Mopar1973Man

The industrial Cummins ISB didn't have the tiny Carter lift pump from what I've heard. I've heard rumors of the industrial ISB engine have a different fuel supply system with larger plumbing as well. But this is all unconfirmed. Street machine. Now take it out in the wood and push the pump and belt through the sticks, mud, and debris and tell me how long that belt will last? That's the problem with that set up there is nothing to guard the belt from sucking in debris and breaking. I know you live in Idaho and don't stay only to pavement. I highly suggest you keep a electric prime pump. Because life will suck bad when you get a loss of prime and there is no drill around you or your cordless drill battery just went dead. That's a common problem with DTT Assassin pumps there is no electric prime pump. If there is any chance of loss of prime and no drill... Your stuck. This is why the mechanical pump market never really took off because it does have it's own weakness too.

I know I'm not that old (44 years old) but I had to start re-thinking how I do firewood. It was a blessing to get the utility trailer with the ramp gate. No more lifting heavy round of wood it can all be rolled into the trailer and rolled to stack it. My lower back and hips just don't do the heavy lifting any more. Really hard on me to work on little cars that are low to the ground because of my tall frame I tend to hang over at the hips to work. It's nice to be down at Lindy's shop I can at least lift a little car a foot or so up and make it easier to work on. Here at home it rather rough on me.

Depends on your fuel sources... Like my local fuel (Chevron) I know the owner is really fussy about his pump filters. I know he's using water blocking filters as well.

It's about torque curve. Your larger tires move your torque curve. Like I'm near optimal RPM's at 55 MPH but with larger tires your RPM's will be lower and your torque requirements will be higher. So you have to roll faster to get the torque curve. But in the same token your wind drag is increased as you travel faster.

Could you get me a list of them please Russ so I can update my list in the article database. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders

The only reason I don't like the mechanical pumps is... Belt driven and most auto parts stores don't carry that belt. Pump is even farther away from the tank so wear in typically increased on pumps that have to suck a long distance. Fuel Boss relies on the stock lift pump and check valves for priming. So you still stuck buying another stock pump on top too increasing the total cost. Been reports of the front of the oil pan leaking more so from vibration of the pump and requirement of torquing the bolts more.

AH64ID Sounds like you got a tank of fuel from over in Ontario if I'm not mistaken? I can't remember the B level Oregon mandated. Well anyways the biodiesel is more prone to separate from the petroleum part and the bio settles to the bottom like old bacon grease. Typically solidifies sooner that petroleum diesel.

I see you already have a account on the article database just blast it into a spot in the 12V interior stuff. Thanks!

Are you willing to do a write up on how you did it all and what you used?

More pictures...

I can see that... Clunkin' and noises but again it should not create a tire wear issue.

Man some days I'm glad I don't have TV anymore...

Nothing but the same old green fuel and aluminium bottom looking back at me. The pics are of my filters at 30k miles. Like I said I'm fussy about where I get fuel at. No black scum or anything.

Simple. What Bill is referring to is the rubber bushing in the a-arms of the 2WD trucks that as they wear out the alignment is lost over time. Where with 4WD truck we don't have all the rubber in the suspension like 2WD it mostly a solid axle with ball joints. There is the control arms but even mine appear in very good shape yet.

For safety sake test your alternator for AC noise output. That is the main reason for electrical failures on our truck is a bad alternator diode feeding AC ripple to sensitive electronics.

For us the mechanical lift pump had to be dropped because they could not provide the needed volume at higher RPM's. http://www.torkteknology.com/news/5/Technical-Article-Number-One%252d-The-Cummins-Lift-Pump.html

No. The ECM is a ON or OFF state typically. The only time its a modulated state is during cranking which a rapid ON to OFF state at a 50% duty cycle. This gives the reduced fuel pressure for the start up. So the other reason the ECM controls the the lift pump is crash safety. Say you involved in a accident knock out. If the lift pump is wired to just a key ON then the fuel pump could be fuelling a fire that might kill you. Where with the ECM in control the ECM sees no tach signal and shuts down both VP44 and the lift pump for safety. Kind of like the old 12 valves once the engine died the mechanical lift pump stopped too.

To give it more focus... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/classifieds/item/32-59-cr-smarty-jr-pod/

I wasn't impressed with the idea of any module being mounted under the hood like Edge EZ, Edge Juice or Quadzilla. Not a weather friendly spot to be.

Also counter productive ot the MPG fooler. Being the fooler uses temperature to allow the ECM to retard timing.

Yeah common on 2WD truck but exempt on 4WD trucks.

I'm curious what you going to do with the hollow space inside the box? I can tell you want a console for airbag controls and other things. I'm curious of what you got up your sleeve.

Ok. I want to jump in here too. I'm also with the feathering of the inside of the tires. Now I did the beer can alignment and roughly measured about 1/8" toe in. Basically I jacked up the front axle and using 2 short drywall screws I barely start them in a thick lug of the tread. So now at a straight forward you measure. Then you rotate the screw to point straight back and measure. I get the 1/8" more. That doesn't seem bad. But the feather seems stronger on the driver side.

I'm not exactly sure about the Special X pumps but I know the "HotRod" pump are modified internally for advanced timing so you can't use any programmer or module on them. So when they talk about modified pumps with more power and economy typically that means as a standalone. We you start stacking more timing it might become a bad thing. Hence why most will suggest stay with a stock pump that allows you your choice of module or programmer.

My personal view is they are too expensive for what you could buy at CPP Diesel, Vulcan Performance (Industrial Injection) or even DAP (Midwest Injection). These three vendors all sell pump right at $1,100 where for the same then with BC its $1,800 with new PSG like the other three vendors.