Dieselfuture

Here are my 17s from 4th gen

Have you checked by cad if you got vacuum, and you can put a hose on actuator and suck vacuum on each fitting and it will engage and disengage. If all checks out there, then there is something by the transfer case that I never messed with myself but I know it's there. I wanted to eliminate as much as I could with all that vacuum stuff that's why I went with a cable instead, plus having a 2low is nice for backing up hill with a trailer, which can be done other ways. I just wanted to try posilock, and my actuator was on the way out so I was almost half way on the cost just replacing it.

Lol, looks good on paper though

Not sure if you knew but 4th gen also fit that's what I have, sometimes you can find just as good of a deal as on 3rd gen, that is part of the reason I like factory rims because they had to meet some kind of a standard for weight rating. And the ones I got off of 4th gen it was a 3500. Not sure if weight rating on Wheels would be different.

I got a bunch of random pipe that I cut to size when I need it, got a bucket full of random pieces through the years of making my own tools. I pick things up randomly, something I can't find laying around I get at a local steel place. Usually pay few bucks and they let me dumpster dive once in a while, although I haven't done that lately, you wouldn't belive what I got out of it. My front bumper is mostly from there along with things I made through the years. EDIT Oh man I just realized I quoted a post from 2014

They usually leak from filter housing on bottom where heater is attached. My 12v I sold did same thing, I just got rid of a heater all together, there is an adapter that you can unscrew and remove it. At least that's how my 97 was.

Here is my thread, some good info in there also.

I've pulled bumper trailers and Gooseneck trailers the difference is worth it, can't go wrong with a gooseneck/5th wheel. I'm a fan of a gooseneck, because it doesn't take all the room like fifth-wheel does, and you don't have to man handle it if you want to clean your bed out, but I haven't seen too many campers that use a gooseneck vs. 5th wheel. There must be a reason behind it, I'm just too lazy to look it up. Someday when I talk my wife into owning a camper I'm sure I'll learn it all.

I bolted mine with SS self tappers on the inside of the fenders, just behind the batterys in a cavity you see when you take lights out. There was just enough room to put 3 screws in from the side through that smaller hole.

You could be leaking from fuel filter canister, return lines from vp and back of the head that T together on driver side above starter, that T could be also leaking, if you messed with injectors lately check those lines too. Something is telling me either return t or filter housing leaking.

It does sound like a regulator, wired that it would work a fret it ran for a while. It almost could be an electric motor, have you checked amps. Just thinking out loud.

If this makes anyone feel any better, I get up at 5 and drive 150ml round trip for work every day, and they just cut some of my time off couple of years ago by 2 weeks, it was something they came up with and made it sound good by callingit pto, I argued and tried telling them it wasn't right, but only had few options at the end, take it or leave it. So far I've been dealing with it but as soon as something comes along I'll be showing them reason I'm still putting up with it is it pays well other then that it's all fake smiles.

Could you be gelling

If you're able to hook up there I don't see why not it's before VP and after your lift pump

That would make sense with higher pop on injectors it probably retards to 15 maybe and starts easier. I know on Gas motors guys have problems blowing starters out because they run total timing that is locked at 30 some degrees, so retarded timing helps start ups and advertising it up top is needed for high rims. On the other hand I've seen 4 semis on the side of the road 3 duramaxes and a Ford. It's gotten cold here negative 10 last night today it was 7, be like this all week. About an inch of snow.

I stopped looking at factoy lieomiter, I'm playing with Nicks lieometer now, getting it pretty close. I'm at 140 on it now which seems high for 75hp injectors but it's pretty close and it's way more instant then factory one. I'm averaging about 18 now. It's about 10f out in day time.

Sorry to hear that, that is part of the reason I like my accord, starts every time. I had same problem with my truck few years back with good fuel and extra additive for antigell and it still was milky in glass jar so I didn't even bother trying to start it, had that happen before and I just felt like I was raping the truck. Times like that if you know you'll need to drive the truck around here i know of some that put kerosene in ahead of time.

^^^Did a quick search and it's only a 180f I would run 190 -200. And yeah people at parts counter at Cummins are brain dead

then maybe something wrong with abs module sorry I

I just got an email from https://www.theretrofitsource.com Incase someone is thinking about Morimoto's this is 15% off code. CODE: TRSXMAS15 Maybe it's just on sale but just in case.

I believe right way to call it is fuel module, but we call it a basket. Maybe it's because it's full of surprises. Here is mine modified. Once you get yours out it will make more sense if you go that route. Picture where it's in the tank, top view, notice there is one fitting with a cap, that's old style draw straw that is cut about 3/4" too sort and I had to keep my fuel level above 3rd or every time I stop too fast or take off I'd be sucking air, and how you tell is fuel pressure drops and fuel pump becomes loud.

Look around his site he has both 1/2 and 3/8. If it was me I'd just do it in 1/2 and be done with it. 3/8 is better than what you have but if you're doing the work you might as well. Biggest restriction is in fuel basket, unless you modify it to be truly 1/2 in there, no point in big line kit. There are fittings that are 1/4 or smaller inside of basket. Or do old stile draw straw, just a single 1/2 tube and return to filler neck. Just need to make sure you don't cut it too short, then you don't need to mess with fuel basket. 6 of one half of dozens of the other. And about running a line from tank to vp that's the whole idea of big line kit, you eliminate factory inlet line all together, and only going to use factory return from vp and back of the head.

No I don't think so, as long as they are all same size shouldn't matter. It's got something to do with one of the sensors not reading correctly, be my guess.

@dripley you just reminded me of a joke, may not be that funny but here it is. You know how Santa always gives presents and he never gets any, maybe we just don't know what he wants, but he's been saying it for years ho ho ho. Yeah I know that's the best that I got for a moment. Wishing everyone a merry Christmas and most of all health, not that I'm getting a bit older it's starting to mean a lot more to me then before, money is one thing but without health money is meaningless to an extent. Another thing to remember is who's birthdays we're celebrating, it may not be the right date according to some but it's the principal. I just want people to remember this holiday is not about buying crap we don't need with money we don't have. For what it's worth happy birthday Jesus, I remember what you've done for us.

You have a wrong app or flash or both