CTcummins24V

Try and get a cheapo used one from the bone yard, while rebuilding yours with beefy parts.

I destroyed my first seal going in from the back and bent my second seal from the front and it now it leaks. Use light force tapping the seal and make sure it goes in perfect/y level/flat. Did you install the cover on the engine yet or doing this on the ground? If installed on the engine/timing case, there is wiggle room with the bolts and cover. Meaning if the bolts are loose, you can move the cover up down left right about a 1/16th and it can be off center from the crank, making a seal install impossible.

http://www.topguncustomz.com/c-101-short-control-arms.aspx?section=-19-44- Price and time? Pushing out the old bushings would be a pain, but cost effective. You'll pay an arm and a leg for oem Mopar, but if they lasted that long...Tubular arms are supposed to be stronger but do you actually need added strength? I went with new moog control arms, haven't had them on long enough to say anything to longevity.

MBRP- 4" downpipe, 5" exhaust/muffler/FTE resonator

I had both 4" and 5" with mufflers. 5" is louder! I had to add a resonator, but the 5" sounds better.

Edge EZ. Simple plug and play. Just hit the switch for power levels, 3 levels, nothing fancy. When I first bought my truck, it was bone stock. Then I did a lift pump, which helped, then 60hp injectors and then the EZ. The programmer did the most wonders for throttle response and driveability hands down.

Guy at work has a 2015, daily driver, don't think he tows/hauls at all, the turbo is all gummed up/or vanes frozen, needs a new one with under 40,000 miles, codes galor. Luckily, under warranty, dealer quoted something like $4,000 to fix. I couldn't see myself with a brand new truck and have to pay thousands to fix because of emissions equipment. I would vote egr/dpf delete. I'm curious to the longevity, time and miles, of 4th gens.

Fill out your signature. If you have a 2000-2002, you can use this... 52122362AL http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/ http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/mopar-09-steering-upgrade-kit-for-03-08-ram-2500-3500-trucks.html

Hopefully someone will chime in, but I just followed the directions Timbo gave. I still had a small spot in the pedal at the bottom with no throttle response, so I had to adjust that screw (tighten) on the TV lever/linkage. If you have to loosen/tighten that star screw, use heat to break the loctite, or you can strip it like I did. Then I had to drill and tap and use a bigger bolt.

Thanks guys! I learned something today! Unlikean umbrella seal, a positive seal does not move. It is pressedin place on the end of the valve guide and wipes the oil off thevalve stem as the stem moves up and down. The seal does not actuallymake direct contact with the stem but rides on a thin film ofoil creating a hydrodynamic seal. This allows a small amount ofoil to slip past the seal to lubricate the guide. For this reason,a precise fit is extremely important with a positive seal to getaccurate oil metering. If a positive seal fits too loose aroundthe valve stem, too much oil will get past the seal and floodthe guide. Oil consumption will go up along with all the problemsthat go with too much oil in the combustion chamber. If a positiveseal fits the stem too tight, the hydrodynamic seal may be lostas the oil film is scraped off the stem. This will starve theguide for lubrication causing increased valve stem and guide wear(seal wear, too), and may even cause the valve stem to overheat,gall and stick.

The exhaust seals are all messed up. The valve just moves up and down the seal with no oil inside? I know you don't want oil getting in the top of the cylinder, but there's no lubrication on the valve stem seal?

I would say there is something different going on. In stock form I was getting 19mpg highway and over 20mpg with the comp and other upgrades. If your mileage is down since replacing parts, something is off. I've heard of guys running the stock lift pump and getting good mileage and then put a fass or airdog on and have the mpgs fall off.

Yup! I went trough 3 sets of pads and rotors on a chevy impala from warping, probably due to a stuck caliper. The whole front end shook when braking at high speeds. Each time a new set was installed the shaking disappeared, but would reappear after a couple months. We just did front pads and rotors on my cousins 06 f350, same symptoms, shaking when braking. Both front slide pins were rusted and the calipers weren't moving. We fixed that and the high speed shaking dramitcaly decreased, only to reveal another culprit, almost 1/4" of play on the driver's side ball joints.

The manual specifies atf+4, but we just had a discussion on using something different. Go to the vendors section, dynamic transmission. If you don't know the last time your transmission was serviced, or it's been 50,000 miles, good idea to replace the filter, governer solenoid and pressure transducer and weld a drain plug on the pan or get an aftermarket pan with a drain plug. A drain and refill will suffice.

Mine does the same thing, at idle. I was scared because this was my first diesel and I didn't know what's normal for these motors. Truck still pulls strong, so I assume it's normal . My buddies 6.0 powerstroke does the same thing, but I don't think that's reassuring coming from a 6.0. Deep pulse on the intake tube/filter?

I couldn't tell you. Upgrading from a 56mm to a 60mm compressor without changing the exhaust side is suspect. First I ran a 12cm gated housing, it surged when on the throttle. Then ran a 14cm non gated and it still surged. Then a year later I ran a 58mm wheel with no surging issues, but I didn't gain much at all. But, when that 60mm wheel was in, it lit so fast and hit hard!

Early model hx35. Crossover year, found on 94-95 automatics Need to machine the housing for the bigger wheel or get a new wheel and housing. HX40 is usually a 60mm wheel. Hx35 is either a 54mm or 56mm. I did a hybrid, it was a surge queen. Not worth it in my opinion. All about your right foot and setting on the box and you can burn clean and cool...unless you have massive injectors. And proper shifitng when loaded

I would say lines also. I had pinched/kinked metal line in the rear that caused that one side to drag. I discovered it when I went to bleed the brakes and had no fluid coming out of the caliper.

You have to swap the entire turbo, it's not hard. NO mix/match parts. The HY and HX used different connections to attach to the center section and have different center sections. First pic is an HY, held on by a ring on the compressor side(intake) and v-band clamp on the turbine side(exhaust). Others pics are HY next to WH1C(HX35), that uses a band clamp on the compressor and straps on the turbine end. Plus the waste gates won't swap over.

Tree rats were at it again

In this month's TDR magazine...Geno's Garage

Definitely rebuild. I bought a reman unit...waste of money. You have to take parts off your old hydroboost anyways and transfer them to the "new" unit, like the mounting bracket and spring.

Upgrade to a Timbo and be done with it

Sorry, it's connected, just misadjusted. I swapped out a single disc for a triple disc last summer and I haven't played the cable enough to get it exactly where I want it. It shifts great at heavy and moderate throttle, but light throttle around town is miserable. I keep it in 2nd now when going through the center of town with all the lights and traffic.

Ideally. My TV cable is off right now and it shifts ways to soon and locks up way to soon. Terrible for driving around in town under 40mph under light throttle. As stated above, I like my gears to hang a little bit so I'm not dogging the motor. You want to keep RPMs up a little so your turbo is spooling and building some boost to get the hot exhaust gas out. My dodge is happy between 1800 an 2200 RPMs.