Wild and Free

I thank you all very much for the prayers and kind words.She passed away late this morning very peacefully, it has been a very hard day but with support from family and friends it does make it a bit more bearable.

I need everyone to pray for my mom Shirley. She is in Hospice care and only has a short time left here with us.She has fought MS since she was 19 years old and an acoustic neroma tumor for the last 13 years, she is now 63 and she has been in a nursing home for the last 11 years. It has been hard for me as I have been her care taker for the last 20 years.My mother was a born again christian and was not afraid of the process of crossing over as her time here on earth has always been hard her whole life and yet she was the one with the biggest smile and biggest laugh and the one who brought joy and smiles to everyone around her.

Yep it is in limp mode and if so there should be a logged code in the PCM as to what is wrong but usuallu it is a bad governor pressure solenoid that causes it. If driving in limp mode it would heat up very fast too.Swap the solenoid and or if you want the whole VB but I would be cautiuos with that move seeing how much debris was running through your system, I would take it to a tranny shop and have it checked out.I warned you of buying used trannies, don't say you were not warned of the issues at hand.

http://www.bluetopsteeringgears.com/ The link above. I bought a 3.5 turn OEM GM steering gear when they were still available before us Dodge boys all wiped out the world supply of them and they are no longer built and that is why Borgeson started building a newer version of that gear. This was also before I knew and worked with Ryan at Bluetop, he claims he can convert our 4.5 turn into a 3.5 turn so it would be a definate option to contact him on. In my opinion on the flex is that it is so minor and minute that it would not be noticabe, It became a problem with guys running bigger tires and or using them in nothing but slow speed constant turn areas like city queen driving or on heavy loaded front ends like bigger bumpers or snowplows, the normal user will see no benefit from a brace . Here is a link to a 3rd gen trac bar conversion, it consists of a simple bolt on bracket and a 3rd gen bar. It eliminates the junky pitman joint on the end of the second gen bar that wears out and bangs and causes a wandering front axle, If this is in place I think that it would cure a lot of flex that the steering brace is designed to absorb as well. http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/2nd-3rd-gen-dodge-25003500-trackbar-retrofit-kit-p-801.html

X2^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Go with the Borgeson and don't look back,It was by far the best mod of all on my old 02. Had I done the 3.5 turn box as a first steering upgrade it would have saved me hundreds more on all the other stuff that makes minimal to no difference in actual steering feel. Also set your caster as high as the control arm cams will go, this will help eliminmate wander between those 2 it will be way better than new. Also get a 3rd gen conversion trac bar and kit too.

Is that actual voltage or are you reading Millivolts being you are on the lowest setting on AC? It should read V or MV in the lower corner of most meters.

P0237 (M) Map Sensor Voltage Too Low MAP sensor voltage input below the minimum acceptablevoltage.I think it could be a derate issue related to a bad MAP sensor loose connection or bad wire or even a bad Edge. Does the JWA have safety parameters you can set? if so see what the boost is set at, if it is getting a bad reading from the sensor it could be defueling it.Have you considered a TIMBO APPS?

Does it smoke when cranking it? If not double check for fuel at the injectors again while cranking, sounds like an air leak or something along those lines.

Sounds like a nice find, can't wait to see it!

Depending on If it truely is a reman who and where it is marked would vary if it was marked at all. Would be hard to tell if it was done at a Bosch certified reman shop, some may stamp a # on the housing somewhere but unless it was removed the chances of seeing it are slim.

The only experience I had with a no wait to start light happened the day I got my Smarty, I was in the middle of nowhere waiting to meet a guy half way with a trailer and I had just tried a Smarty program before I left home for the first time, while I was sitting there waiting I decided to load a different program and then while downloading things went bad and lost communication and couldn't get it back, tried to start and it was a no go also noticed there was no WTS light, well after getting towed home and getting on the phone with Bob Wagner who put me through to Marco Himself he said a no WTS light is a dead ECM, said some ECMs have week driver boards and fail while downloading, Bob sent me an ECM overnight and got me on the road again.Long story short no WTS light equals dead ECM. But I am surprised yours even ran at all for a while.

I just came from a week long failutre analysis class that Caterpillar put on and there was a lab tech in my class who does oil analysis for a living at a Cat dealership, he and the instructor were talking about how Shell/Rottella was rejected publically by Cummins engine company and Caterpillar years ago due to poor quality and not meeting many if any lubrication specs the companies laid out. Shell/Rottella did improve their product a bit after that but is still not looked at as a quality oil from the big diesel engine manufacturers.

I want a video of you looking at the blowby at 55mph+!!!!

Some times oil usage can be rectified by changing to a different brand of oil for a while, I have seen engines do what yours is doing and then stop oil consumption completely by switching oil brands. Would be worth a shot for a few thousand miles as it will not hurt anything to try at this point.Compression test would be a good spot to start if you do anything.

http://www.infowars.com/articles/media/harvey_triumphs_smallpox_blankets_slavery.htm

3 different dynos, both unadjusted #'s were within +-10Hp at 2200 ft elevaton one was load cell one was inertia, the low # was an adjusted # load cell dyno at higher elevation over 5k feet in Billings Montana that netted 520 hp but that was before the HRVP44. I was running an HRVP44 with a regular HOT unlocked edge comp. The HRVP only got me 30 hp more over a standard Vp44 on the local dynos unadjusted.

When swapping them make darn sure you keep and don't loose the little tin spacer washers under the factory sensors, you will need to measure the length of the new sensors and make sure they are close to the same length "I just hold them end to end and that will tell you if there is any length difference" If they are the exact same length and it had washers then you will need to reuse them. I have replaced them and had to reuse the factory spacer washer a couple of times and a couple of time the replacement sensors did not require the spacers. Just be sure to not loose them or you could wind up buying another set when the replacement sensors are a wee to long and get ground off the first time you move it.

One doen't need a manual to use an exhaust brake of any kind, I actually like how they work on autos much better than manuals. Plus after 20 years of wrenching on concrete and gravel and frozen ground ect ect my left knee don't like running a clutch to often.

On my 02 I had an II Silver 62 single turbo and Bd 155 sticks and was only running 40 psi boost and was a solid 560 hp, but I realize I had way more air flow with my single than you have with the twins you have.

Best commercial of the whole game by far! Having grown up on a large farm and Ranch I can relate to it very much.:thumbup2:Wife liked the Budweiser commercial with the clydesdale colt.

The universal ball joint presses do not work well on the AAM front axles as they have a goofy offset and have a bigger gap between the 2 joints, You can get them apart but getting the upper one in with the universal kit can be done but it takes some inginuity, There are specific ball joint presses for the AAM ball joints for Dodge and Jeep products but they are expensive.I had to disassemble my upper ball joints from Carli to install them with the universal ball joint kit as I couldn't get any of the parts in the kit to work right.

I don't know what turbos you have as twins but with what you describe I would have to say you are well over 500 hp. And I agree when I posted 350 to the OP I was going on the long side with that statement.

In the right conditions it will get fairly warm, probably not hot unless the level gets fairly low then it would probably get warmer depending on ambient temps and speed of travel ect.

"I just think everything COULD be prevented if we looked at the fine details"Like an old timer once told me a long time ago, " If everything on this world that was built perfect we would all be out of work"If there is Even one single wire in a circuit that goes to some other place it has to be a possible lead for troubleshooting, I have seen bad grounds or shorted wires at one end of a machine that totally threw other component out of whack because they share a common connector or connection at some other component in the middle. It happens more than one would think.I wish the automotive industry would get with the game like the industrial end has for troubleshooting, on Komatsu equipment the service manual breaks out every single connector on a machine and gives testing procedures with a multimeter looking for voltage, grounds or ohms ect and results to be able to isolate an exact problem in every single wire and electrical component on the machine.