Rogan

I don't really think that fits 2gen trucks. Autometer lists the 18018 for 03-07 Dodge, and 99-04 Ford SuperDuty trucks... I've never seen one of these in a 2G truck.. yet..

Here's what I found on my '01, shortly after taking ownership of it, last year.. New on left, what I took off the truck, on RIGHT.. lol

My high school was 7th through 12th grade, and had a total of 132 kids. My senior class consisted of 12 students..LOL

when you removed the turbo from the truck, did your exhaust elbow have a v-band connection? That's one thing I wished my 01's turbo had, rather than the bolt-on flange. I know if I take them loose to install an exh. brake (RamBrake) that I'll have to pull the entire turbo off and apart, so I can drill out the broken bolts that will surely break..

smoke, does the trans make noise under load or anything? Or is it mostly just that it won't go into gears easily? When was the last time the fluid was changed, and what was put in it? From your initial explanation, it sorta sounds like the wrong fluid type was used, and it's wiped out the synchros..

Before: Became: So then, I took this: Plus some good leftovers from the blue one, and made this: Of course, the above pic was taken a little before I had it all back together.. A few weeks after the dyno session, I hauled the car back to the bodyshop to get a few things touched up. While it was there, a few weeks later, it was stolen. Only the wheels were recovered about 4 months later. $40K, poof.. insurance gave him $4500. LOL He was actually waiting on the approval from the insurance for show-car coverage; having already submitted the build portfolio.

you've got "wood"bring me 2 cords. I'll have $300 cash waiting for ya.. ;)

LOL Yeah yeah yeah.. LOL Yeah, we got 11" at the house, and about 12" a few miles south, where I have a few plow contracts.. It's snowing again, now, and we're supposed to get flogged next week, from what I understand.. Poke fun all you want, Mike. $125/hr, every 2" of snow..

Last night, while plowing. This was after about 4" of the 10-11" total we got..

It was +7*F this morning. Didn't plug it in last night, because it keeps (since recently) tripping the GFI circuit in the garage..Was a little tuff to start, but she fired up. about 30 secs later, high idle engaged. 10-15sec after that, 3cyl engaged; that's the first time I've heard it trigger on it's own! :ahhh:I left it idle for about 10-15min in the driveway. Came out to leave, and the temp needle was still buried on 140 (cold).Oh yeah, I failed to turn off the heater blower when I started the truck.

14k on a 3/4t suspension? whew.. 3.55s with 34" tires is going the wrong direction, if you're looking for pulling power. You "virtually" replaced your 3.55s with like, a 3.23, as your speedo (uncorrected) is about 5-6mph off (reading slow). This should be a solid 3-400rpm lower than OE size tires. I want to replace my 3.55s with 4.10s, but I rarely do more than 65mph, and I tow pretty much constantly during the spring-to-fall months, at ~9000 lbs. Additionally: 3.55:1 axle 1800 rpm 34" tire diameter 1:1 tcase ratio .69 final gear (auto OD) YIELD: 75mph 3.55:1 axle 1800 rpm 31" tire diameter 1:1 tcase ratio .69 final gear (auto OD) YIELD: 68mph A 4:10 diff gear set will drop that 75mph @ 1800 to 64mph @ 1800. Respectively, the 31" tire at 1800rpm would drop the speed from 68 to 59mph. The truck would pull a lot better, imo. The top end would be a lot lower, but I think the more responsiveness and applied torque would outweigh that. At least, it would for me. Remember, that the 3.55 and 4.10 in a D80 axle are different carriers. I think the 3.55 carrier will take up to a 3.73, then above that, requires a different carrier assembly. ---edit--- My truck has the D80 LSD rear. If I were to go with a locker, my first thought it to look at Powertrax. This is because that's what I used in all my rock crawlers, and they performed very well. Albeit noisy, I really liked them. Take into consideration, also, that a locked rear will be more skiddish and a handful to drive in 2WD mode on rainy, snowy, and generally slick conditions on hard surfaces..

Mine doesn't really wander around much, but my steering seems stiff, and laggy.. And like you, input seems way more than should be required, to do even the simplest lane changes, etc.. I've already replaced my track bar, TRE @ pitman, both inner TREs. I know my L/F upper Ball joint is bad, and I've got a new one to replace it, but I've decided to wait until I have all 4, before tackling that job..

That's awesome

Beautiful labs! I'll post pix of mine shortly.

mine wont do that.. LOL

I dont "think" it'll bind, in 2WD.

It's really easy, to be honest... We were just talking about this a couple days ago. Let me see if I can find the link.. --- Update to the previous post... Found it.. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3346-Help-replacing-rear-axle-hub-seal It's not a walkthrough, but it's got some decent info. Seriously, though, the job isn't hard, especially if you have the right axle nut socket. I did mine with a hammer and chisel. ;) Also, a 2.5" socket might be too small. I think it's 2-9/16" that it could also be..

MPG suffers due to the additional rotating mass + "taller" final gear ratio created with a taller tire. When I say additional rotating mass, I mean like my 295-75/16 Hankook DynaPro Rt03s are about 135 lbs each (wheel + tire).

I run the hankook dynapro rt03s. Mine don't rub the PDAs, mine rubbed the fender pinch mold and front liner. Agree on fuel economy suffering, however.

Im well aware.

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:o318Wsos5kryQM:http://www.applehill4x4.com/images/bumper013.jpg&t=1