dripley

All I saw on their site was a 300 dollar kit. Did I miss something?

Damn, another north cacalacian. Built my first Chick fil a there 20 years ago.

Does look good. I dont like being a contortionist either. The body just doesnt bend as well as it used to.

Served you well my friend.

My ears are bad but gunfire does not get me and one thing i have always been at is counting but not before the chickens hatch.

Heater treater. Never looked on Ebay. I am surprised some one has not copied it cheaper though. Not much to it. It did include a 9v battery to index the motor.

Thats the part. It was only $25 when I bought mine. Even pricier now. But I will say if the plastic breaks later the 35 bucks will look more reasonalble. At least thaT is how I looked at it at the time. I hate laying in the floor board with 2/3 of me hanging out of the cab.

For me making 32 pumps to fill a quart bottle would drive me crazy. I have never been that precise. Not knocking it, just my personal prefrence.

Since you have the hvac apart it is a worthwhile thing to add. It is very esy to install while box is out. Much more difficult to do with the box installed. The space is very limited. The part is pricey for what it is but I replaced mine while I had the box out for cheap insurance.

The hazards could be the thingy in the fuse box that makes them blink but I would not think that would cause the truck not to start. This is out my area of knowledge for sure. Hopefully some with more will chime in soon.

Google heater treater and you will see. It replaces a plastic part on the blend door with a metal one and you reindex the motor that drives the door. The plastic part cracks or brakes and throws the door out of whack.

I have quart trans fluid bottles and just eye ball it. It is not a precision dosage, just get it close and if in doubt one more glug cant hurt. If I run bio diesel I will skip the 2 stroke. 5% bio is as good or better than the 2 stroke. The only thing with that is knowing whether you are getting at the pump. A 5% blend and below does not have to be labeled on the pump. I am sure I have run both at the same time over the years with no ill effects.

As I remeber there was none on mine and if that was the case none went back on. But we are using my memory which aint as good as it used to be.

What did they send you for a replacement this last time? 8 months sucks for lomgevity especially getting hung where you did with Rosa Lee.

I had to make some of the foam pieces to size from bigger ones. They just dont have all the right sizes. There several as I remember.

I bought foam at Lowes or HD, don't remember. Just tried to match it with what was in there the best i could. That wss about 4 years ago.

I am with you on the 265s. I can see the advantage towing with the 245s but dont t.wan to increaed the rpm cruising the highway. The Cooper ATPs have done well in the snow. I dont drive in snow a lot but have not struggled in it either.

Did mine recently. Very easy just swapping head. AD warrantied mine fot the second time. Got 4 years out of each one. Got 4g pump this time. Hope it lasts a long time.

They were offered as an option. I got 265s on mine at a small additional price. I have had a steering brace on mine and do not at the moment. I never really noticed much difference either way. Had wander with or without it. But my steering box is nearing the end of its life. So we will slap a Blue Top on it soon and see what happens with that. Mine had the wanders when it was new.

I remember growing up when made in japan was the cheap stuff. Times do change and China has made improvements. And as I said the chinese SKF will be going on the truck soon,

I have to ask this and not knocking what you know but I did buy a SKF carrier bearing and it is made in China. I am not saying every thing from China is junk and this one is going on the truck soon. Just curious if you know where the bearings you speak of come from. I just dont know anymore.

I want to see patch we get to wear after graduation. Reckon a chicken might involved??? @IBMobile surely has one for that.

That was my thought on my starter bolt, i can fell try start but it just wont quite do it. Surely the old bolt not broken off. Yeah, just keep telling yourself that.

My front joints gave up around 325k. My drive shaft joints and carrier bearing are still in tbe truck at 460k. All of them sealed. The truck had all sealed joints,front end and drive line. I will always use sealed as long as I can find them and they appear to be quality. Just not sure how you can tell that for sure. I did find 3 new old stock u joints for the drive shaft but have not found a carrier bearing like that or I would have bought that too. Even the front lasted about 240k. Even the MOOG front end parts are mstill holding at 220k. They are not sealed by the way. But they were purchased before Federal Mogul bought them out.

I feel your laughter!!!