Mopar1973Man

Bill. So how about things like breads made from wheat?

It's a absolute pressure sensor. So it can detect changes in the elevation. It's a typical 0 to 5 volt sensor like all the others. The 98.5 to 02 sensors are not OBDII friendly they do have a offset voltage so they tend to display weird values like mine shows 28.6 PSIa at idle or roughly 14.3 PSI of boost.

ScanGauge II is a very helpful tool in watching MPG numbers in real time. Speed (MPH) / Flow (GPH) = MPG

Yes. You need a boost fooler and a fuelling module that can calculate a fuel table beyond the stock 20-22 PSI. So you going to need a Edge or Quadzilla to make the best use of those injectors.

Somewhere someone posted a link of a source for alternator diodes but its disappeared into the black hole call a database could be on CF or here.

I've got a jar of coconut oil in the cabinet in the kitchen we picked up but wasn't sure what we could use it for. I guess I'll have MoparMom bail in and sub it for the normal cooking oils.

Yeah... These band clamps will seal up minor differences in slip on pipes.

Weird. I can't do the 65 MPH at those numbers. Even at 60 MPH I drop to about 19-20 MPG. 3.55 Gear. 5 speed manual trans. Wheels and Tires only weight mere 62 pounds. The 235's are 1.1 inches narrower and 0.04 inches taller (or 1 rev/mile more). 45 MPH = 27-32 MPG 55 MPH = 20-23 MPG 65 MPH = 16-19 MPG 75 MPH = 13-15 MPG (Rare to do since I got to be on a interstate and there is none up here).

Wonder how I'm so lucky? Both truck are intact yet.

The industrial Cummins ISB didn't have the tiny Carter lift pump from what I've heard. I've heard rumors of the industrial ISB engine have a different fuel supply system with larger plumbing as well. But this is all unconfirmed. Street machine. Now take it out in the wood and push the pump and belt through the sticks, mud, and debris and tell me how long that belt will last? That's the problem with that set up there is nothing to guard the belt from sucking in debris and breaking. I know you live in Idaho and don't stay only to pavement. I highly suggest you keep a electric prime pump. Because life will suck bad when you get a loss of prime and there is no drill around you or your cordless drill battery just went dead. That's a common problem with DTT Assassin pumps there is no electric prime pump. If there is any chance of loss of prime and no drill... Your stuck. This is why the mechanical pump market never really took off because it does have it's own weakness too.

I know I'm not that old (44 years old) but I had to start re-thinking how I do firewood. It was a blessing to get the utility trailer with the ramp gate. No more lifting heavy round of wood it can all be rolled into the trailer and rolled to stack it. My lower back and hips just don't do the heavy lifting any more. Really hard on me to work on little cars that are low to the ground because of my tall frame I tend to hang over at the hips to work. It's nice to be down at Lindy's shop I can at least lift a little car a foot or so up and make it easier to work on. Here at home it rather rough on me.

Depends on your fuel sources... Like my local fuel (Chevron) I know the owner is really fussy about his pump filters. I know he's using water blocking filters as well.

It's about torque curve. Your larger tires move your torque curve. Like I'm near optimal RPM's at 55 MPH but with larger tires your RPM's will be lower and your torque requirements will be higher. So you have to roll faster to get the torque curve. But in the same token your wind drag is increased as you travel faster.

Could you get me a list of them please Russ so I can update my list in the article database. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders

The only reason I don't like the mechanical pumps is... Belt driven and most auto parts stores don't carry that belt. Pump is even farther away from the tank so wear in typically increased on pumps that have to suck a long distance. Fuel Boss relies on the stock lift pump and check valves for priming. So you still stuck buying another stock pump on top too increasing the total cost. Been reports of the front of the oil pan leaking more so from vibration of the pump and requirement of torquing the bolts more.

AH64ID Sounds like you got a tank of fuel from over in Ontario if I'm not mistaken? I can't remember the B level Oregon mandated. Well anyways the biodiesel is more prone to separate from the petroleum part and the bio settles to the bottom like old bacon grease. Typically solidifies sooner that petroleum diesel.

I see you already have a account on the article database just blast it into a spot in the 12V interior stuff. Thanks!

Are you willing to do a write up on how you did it all and what you used?

More pictures...

I can see that... Clunkin' and noises but again it should not create a tire wear issue.

Man some days I'm glad I don't have TV anymore...

Nothing but the same old green fuel and aluminium bottom looking back at me. The pics are of my filters at 30k miles. Like I said I'm fussy about where I get fuel at. No black scum or anything.

Simple. What Bill is referring to is the rubber bushing in the a-arms of the 2WD trucks that as they wear out the alignment is lost over time. Where with 4WD truck we don't have all the rubber in the suspension like 2WD it mostly a solid axle with ball joints. There is the control arms but even mine appear in very good shape yet.

For safety sake test your alternator for AC noise output. That is the main reason for electrical failures on our truck is a bad alternator diode feeding AC ripple to sensitive electronics.

For us the mechanical lift pump had to be dropped because they could not provide the needed volume at higher RPM's. http://www.torkteknology.com/news/5/Technical-Article-Number-One%252d-The-Cummins-Lift-Pump.html