side note... What is it about Michael's? I'm one, then there is JAG1 (Michael) that spent a week here, now another Michael comes to hang out. No one yell Michael or Mike around here... You never know who might come running...

That's fried for sure. Wow!

20,000 mile oil changes roughly every 3-4 weeks. So at 60 MPH which was CajFlynn average speed that's about 333 hours on the oil. So doing a UOA at 2,500 or 5,000 isn't exactly a requirement. Like myself I run 7-10k miles on oil changes. Owners manual states 7,500 miles for 2nd Gen 24V oil changes.

Return line should be fine factory sized. It's just the supply line that is not big enough. That is a option for most pavement queens. I would just check with local laws ans see if there is any problems with bottom draw tanks being used on highway. There is a reason the fuel is supplied out of the top for safety reasons. As for me I'm still looking from a distance at the sump idea just worry a bunch about the snagging on debris like tree limbs and logs that I run over. I managed to push a dent in the passenger floor in the back seat years ago from just running over a small log. The other problem I would see for city folks is anyone what to steal your diesel fuel will have a handy drain right there. Just unscrew the fuel line and all the diesel you can carry will drain out. I know I've seen reports of fuel thieves using cordless drills and pop a hole in the tank and drain it out.

If it was me. I would change at least the engine oil and fuel filter before starting up. Then change the rest of the fluid once you get home. 58,408 miles as Google converts... That truck is very very low in miles.

Ok... So what class do you have to be in to worry about oil analysis and what class do you have to be in to not worry about it like Cajflynn?

Thanks JAG1... Now everyone eat your heart out...

Like myself I'm a long distance from everything so every time I fire up it's not a 3-5 mile trip to the store but more like 70-120 miles trip to the store. Like now working from home when 6pm rolls around its a 40 mile round trip to New Meadows for my parts when I do have a parts order. So I'm not the typical driver myself. This year I won't be going into the back country much at all for firewood. So I'll have mostly highway miles.

Mine is odd... The tank band is under the carrier bearing bracket.

Like down at Lindy's shop he usually grabbed the Windex bottle because it would foam right up on a leaking fitting, seal or connection. I've seen sniffers used but never per say used one myself. I typically used UV dye with a black light and soap & water typically. I usually base my recharging on the fact if the system has pressure or not. If there is existing pressure then typically I would just top it off and let the customer go with the notice that the system is leaking and should be repair when fund and time are available. But if the system is dry without pressure I will not charge the system not knowing if we have a severe leak or what. Then I typically will ask the owner if they would want it fixed.

That's my problem. I would have to take the canopy off first. Then clear the bed out. The unhook all the wiring and tail lights. Then pull the bed. Dropping the two tank bands (I drop the carrier bearing because of the front band is under it.), 1 electrical connection, 3 hoses and 1 fill hose and vent. Tank is on the floor. Notes If you want to get it done easier. Invite friends over to drink beer and get him to drop the tank for you.

You might have to go into beekeeping as well. Between Hex0rz and LiveOak I'm sure you can get some good information on bee keeping.

I tend to agree with Bill (Wild & Free) slow leaks and detecting them is a PITA at times. I fought that battle too on my truck where the freon would last just long enough for a summer and be dead. But with some of the knowledge I've learned in the years there is way of improving detection. UV dyes, Freon sniffers, Soap & water, etc. Just have to having the patience to do the work and get it done. Like the Chevy Blazer above has had a slow leak for many years I find got the owner to buy a seal kit and allow me to re-seal it. After leaving it sit on a vacuum all night and seeing the gauge still where I left it last night I was happy to fill it back up in the morning with freon. In A/C work a job well done you shouldn't see the custom again.

I'm not saying it not possible to run taller tires but most people don't want to beef up the rest of the suspension and front end to handle the geometry changes. But thank you for the comment...

Well the original VP44 had several weak points. Brass timing piston sleeve, diaphragm issues, etc. With the 027 Rev pumps it should last a very long time.

Ok... Nothing you need a shop for. For tires just take your hands and run them over the face of the tread feeling for uneven tread face. Usually you can see cupping occur as a spot wore lower in one spot. Like my last set of tire were cupping on the inside edge some and visual you could see the little cups. For bearing just jack up each tire and the grab from the top and the bottom. Try rocking the tire. If the tire moves the bearings are wore. Should be zero movement. Driveshaft I suggest removal. Once removed and tension off the u-joints you can feel how loose the joints are. Also then you can check the driveshaft carrier bearing for issues as well. Rotors are easy too jack up a axle and stand a pointed object up with the point near the edge of the rotor. Now slowly rotate the tire and see if the rotor wanders in/out much. Also do it for the wheels to. If the wheels wander in and out you might check and see if the wheel was seated completely before tightening. I'll be doing all these as soon as I get rid of the Chevy Blazer in my shop today.

I sit here and read this thread and then think to myself about CajFlynn with his 1.3 Million mile Cummins that use just Chevron Delo 15W-40, Fleetguard oil filters and a BHAF. Never did any oil testing. Just changed oil every 20k miles. Day in and day out driven back and forth across the country. Personally speaking... If you you super worried and got deep pockets go for it. Pay the price and do the testing I will agree with AH64ID it best to get a test with TBN numbers. But if you like 99% of the people they just change oil and keep driving for well over 500k miles without much issues.

Like myself I pick up the tools because there is no one around to do A/C work. So now I make a bit of income from doing A/C work.

Sad part is you would be better off changing diff gears than increasing tire sizes but I know it's expensive. The problem is the front end is marginal at best for stock 31 inch tires. As you go up in tire diameter you changing the leverage forces on the front end. 285's is about as far as you want to go in tire size. Still problematic but if you get a set of 17" or 16" wheels stock would be best. It get worse with suspension lifts and other modifications. Buddy of mind showed up with a 1999 Dodge Ram with a 3 inch leveling kit and other suspension mods which are costing him another $2,800 to replace steering box, ball joints, tie rods, etc. Truck has barely 130k on the clock.

Larger wheels and tires does change the geometry of the front end putting more stress on steering parts and suspension parts. I would just get a quality set of tie rod ends and replace them. As for me and running under sized tire and wheels I'm still running OEM tie rod ends yet. Still tight. I've only changed ball joint and a track bar.

I like to hold a vacuum on a system for extended period of time to allow all moisture to boil out to a vapor and allow the vacuum pump to vent it out. That's why I don't really like the compressed air type because most air compressors could keep up for over 15-20 minutes of solid pumping. Where a electric pump can withstand 15-20 minutes without even slowing down.

Wild.... How that one piston got hot and rolled over like it did. That is wild. Like how feed a turbo a hose clamp will do damage... How another member allowed his Cummins to run out of oil. #6 was pounding again the valves.

I've pull my fuel tank 2 times already and it really easy to just drop the tank. I pump the tank dry into 5 gallon buckets. Then loosen the bands till nearly ready to drop. At that point I unscrew the sender collar and let the sender stand up out of the tank so when I drop the tank the sender is coming out. Now you can remove the fuel lines without breaking the fuel lines or clip which are nearly impossible to release when packed with mud and dirt in confined space between the bed.

http://m.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-61245.html I've got the very same vacuum pump but by a different name.