Mopar1973Man

Jamie at CPP is now a vendor here at the site. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/154-cummins-performance-parts/ There is always Eric @ Vulcan Performance. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/151-vulcan-performance/ Unless there is another vendor out there people would like me to join up with?

When the light comes on it means there is a gauge outside its normal value. Are any gauges showing extremely low or high readings? You might want to check the cluster.

JAG you might want to read a thread I'm involved in over at CF. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/1419514-whats-our-beef-vp44.html

I've still got the tires in the yard I pop a pic of them.

There is other factors in this conversation that your not considering too. Like fuel chemistry, weather factors, loading of the vehicle and other modifications. Like you could have everything going against you and get poor MPG one day with the very same tune then everything being perfect the next and be really high MPG's. So any kind of tuning and MPG figures can't be done and a tank to tank basis but long term period like several months or year span.

I'm sure the answer is "Hell No." He's hoping that she will hit a deer some time hopefully enough to total the car but not injure her.

No kidding. This little Kia had very little room. The water pump pulley had to be removed and there is four 10mm head bolts holding the pulley on. The PITA was there wasn't any way to bar the bar pulley to get the last bolt out. Well... I did find a way eventually.

Talk about sitting in the "Hot Seat!"

Botched previous belt change. Not I said the fly...

Check for draw. Since you passing power into the seat motors some how draining on the batteries then the switch must be making a weak connection. You could unhook each seat motor one at a time to see which switch could be causing it. When you find the motor that is bleeding the current then when it unhooked the draw will vanish.

Well for now I would just unplug the electric seats. But what's funny I've happen to have a electric seat switch here for you if need be... But more than likely you have a bad power seat switch.

I've got 1 set of ST tires that where rated for 99 MPH. I actually ran them on the truck. Speed rating of a Q. Load Range G. Size 235/ 85 R16. So they do exist but not common place. What's funny is this set of tires where China made and worked wonderful on the truck for 30k miles which was typical tire life for me. https://www.bigotires.com/Tire-Detail/VOMA/SOLID-TRAC-RADIAL-A-S-TRAILER/23024

Ummm... Here is ash and what it will do to your injectors. Yes. It can plug or mess with injectors spray.

Bringing here... http://speedsociety.com/crazy-fast-cummins-runs-9-81-spinning-four-tires/

I've also got radial ST tires on both trailers but neither tire is rated for above 65 MPH period. Maxxon and TowMax are the brands I'm running currently.

I'm pretty sure there is a few VW vehicles with diesel engines that are all wheel drive.

If you doing Nerf bars again go with the Bully Bars that are chrome finish. Mine are actually stainless steel and a bit of "aluminium brightener" works awesome to clean them up and make it look new again.

Top pic fuse 2 & 10 supply the circuit for the key switch. Fuse 1 supplies also to the Cab. There is 3 pages of power supply for this. 2002-Dodge-Cummins-Wiring.pdf

Once again the is the PDC. Everything under the hood is usually exterior circuits. The fuse panel inside the cab is going to be all cab related.

It's called ash.

ISX conditions yo can do such with fairly consistent MPG's. Now here I can driver back and forth to work and the next day drive to McCall Idaho and alter the MPG number. Or have to climb a 16% grade to get to the fire chief's place, or maybe haul a load of firewood. That why my numbers are very dynamic and extremely difficult to get a consistent number. Heck I might have a summer where I get called out several fire call than be caning the throttle around other vehicles.

Here is the box opened up...

Need to get pass the alternator lugs and get into the subsystems and start measuring other circuits for draw. The lugs at the alternator fuse are the master feeds entering the vehicle anyways. As I supplied in the pic in the previous post. Heck if your out here in Idaho I'd do the testing for you.

Ok... Click here.

I've got a friend that brought me his car and it was vibrating horrid. Just off idle it would vibrate really bad. He did some digging and found a video on setting counter balance shafts. So comes back with the car today and ask me to do the work for him. All I got to say is it fixed the problem and moderately difficult to do but if your patient you'll get through it. I also thanked the author of the video for showing this...