Dieselfuture

Those Hillbillies I tell ya....

Did the ticking noise start before or after adjusting the valves and doing injectors. If you're planning on keeping your truck and having money I would forget about that word (mechanic) if you're capable of changing injectors and adjusting valves I think you can handle quite a bit more with right tools and patience.

Sun, what's that lol, I hadn't seen it in a while. Once a week maybe for half day at best.

KFC, Chick-fil-A ? just kidding. Toxins that we get hammered with on daily basis.

My grandfather always said before trying to solve a problem you first need to understand it.

If you can find one cheap and in good shape or very cheap and rebuilt it then I would, I don't think I'd buy one new, there are other options that would be better. I've bought one before for $100 in great shape didn't need anything, sold it to friend for same price with few other things, he put it on a ricer and it's working for him. Don't get one that's leaking oil in exhaust housing, good chance it will need machine work done, unless you can tear it up part and make sure housing is in good shape.

I don't ever want to go to California it's ruined, Illinois is not far behind in its own way.

Ok found it, it's under 2.7 profile not 2.5 , boy do I feel stupid, nothing new here. Thanks again

I just updated to @Me78569 long idle flash, and tried 98-02 profile, loading bar is there but I didn't see mpg stuff, went back to Quadzilla only test2 and both are there. I didn't see an update for the app, does app on phone needs updated too?

I've done that once when I was younger doing construction, that's where I learned the saying, hit the wrong nail. For some reason people laugh about it.

If you're just changing u joint make sure to put new strap kit on it, and take a file keep it as flat as possible and go over the surface of yoke where strap will be against, shave off few thousands to clean it up, it will also help to clamp new joint down. Sometimes if it goes unnoticed yoke stoppers for u joint caps were and then no matter what you do it will slide back and forth, so the only good way to fix it is to replace the yoke.

@trreed did you hit a wrong nail

Can you turn exhaust brake on with this picture also for faster warm-up, and maybe even high idle

When I put my BD on, I asked the same question and they told me know it's very minimal for restriction. The little fingy that came with your kid is probably lock up for torque converter, I think plenty of people use that set up with no problems. But if you're nervous do more research on it.

At 52k diodes is all you should need. I would definitely not get rid of yours as a core, and nations would be a good choice if you ever got one. I would also make sure all your wiring is in good shape.

Old picture but here is my pod, it supposed to sit back buy windshield but I mounted it up closer. Much easier to see and run lines/wires.

I would do it different, you need to have a niddel valve at least before your guage or snubber and needle valve to keep water hammer down so guage will last longer and if you use mechanical guage then if it starts to leak you can close the valve.

I've pushed my hx to 45 no benefit to that, did feel strong to about 38, spooled really quick compared to hybrid I got now, but hybrid isn't that bad at all after i got used to it.

I put a 1/2" fuel line over 1/8" guage line, so in case it does leak it will be outside of cab, it pokes out an inch or so pass the firewall.I it's the blue line, also notice on air horn I used same fitting and 1/8" line for boost. This is what I used, no problems yet. It's a push in fitting.

Any pictures of what you're doing. Is yoke moving or u joint moving. Sometimes yokes go bad and don't hold u joints in place. You can take yoke off but you'll need a good impact 3/4" with a good compressor, when you put it back on its like 500ft/lb or something, I just marked my nut and yoke when I did my seal and put it back to same place maybe 16th of an inch passed. There is no crush sleeve so you can only tighten it so far.

Pressure shouldn't change it the flow that will, it in gph gallons per hour.

You probably right, but I watched some of fass videos before I got mine and they claimed that their 100 would outflow competitors 150, guessing they were talking about air dog, but then again what sales people wouldn't do for a sale.

I suppose with v2 tuning and right turbo/injectors combo it would be marginal. Even if Ho was 600hp max that is more than enough for a DD/tow truck. I'm probably going to get a used SO some day if I can find a good one that I can trust and see if there is any difference, but I doubt I'd notice it with my set up. My plan was never to get rid of my HO for a core to get SO most places will take HO for So but not the other way around, at least that was the case few years back when I was thinking about it. But if I can score a good used SO of someone I'd definitely keep HO for a spear on the shelf, or under the seat lol.

So what Nick said is in this tune he changed it from 5 to 20 min for this reason, make since.

WOT should be above 14 but that has nothing to do with your issue. I believe you should have fuel coming out so you possibly looking at some leaks, or a weak lift pump. But honestly VP should pull its own Fuel and work okay idle without a lift pump, don't believe it's recommended for very long time. So back to losing Prime issue. Is fuel system all original. That's on a Ford. Although I suppose if oil sender didn't register pressure it may not let you start it as a safety feature. Any other issues of codes