Dieselfuture

Made a little progress today. Head just has valves left in it, so tomorrow if I get time I'm planning on retorque the head. Then I'll be waiting on seals to show up and few goodies to go along with. First set of seals came in, I got regular ones that look top notch and newer style top hats but that lip is definitely on the way, they do slide on the guide nice and tight and bottom out on the lip. Hopefully other kind will fit, we'll see. Also took 7x10 injectors apart and looks like brand new nozels, not sure what brand but definitely not reworked Bosch. Looks like good quality though. Pulled windshield wiper guts out since I have to replace motor anyway and one push rod didn't come out, it was hitting the swing arm on wiper. I'm also thinking getting some SS 1/4" screen and covering them big holes where windshield wiper motor sits to keep future mice and debris out, here is an injector with about 6k on it, looks a bit carboned up to me in such short time, but this stuff whipped right off with just a rag.

I thought about opening a shop more than once, but to make good money you ether have to charge top dollar and work a lot of hours or do cash jobs which aren't to common especially latly. Big brother wants money period, and they make it hard for most hard working people to clime out a hole. Probably why a lot of shops just don't care, if you won't pay them someone else will. Local dealer had alignment advertised for $70 plus tax, I figured should be under $80 so I took my car in after getting new tires and came to pick it up it was like $115 120 can't remember, I said WHAT, reply was well there were shop supplies and disposal fees and something else I forget. I had to argue for 20 minutes for him to take cost back to advertising price. And then it was pulling right which it didn't do before and steering wheel was off, man I was pist. Took it back, sorry were busy for next few days, so I drove like that back and forth for 300 some miles as my round trip to work is 150ml so by that time tires were starting to slightly cup. And another thing my door fabric had some dirt and grease on it from mechanic, and this is a big outfit too. What a bunch of crooks. I'm glad I can do alignment and everything else on my truck.

For the right price vinegar taste sweet

No , just 1/2" push rods for bling

I had same problem, though it was my alternator bearings, new gatorback belt and all good. Although shutdown squick noise came back not long after.

Yeah I never understood that whole thing with changing filters once a year or whatever mileage recommended. Oil filter maybe not fuel, if pressure starting to drop or filter is rusting out then I do it. My last one I changed at 15k and it still looked new inside, but after changing it I gained 1.5 psi, not sure what that was about.

In short and repeat as many times as necessary

Hopefully you'll be fine with just basic valve job, decking, maybe new guides. If these seals I'm waiting on don't fit I I would spend few extra bucks and have them machine that little lip off the bottom of guide, so you can use newer style top hat seals. You may not have to do any of that except new seals and surface the head, but at that mileage if it was me I'd do valve job. But then again one of old members here went 1.3 million miles without opening engine I believe Edit, or maybe it was without overhauling it

Not that you're selling it but if you did chances are it'll start going down hill faster then if you just kept driving it. I know it ....

I think these trucks go after whoever starts to fix them and they just keep on braking and if you ignore it then it get mad and just works.

I don't think it matters on fuel if you fill it all the way or empty that much as long as you don't use biodiesel, biodiesel has some moisture in it and if you're going to store it it could cause damage to metal surfaces like injectors and injection pump

Here we come Kendall..... dont they also make racing oil, I used to use their green oil on my race bucket

Man it's been a Hot Topic lately, are solar flares increasing and taking out alternators

You stole my question

I drilled and tapped mine behind calipers, but there is a catch, right after, my abs light came on. I believe it's over greased and dirty grease messing with sensors. I like the idea of a grease fitting, so you can pump grease and rotate hub and watch old stuff come out of abs hole. Do that till clean and then I use old vacuum to get as much out as you can from sensor hole. I would use hight melting point grease so it stays solidified and doesn't mess with sensors. The reason I say this is in winter when it's cold out my abs light stays off, come warmer temperatures I get abs light, I belive it's because grease melts and screws with sensors. I've seen where people disassembled brand new front hubs to find very little grease in here. So if you grease them they will last 500k or more but then you got to deal with abs light. Unless I find better grease next time to try out, on my list. When I drilled mine I used a tiny bit to go all the way through and the right size for the zerks, just to go in far enough for the zerks and before I drilled all the way through I first got the zerks in place and then drilled rest of the way. Used grease on the bit to go the last little bit. Did you ever got abs light after doing that

Thanks, I'm at 86 now with 75hp so I was guessing 80 for 150hp I'll have to see what it does on my current tune and go from there. BTW when are you planning on doing 7x10, I know you've been mentioning it latly. Are going with vco and about 320 pop? That's what I asked dap for, should have them in few days. I'm guessing because of 14mm housing and being automatic you can start higher. But then like you said earlier you want more on take off.

Will do, it was my plan. Now we just need some hope they fit. And also if they fit on my head I'm hoping that's how rest of heads were machined. All else fails we already have a great place to by seals, so you can add them to the list for original seals, I listed part numbers in my earlier post.

Yes, I've been screaming about them since I found out lol. Good people and awesome product. My machine shop also gets their seals from there, go figure. So I just got off the phone with Shawn (who said that you just spoke with him too ) and we did some more measuring, looks like vs-292v is the winner. It will be a little tight on the guide but should fit. I ordered 28 so I can have few for practice, and if they don't fit then it's only money that I've been wasting latly. But if they do fit, then I can open website to sell these lol. But no seriously I'm that they work with little to no modification, he said I could shave a little rubber off inside and they should work according to rest of dimensions. Now I won't be sleeping till hopefully Saturday when they show up.

So looks like vs-292p is poly (?) and vs-292v is viton (fkm) are the closest for fitment. I'm thinking about ordering some myself, viton would be better so vs-292v should be the winner if they fit. The only thing is guide size is listed as .460 and ours (vs-c59bv) are .479

I wonder if it has holding power or is it just more for filling gaps, I know it's kind of sticky and if you let it sit long enough it actually does get pretty hard. This other stuff that the shop told me to use metal lock he's actually some sort of retainer. Wish there was an easy answer to all this. Can believe that someone didn't make Top Hat seals to go on this heads, although there are some top hat seals that look like they may work on that US Seal website but it would take trial and error to figure it out. For example this one, and there are other ones that look like they may fit over the lip. Dimensions are in description http://usseal-eok.com/vs-292p.html Edit, Basically type in in the search field top hat and a whole bunch of different ones come out then all we got to do is see which one would fit by dimensions

I've been kinda following your foot steps on turbo and now injectors, I just got a set coming of 7x10 vco at 320 pop. Hopefully my hybrid 62/67/12 won't run too hot. I know I can tune it out and maybe won't need wiretap at all as I hardly ever used it before. Where do you start your canbus at, I know you got auto but just curious.

Wonder if a sleeve of some sort can be put on

Any pictures of input shaft

No, if you are very patient and this is only my opinion. I did mine when I had the head off and injection lines. Bolt behind vp will come out, at least it did on my truck. Now with the head on, you have that much more blocking the view. Plus I don't have factory fuel filter canister in the way. It's possible but not easy without vp removal

Yeah I seen that too, called them they said it was a special order about 20 plus freight, so I just got it on eBay, whatever... I just need something that will work. If they don't come off easy I don't care, I'm sure I can pry them off if I had to and peeling rubber off guide shouldn't be that hard.