dripley

Damn good to hear!!!

Just did that one myself. If you are so sure the connector tubes have never been done then I am thinking neither have the injectors. If I get far enough in to change those orings I am not that far away from doing an injector swap. Got any idea how many miles are on the injectors?

The CAD will be on the passanger side of the axle. Rectangular in shape with vacuum lines attached. I do not know what is on the non CAD axle. @Mopar1973Man has a non CAD and could add something.

Might not be a bad idea along with the injectors if they both have been a long time being replaced. Are you the original owner?

Is the bag bouncing with you or did they pull the tube?

The nuts that hold the fuel lines to the head do not seal anything. They just apply pressure to the fuel lines and connector tubes. That is where the seal occurs. The oring on the connector tubes provides a seal for the return fuel galleys in the head. If one starts leaking the nut wiil not stop the leak. The threads for the nut are not tapered and will let fuel by if either seal fails.

Does your 02 have the CAD axle? Some late 02's do not. My early 02 does.

Check your fuellines where they bolt to the head. A leak there will run off the back of yhe engine. A small leak will take a while to run off the back of the engine.

I got admit I thought that was some kind of built up crud on the outside and not rust. Was not thinking metal as part of the assembly. I would definitely replace it.

That is one nasty sum beach there. It does appear to be an oe basket. 12v or not I dont know. I suppose you could clean it up and get it to function properly again, but I am not sure I would try. What does the inside of the fuel tank look like? It might need a good cleaning too. Are you running homemade fuel thru it? Apparently the screens are completely plugged if it is holding fuel and there appears to be a lot of clogging crud in the fuel. If the fuel want drain out it would follow the fuel cannot get in. The other basket you have posted appears to be an in tank pump basket, just like the one I have, minus the pump. I removed the pump from mine many years ago while installing the AD, If it were me I would replace it as long as you have some filtration prior to your lift pump.

@AH64ID did a great explaining it even for me who has never touched a CR truck. I just got to add a little more knowledge to the noggin. And thats a good thing.

I like that. Glad you explained it.

I had crispy chicken tacos for supper the other night and chicken salad in the refer. Chickens are good in more ways than one. I was more curious if there is something different internally in the CR engines that made them more susceptible to failure than a VP engine. Or is the fuel delivery system more at fault or both?

Are they differences to the CR engines compared to the VP trucks contributing to this? I ask since you only mention CR engines in your post.

I choose lateral. I'll help him with one one day.

Sitting good, real good for that much hanging out the back.

When mine hit me on the road trip it was over a week before I could see a urologist. That 10 days did not end fast enough. The uroligist removed it and fortunately they schediled for for the surgery 3 days later and I did not have have reinstalled. Still thinking about you two and wishing you well.

Yes that 85 pounds was standard drywall not the light weight.

1 sheet of 4 x 12 1/2 weighs about 85 pounds so 40 would go 3400 lbs. So you will have a good bit of weight on the tail gate. I have in a short bed layed 3 12 foot 2 x4 s in the bed and put the sheetrock on top to help with the weight on the tailgate. The most I have put in my bed was 2 cubes of brick at around 5000 5500 lbs. Hardly knew it was it there. But I was able to put one i front of the axle and the other on the axle. Like you say yours will be a bit different with that much hanging out the back. I also hauled a bed full of 16 foot 2 x 6s upto the top of the bed with several sheets of plywood on top of that. Really dont know how much all that weighed. Did not have to go far with it either. It was abit light in the front but carried it ok.

I am with you on this one. I went onto Bosche's. Web site and never could find them offering a new pump , did not spend a lot of time though. Figured they would be pricier than I wanted to see even if they had one. I have 242k on my reman right now and still seems to be going strong. Though I have read here from some folks with crazy high numbers on their oe VPs though. Mine only went 75k. My oe lift pump out lasted it by 75k more. But I dont have a clue as to what pressure it was putting out. The only time I checked was when I put the Banks system on at 100k. It was putting out a massive 10 psi at idle. That was all the instructions said I needed. I was happy and drove it till she let go 150k. The replacement VP survived it and lasted another 65k.

X's four here.

Me, I always thought it was the one I wanted. Back in 98 I bought quick and did not find a Cummins and settled for a V10. Fun truck to drive as long as you did not stopping at alot gas stations. But when she dropped a valve thru number 10 piston, I went and bought the 02. Even with the issues that I have had, I have never regretted the choice or the learning experience U have been thru with it.

DAP has them with a 2 year warranty also for about 100 bucks more. Tapping will void the warranty. He also has one for about 1500 bucks that you can tap with out voiding the warraty. His are from Industrial and Midwest injection IIRC. I dont know who AZ gets there from.

Thats one of the 2 that does not mention new or reman. The core makes me believe it is a reman. Warrany is good but pricey. Wonder who does rebuild???

That would be helpful. I have heard of new pumps out there but more in the $3000 + range with no core. I am not used to putting up a core charge on a new anything. I looked on AZ's website and they had a few listed, some identified as remans and 2 that were not identified as reman or new.