Mopar1973Man

Try again. Typically the first save needs to be inspected by staff then you should be able to return and edit.

That should resolve that... Give it another shot.

Commonly found in over the road trucks. I'm sure they will work for our applications too.

I'm just like Russ but a 3" through the center but no drone at all towing or not. The only difference I can hear the turbine spool up now. To this...

I got to admit there is nothing like a good Cummins. Funny though in the industrial world for over the road truck most didn't like them.

Hey Gang... I want to build a article page of all the modules available for the 24V Dodge Cummins. I want to list even obsolete modules and there ratings too. I want all information possible. Company name, web link, module model, Changes from one to another if know, amount of HP/TQ, wire tapped or not. Software downloads, etc.

Here is how to do it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/27-hvac-heating-ventalation-and-air-conditioning/57-air-conditioning-evaporator-core-heater-core-replacement

I've had to adjust my 72 Dodge Power Wagon, 73 Dodge Charger, 76 Dodge Motorhome... From what I found is wear and tear from debris is the biggest factor. Like I'm due to change the power steering fluid very soon on my truck again its dark and getting a burnt / well used smell now.

Exactly. I would still be mindful of this problem. Air typically is the reverse it prevent it from running. The only thing I know of that creates this high rev idle is a ECM that is having internal issues. I would still check the alternator being its free.

This one is for Cowboy I ran across a Redneck Truck driver and had to share it. http://www.lilligren.com/Redneck/redneck_truck_driver.htm

You might hop over to Tractor Farm and Family and ask TFF Admin about it. http://forum.tractorfarmandfamily.com

Good One Cowboy on the Safety Pig. Don't want to see my CSS / Template coding either.

If the MIL is OFF and the ECM is send data saying it ON. That simply tells me the ECM has taken damage of some sort. But I would check with other tools to see if it states the same thing as the MIL being ON if so then ECM is most likely damaged. But if several other tools show the MIL is OFF I would challenge the tester or find another test station to do the work. I would even take a try at the local dealer for support.

1-2 Inches I can see fudge factoring a bit here and there. Like you called it a levelling kit. But most go beyond this and add more lift.

I personally think the entire geometry of the truck needs to be considered on all height changes.

As far as I know all the download links are functional.

Yeah... Just done the very same thing on my 1996 this last winter and fixed the issues.

I'm glad to see both sides here. Wild and Free trying to be helpful but in turn Russ holding out tight to what he can still do. I tend to agree with Bill eventually you will have to concede to moving to a Condo. I've got my retired fire chief that is in his mid 80's and has a handicapped wife. They finally gave in and moved to retirement home in Grangeville, ID. I'm glad he did. So I understand Bill's comments but in the same token I understand Russ's fight to hang on. Because even Jean (Fire Chief) just couldn't do the retirement home thing. Jean fought it for about 30 days and finally stayed at the retirement home. So Russ just be really with yourself and understand your limits.

Yes. No joke. I actually bleach some of the dark color out of it. About every 6 months I have it done.

No joke. If the MIL is OFF and NO codes can be read then the truck should pass. If there is anything pending it shouldn't count till the error code is tripped or the MIL is ON.

Ouch...

If there is a MIL error then there should be a code. Even if its pending and has fully tripped there still should be a error code. If so then have the shop write down the code and post it here so we can help you.

Russ... When you do the adjustment do it slow and little at a time. Most will suggest you do it following the FSM directions. There is a WORM THRUST BEARING PRELOAD (Page 19-17 of 2001 FSM). This is at the input side of the gear box and there is a very large jam nut and adjustment plug. Then there is the other adjustment PITMAN SHAFT OVER-CENTER PRELOAD (19-17 of the 2001 FSM). Standard nyloc nut and a Allen set screw. Turn the allen inwards. I typically do it in 1/4 turn amounts. If either adjustment is done wrong it could lead to damaging the gear box as some have reported to me. But most people don't want to pull entire steering box out to just the slack out of it.

Exactly. Like for me to change out the filters on my truck I got to clamp off the supply hose because the siphon effect of the loaded fuel system. What you need to remember is to stay within the abilities of the pump. All pumps will lift fluid X amount of distance. As long as it not outside that your fine. Like in our case you can't be above the frame level because there is a body in the way. Even with the idea of being in the fender area you can rise much more than a few inches to tuck the pump and filters. DieselFuture's setup is what I would like to have in the my future fuel system. But I would hit a wrecking yard and get the 1994-1996 fender skirts. Then hide all that stuff in one whack!