dripley

Thats because he got a Dakota and not a Jeep. Though it would not surprise me if they shared drive trains.

What kind of lift pump do you have? Can you hear it running? 0 fuel pressure would worry me, unless its gelled. But sounds as if it is not since fuel came out of the filter houseing and sounds as if the suuply to the VP is not gelled if reading this right. What vuel pressure do you normally see? Cold start in cold weather will produce blue smoke, but it is plugged in all night. Bad VP will produce blue smoke also and you have a 216 code. But it would not hurt to try and warm it up and be sure it is not the pump but gelled fuel.

I used the picture as much or more than explanation as to why. Some of the expanations are a bit over my haed. That made it easier for me. I trusted his info and just used the pictures.

Thats the problem. There is no adjustment. My bearing starting several years back andI actually shortened the slave rod trying to adjust until I got home. It was still making contact after cutting a quarter inch off. I did make home however. Screeching the whole way.

you and me both. Mine is weeping a little and last time I had the pump off it was not and I let if aint broke dont fix it rule apply.

That connector tube tool is just a nut that will thread on the tubes after they are removed. Not sure why they include it. They will pop out easily with a screw driver. It wont f them up the steel in those is extremely hard and the threads are only there for removal of the tubes. When you install the injectors be sure to snug up you fuel lines to the cross over tubes before you tighten the injector hold downs. This will align the tubes in the injector and save you some leak headaches.

Well got off to late to go by @Manimalmother's shop Friday. Did manage to get ip with my son go to his employer's shop. I tried too attack from the top. Removed the bell crank, intake horn and fuel filter canister. Had a wide open view of the bolt hole just could not get a straight angle for the drill. A small air drill might have worked but we did not have one. So I pulled the starter and went in from underneath while my son helped fron the top to line up the drill better. Almost dead centered that sucker. Drilled it, stuck an easy out in it and out she came. The new bolts have much wider flanges on them compared to the OE ones and clamped down on the broken eared one well enough to hold so we are going to roll the dice a little for now. The bolts also got a nice stripe of lock tite this time. Another big thanks to @Manimalmother for his offer of space and help.

Welcome.

The isolater just masks the issue. A quick check of your alternator will help to diagnose this. It takes longer to walk outside, open the hood and start the engine than it does to do the test. Many a rebuilt alternator will fail the test out of the box. WT's ground mod will also reduce the noise if this is your issue. It is also very simple and inexpensive to do.

For my money I would replace whenever the VP is off, with in reason any way. The gasket is not expensive.

I had almost 240k on my oe injectors when I swapped them. The truck still ran good, mileage never dropped off and I just did not know any better back then. The set I have in now are my third set and you tell they are falling off. I am putting another set in with the HG replacement. I used the articles here and on Blue chip diesels site when I first did mine. I was a bit apprehensive myself, but it is pretty much a bolt off bolt on part. My son and I did it in 4.5 hours. My son is no mechanic but the extra pair of hands and company was nice. I have had it out twice since and just did it myself. Making sure the woodruff key is set right in the shaft was the part that worried me the most but it all turned out fine. I read the articles several times and had them there with us.

Mine will be a BT also from what all i have read and heard of him. Went to adjust mine last weekend. Turned the adjuster just over a quarter turn and it bottomed out. But after 460k I aint complaining.

@IBMobile is another one who can help with that. It is definitely over my head.

There is a ground splice in the harness near the VP and another 5v splice for most of the sensors closer to the ECM. The oil pressure sensor and MAP are on a seperate 5v. My problem was the MAP. But strange part was I found a break in the other 5v circuit for the balance of the sensors, but when I fixed that my MAP sensor problem was fixed. I never had any problems with the other sensors. Since I am an electrical midget I cannot explain this I just know it worked.

Does your Edge not boost fool?

The cable is actually black with a tan tracer and comes from the splice on the drivers side of the motor. The is the ECM ground plus about 4 others. WT's ground mod is the way to go. It shortens all the major grounds and will help with AC voltage. Easy to do and very much worthwhile. My AC voltage dropped from 0.035 to 0.01. Simple to do.

I figure it is the 3/8 pick up in the fuel basket. Thats what my AD came with for the in tank pump replacement kit that came with the AD 165II I bought 8 years ago.. The 4 psi drop has never bothered me as long it stayed at 14 or more. I would turn it down some but I just dont see any need to.

I wont disagree 20 or below is good for a high pressure but you still have to have it high enough to see 14 or more for a low pressure. Mine sits at 20.5 at idle and about 16 as a low pressure. One day I will turn it down a bit, but for now I am not worried. Several folks here run above 20 regularly. so 20.5 or 21 seems to me not to be an issue.

If that stays pretty constant for the week back it off some and see how that settles in. Mine has always been a bit wonky till you let settle in. Dont know why, but a weekly or even bi weekly will find the pressure you are looking for. Just be sure to keep the low side at 14 to 15 and you will be good.

I would advise to let it be for now and settle in. Mine seemed to move around a little on the first pump. 21 psi is not going to hurt anything at all. I dicked around with first one several times until it settled in. As I stated 21 psi hurts nothing. The most important pressure in the 14 psi you want to equal or surpass at WOT. That will keep the VP happy, along with some 2 stroke oil. Mine sits at 20.5 psi and all is good.

If it was up your arse you would know where it was. Sorry, i could not resist that one.

You sound as busy as me. I will see what I can work out on my schedule tomorrow. From your shops decription maybe we can build a nuclear powered Cummins!!!!

Cant tell you how much I appreciate this offer. What time frame could we do this if I can get by? I would not be driving thru until the 1 to 2 oclock range Friday. I have all day Saturday or Sunday. Do you machine cylinder heads at your shop? I am in need of having that work done in the near future, weepy head gasket.

Mine is the same. You can touch it any where except the cook top when it is on. I can turn the oven up to 500 degrees and still place my hands on the sides of it. When pushed it back in I smelled gas and it was late, so i just turned the gas off for the night. The next morning I pulled it out and checked the connections for leaks and found none. When i was pushed it back in I started smelling gas again. While bent over the stove I plugged it in and imediately heard the ignighter clicking. I looked down just in time to see the 4 burner ignite whilst I was leaning over it. Turned out I was rubbing and turning the knobs and that was the gas I was smelling. I have one very lint free shirt now.

I was thing about @JAG1 on this one since he is a fellow wood butcher. We put new cabinets in the kitchen a good while back and had 6" space needed filling. The spice rack the manufacturer offered back then was about $600. I said no way and built my own. So here it is. I hate the drawer pull but wife would not let me put a door pull on it. All in all it still turned out nice and I only have $75 in it.