Mopar1973Man

Yeah I got a a weird one. I had a truck come to the shop with a dead injection pump (P1688 and P1689). It got a new Injection pump and lift pump from Vulcan Performance. After getting it running the WAIT TO START light is stuck ON even while driving. The grid heater are cycling as normal and canceling out either by time or by speed. I've done my AC noise check on the alternator and it was .260 at the highest. So the alternator was replaced and the new one is floating about .040 which is OK. But still got a stuck WAIT TO START. I check all the wiring for loose connection or pinched wires. I even call a local computer expert and they are stumped.

Stock banjo bolt? Or JIC fitting? It either case there might be a failed sealing washer behind the fitting which is leaking.

My first set of gauges was a DiPricol mechanical gauges. That was direct plumbed with just a needle valve to snub it. Then the new set is ISSPro EV2's which are electric and they are remote mounted on the fender to give distance from the water hammer also needle valve and snubbed with a ISSPro snubber stack after the needle valve. The needle valve in this case is just in case the line breaks I can close the fuel supply off.

War Eagle is down around Boise area so I know they do emission testing. But up here I'm still exempt for the time being. I've heard rumors that EPA want to get into the rural areas too. But nothing happened. I got to admit it would be a PITA every year to pull the stealth plate off. I'm sure they look for it.

#1 reason for loss of pressure is a mechanical gauge isolator. I bet even now if you had a direct plumbed and your isolated gauge you find there is a still a pressure error between them.

The only thing that going to happen is get up on the roller. They tie you down. Then the controller will tell you what to do. Typically you get into your highest gear and hold for a second controller will tell you to drop the hammer. You'll run up to near 3k on the tach then let off. I've been to several dyno events with a local Idaho group.

Do your run first then...

Like me I missed the TST box. So it should fuel really well.

One of the few reason I wash the engine off every time I was the truck. I might not have oil leaks per say but if you have enough mud in the wrong place it can do the same thing to.

You going to to see a cut off where the Smarty drops dead at. The low end will look really good but after 20-25 PSI of boost the numbers will flatten out. Because at that point the fuel table ran out and your running solely on injectors.

I grab my modified 5 gallon bucket slip it under the the differential. Unbolt the cover and carefully pry the cover off. Allow the old fluid to drain out. I've always just used a bead of standard silicone around the cover. Now after working for Lindy for nearly a year I tend to like the grey Silicone now more so for the differential covers. Then I grab my 5 gallon bucket of 80w-90 gear lube with bucket pump and fill the differential. I typically cover half the hole with my thumb and pump in another 1-2 pumps and quickly throw the plug back in. I do this so there is plenty of gear lube to flood the bearings on the axles again after draining. As for the Internet myth of over filling causing seal issues. I can answer that. Typically when we see those coming into the shop with leaking axles I can just about bet the differential vent is plugged with mud or grime. When the differential warms up and fluid expands there is no vent so it pushes oil out the seals. So over filling will not cause seal issues.

Holy Cow. I would love to have a set for my truck. Nicely done bumpers!

The old school method.

Counter clockwise turning is normal on the alternator pulley. Even mine slips going clockwise. The problem remains there is coolant and oil going places it really should not be going.

Mostly its driving style mostly. Then driving speed. That's the major factor. Now since fuel prices came down I just set the cruise for 60-65 MPH and roll. No longer working the hyper-miling method I know and my MPG's have dropped. But if I go back to the trick I've learned about stretching the fuel then I can easily hit 20's again.

Well the next best thing to do is get a compression tester and do a compression test and then do a leak down test. This would verify the head gasket by pressurizing the cylinder and the bad cylinder would blow bubbles in the radiator. Compression test would be lower on the bad cylinder.

Stock lines can't flow fuel good enough to keep the pressure up. So it would help to convert over any remaining stock lines. AirDog / Raptor pumps have a low quality as most members will tell you.

Any knocking? Like I was talking to my Boss yesterday and he hydro-locked his wife's car and bent the connecting rod and makes a horrid banging noise when it runs.

@Irhull The only thing I can think why the Boost is off is because the sensor is failed in specs. @TFaoro Any error codes for CCD network?

If there is any coolant pressure. If the engine was still cold then most likely not.

Exactly...

Here just watch the video.

Typically oil pressure is higher pressure than coolant pressure so oil typically goes to the water side. Coolant could be a cause as it ages it becomes corrosive and eats at thing like head gaskets makes them weak.

Basically yes. If you stab the throttle it should ramp up continue to governor rate.

Sounds like a head gasket failure. So far in all the years I've never seen a oil cooler failure yet.