Mopar1973Man

I seriously doubt that any failure will occur. Like anything you never assemble a bearing dry into anything always pre-lube them with assembly grease. The gear lube will wash out the grease in due time. I've done it that way for years and never had a bearing failure yet.

Just need to measure from pin 1 to 3. That is your 5.0 volts. That is correct. Now disconnect both the ECM and the MAP sensor and ohm from end to end. That will validate the wiring to be good. If you get 0-5 ohms your good anything above that is a failed wire. Now while they are disconnected yet. Now ohm from MAP sensor to ground. All 3 should turn out infinite ohms which proves that nothing is shorted to ground. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/146-p0112-intake-air-temp-sensor-voltage-low

Thanks for coming forward. Also let me know if you would like build articles for 3rd Gen's.

You need a OBDII code reader of some sort. Do NOT disconnect the battery for erasing code it does absolutely NOTHING! Most all vendors sell the Timbo's apps... But you can get it directly from Timbo for cheaper typically.

Battery disconnect does nothing. All you need to do is turn your key OFF to reset the computers. Even time you turn the key ON the computers do a fresh reboot. This tells me the ECM does indeed have internal issues and should consider re-flashing the ECM with true stock software and seeing if that fixes it. If not the on-board flash PROM is damaged and not holding data properly.

Time to set the Smarty to HALF POWER...

Come on Joe keep going... 238,000 miles to the Moon.

I called the owner on Saturday and referred her to Alpine Automotive in McCall, ID. Sorry this one is out of my hands I can admit defeat very easy and not ashamed of it either.

Not bad at all. Getting into the 20's with 3rd Gen is a good thing. Congrads!

P0602 is a Smarty thing. Now if the error code comes back while stock then you might want to read over the error code. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/203-p0602-ecm-fueling-calibration

The whole idea was to filter off the people that haven't done anything for over 365 days. This is to find the email account that people let go of create bounced email. Of course since the email account is gone there is no way to get in contact with the person. So to prevent the site from being blacklisted I need a way of filter off the inactive users to a different group so email can flow to the proper people without creating a blacklist issues. So just coming on the site and hanging out in the general conversation area is fine. As long as the account stays active.

Here you go... How to install a Timbo's APPS http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/39-timbos-apps-installing Diagnose your P0122. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low

It still can be a ABS module issue or sensor wiring issues. So Verify your wiring again. If it ohms out correctly then the ABS module is to blame. Also ohm the sensors out and see if they are working properly.

Bingo! Just having the page present on the site as a 3rd Gen Smarty touch now gain search engine power. As for submitting. I submit a sitemap every time there is a post made here on the site. So Google and all search engine are very aware of what is posted and what needs to be indexed. Even the ROBOT.TXT file has a line added to point to the sitemap so any non-standard web spider or bot will know without any doubt there is a sitemap and what they can and cannot crawl. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/robots.txt

So... You can explain how you hid your wiring. How you setup your setting for best operation. But the fact there is a page about Smarty Touch would gain travel here quickly.

The biggest part of electric gauges is to remote mount the senders off the engine. Fuel pressure much so. Boost can be installed on the engine. It's not the vibration that kills the senders its the water hammer pulses that kill the fuel pressure senders. So with what I've got set up I've got roughly 5 foot of tubing for both sender to allow pulsations to fade and fuel pressure has a snubber at the tap source not at the sender. Mechanical gauges are simply the easiest and most durable gauge out there. Electrics are fairly easy to install but come with issues of there own. But being I read hundreds if not thousands of post of gauges and failures I compiled a method of install and went forward. So far gauges are working extremely well and going to get the ISSPro programming software next and set my warning lights for the gauges. Still in all the price is higher but modular design so if a gauge fails I only got to replace 1 gauge.

Here is the correct info on the site. http://whois.icann.org/en/lookup?name=mopar1973man.com

What your get penalized for is the creation date. So you would have to purchase a domain with the exact terms your looking for that is nearly the same age. Other than that you create a domain with no age and search engine automatic place the oldest domain forward. The rule is the older the domain the more stable. So a 1-3 year old domain is likely to fail so they do not get the search engine strength. So you would have to purchase a domain of at least 8 years old with the name you want. So looking through domain auction sites it can geet rather expensive. Oh, just for the record the domain record above is not correct I've moved with the change of the server. So Me78569 was suggesting Cummins1973Man.Com but if I purchase it it will always be 8 years behind so always second rate URL. https://seo-hacker.com/in-seo-domain-age-matters/

Warmed gear lube moves rather well. But of course winter cold is going to be like molasses. So warming up the axle with a few miles in summer warmth and doing a few figure eight will move oil into the ends. Hence why the other method I use is tipping the axle to flood the bearing ends. People tend to forget yes this Idaho be summer temperature here can easily exceed 100*F at my house last years record high was 105*F here.

What needs to happen to improve traffic to the site is to have more 3rd and 4th gen owners creating write ups on how they repair or maintain their trucks. There is very little 3rd Gen articles and there is nothing for 4th gen. So more content more traffic. But since we are lacking modern content we are falling behind. Up here rarely do I get to see a 3rd or 4th gen and most don't live here. Most locals here are still 1st gen and 2nd gen trucks. Like for example Bill (Wild & Free) installed a Smarty Touch why not create an article on to do it. This is a modern device for modern trucks. But... No write up on it. Another one we don't have a write up on is removal of a engine for 24V 2nd Gens. TFaoro would be excellent for doing the write up for complete removal, tear down, etc.

JL Welding called me while I was out this weekend. As for myself I always hand pack fresh bearings with grease. Then I've been known on fluid changes to fill to spilling out and the drive figure eights in a large area to push oil in the bearing. If I'm feeling lazy I'll jack the axle up on one side slightly and fill till full. This gives the tidbit of extra oil to flood the hubs again.

PCM has nothing to do with it. ABS and the Gauge Cluster. AC noise doesn't bother the sensors but it fries the computers like ABS computer or maybe the gauge cluster. But there is the cluster test to check for errors. Hold the trip down turn the key to ON and the CHEC shows in the odometer release the trip pin. This goes back to the same problem of guys replacing VP44's one after another with electronic failures. It stems from a bad alternator cooking the electronics. As for speed signals. The ABS module reads the rear sensor and then transmits the data of CCD netowrk for any device to use. As for speed the PCM does use the speed for cruise control but has no bearing on the cluster. Which the cluster is a stand alone computer than listens for data on its own. I just had a guy call about VP44 that lasted barely 9 months and fried. Then come to find out he's got the tin foil leads, modified APPS grounds, noise filter, etc. I told him to ditch all the junk and then test it out again sure enough the alternator was nearly 0.1 volt AC. Also the torque converter lock/unlock problem returned. So, just because of band-aid for the lock up issues he's now eating the VP44's which is now going to cost him most likely because it wire tapped. So moral is... Make sure you go clean power to your electronics and they will have a long and happy life. Just like buying a quality surge protector for your PC at home.

I do the easy thing. I lay a sprinkler on the ground. Drive over the top of it and pause for several moments and inch forward. Pause for more time and repeat till I get from front bumper to rear bumper. That's the poor man method. As for me now I use the power washer and creeper. I just roll under and get underside cleaned up. But if I got several day of dirt road travel then I wait till a week and then do this on the weekends.

Just for fun I hit a few auction sites to see what a 8-10 year old URL is running. It can range fro about $3,000 to $25,000. My pockets are not that deep.

Actually to answer this about the domain name. Really it would be way to difficult to change name now. Google placement is based on age of the URL name. mopar1973man.com has been running 8 years. So now if I yank that out and replace it with anything we start all over again from the bottom up. So 8 years of struggling again. If I put it side by side still mopar1973man.com will take the hits more than secondary address (already done this as a test) because the secondary URL is so young its going to be way back in the pile. So the only way I could be ahead is purchase a aged URL at a very high cost so I can precede mopar1973man.com with a older URL. But the last I look there isn't many old "Cummins" URLs for sale. Now yes URL does have it place in the search results but at the most you going to get 2 words in the URL for a bonus. That's just nothing. As for keyword ranking Dodge is the top of the pile here on the site. Mopar1973Man had more power than Cummins believe it or not. Just for single keywords. Really the thing that brings people to the site isn't the name. It's the content! Like right now "Klein Bottle Computer" is my highest hitter. No Cummins, not even dodge or anyting. Next is "Quadzilla Adrenaline" still nothing with Dodge or Cummins or anything. How about another strong hitter "NV5600 fluid". So as you can see URL is just a name. Has little to do with searches but not always. The only thing Cummins forum gets for bonus is "Cummins" but if the search is about Dodge or anything else the URL has no power. We can beef up the META Description which has power but again its limited. Still content has better hits.