Dieselfuture

Crazy, just about 30 miles out of town going west, no snow at all.

I've done plenty of that last night

That's pretty much the exact scenario this morning, lots of trucks and SUVs in the clean lane going about 35, I have my cruise set at 65 in snowy lane. Funny part is if it was still snowing the lane I was in would be considered the good lane. I usually check road conditions every once in awhile when driving, when I feel safe I'll push brakes hard just to see what will happen and how much traction I'm getting same on taking off, that way I can judge my distance and speed from that.

Yeah, it was fun last night, but sucked getting to work in the morning, all the extra safe drivers were out

First good snow. Qwad cities Iowa

So far I like these tires, snowing here in quad cities and in 4x4 no problems at all 2 wheel I can get going but need to spin them a bit, but can still go in about 10" of snow in 2wd. I can finally spin my tires lol.

Isn't almost like they are seeing how much sh.t people will take before they go lab rats is all we are, I feel at times......

Nah it's to inject fuel in exhaust to throw flames out of tail pipe

Looks like some sort of emission stuff, or someone had their crank case vent plumbed there to draw out pressure from engine.

Wonder who got it and if they know who had it.... man that would be something to be proud of. Having a part that was previously owned by @Mopar1973Man with all that care and love and 350k, then if it can go another 350k and in 10 years or so do it again move it down the line, ahh just gets me going for some reason ha ha.

Your fass being loud is just air/cavitation after you changed filters. I dought your filters were clogged, but this is where fuel pressure gauge shines, not only its good to have driving down the road but let's say it's been in 18-19psi range for a year and now you're noticing it being 16-17 then if nothing else has changed like colder weather, maybe it's time for filter change and reason I say maybe is sometimes it's spring and ball in return to tank from fass that can cause pressure drop and a loud noise that you heard. What apps do you have, stock or timbo? When you get extra money and not sure what to spend it on get a timbo. Mike has them here in online store. As for the lope, if you have no codes it could be injectors. ECM is in control at idle, unless you have ac noise that is messing with electrical then check your alternator and do the ground mod if you haven't yet. It really helps in more than one way.

I can't begin to imagine not being able to get parts easily and have them in less then a week without paying extras just because. You guys in UK are patient ha ha.

What he said^^^ If it was stored properly, then it will be fine in 100 years I would think.

I don't think it's worth the hassle, or everyone would have done it by now

I've welded plenty on my truck, but I do disconnected batterys, both grounds and positives, haven't had issue, or so I think. Maybe my ABS brake light is part of that It's definitely important on a gassers, I've fried oxygen sensors before, wedding exhaust.

Well wires all checked out. I got 0.01 on wires and 1.0 on sensors. After i screwd around and drove few times today light hasn't come back yet. I'm still leaning towards a lose wire. Kinda like @dripley and his electrical ghost. These trucks are hunted period.... I think I'll just start treating it like I don't care see if it helps.

Nice,... I got 17.5 on last fill up, I guess I have nothing to worry about ha ha, except my ABS light _______

Nice project, Please tell me that's not a fram oil filter

I see what your saying and it makes sense, but these are brand new Timkens I just put in, and the whole reason I did it is I thought my other ones were going bad and throwing the abs light. Although the ones I took off were still tight and no movement at all no noise, nothing. What are the chances of having same issues with different bearings. I'm going to play with wireing and see if I can find a lose wire. Do you have a diagram for these abs wires where they go to module, which wires to probe?

Jag if you don't mind I'll post here again. Just had someone scan my ABS problem and it showing front left sensor dropping out randomly. I don't think it's the wheel bearing or a senso. Original wheel bearings did it, then I put new sensors on them and it did it again and now I have new Timken wheel bearings with new sensors and it's doing it again so it has to be in the wiring. Any thoughts anyone.

Not sure how much room you got if you can drill a hole and then see if it comes out using easy out, or something similar you can screw in there and pull, if you can tilt it sideways while pulling it should come out. Then maybe you can tap some threads in there like 8th npt and crew in a brass plug

If I had more than an acre I would get zero turn, something commercial grade like mentioned above. bad boy, gravely, hustler, there are few others that make a good mower. Those that mow all day get stand up, not sit down type. I spoke with few guys that use stand ups and they all said if you're doing it all day they are better on your body. And in Mike's case of rolling it over, you can just jump off, but more expensive ones have a roll bar. For home owners it's probably better a sit down one that has a hitch for yard trailers, backing up a trailer with zero turn is very easy. Hustlers offer a blade too for plowing snow, but for the cost you can get a real nice snow blower. Fabbed decks are the way to go for longetivity and a kawasaki comertial motor, they usually last 1500 hours on average if taken care off, at work we have one Hustler super z with 2200 hours, it just won't quit, but also had a Hustler x1 that motor blew up around 1600 hours. When I spoke with contractors they said 2 of their kawasakis blew around 1500h but then again how well are they taking care of. Ours at work run all day and get abuses with minor issues. Belts last forever seems like, blades get sharpened every week, but you're talking roughly 30-40 hours a week and constantly hitting trash in parks. Very few guys that mow get their lazy off the mower to pick stuff up, it's like a mini chipper, even sticks that are almost 2" in diameter get mulched. But when it's not yours, we'll you know....

If it's truly coming from the frost plug, then maybe just use one or two bars leaks tablets. Unless you think you can get that plug out, and as far as I know all plugs in that head are stainless steel. If you can get it out I'm sure there's some sort of a robber plug like a boat type with a screw to expand rubber. Not sure if you drain coolant below that level, then took like a pencil torch or just a torch lighter, get it hot enough to burn paint and dirt off, blow it clean, and use some JB Weld. Or just some brake clean and J-B Weld. Still need to get coolant below that level.

I don't know anymore, to be honest ha ha. Diesel needs hear to ignite, so for DD I think you'll benefit more from warm air, but if racing/putting a load on engine/turbo, it creates more heat then maybe cold air will help. But I still think there is a sweet temp that performs best, let's say 120 degrees. So maybe 4th gen airbox can open up to outside air if iat temps get close to 120 and if temp is low then it can suck worm air from under the hood

Wonder if it would matter at all with quadzilla on defueling part. I think ecm is in control and qwadzila overrides ecm signal so it should be fine I would think. Someone smarter then me will figure it out.