dripley

A code reader should read the codes with or without a cel being lit. They might think that but be every code reader I have seen will display the codes that are stored. Timing is done with the injection of fuel into the cylinder. That is done thru the injection pump. It is a bit more involved but I would defer to the more knowledgeable for an explanation. The waste gate is on the turbo charger. It regulates the pressure you can build. A stock WG opens around 20 psi. If it is stuck open you can build no boost and the computer will not add fuel so the truck will run like a dog but will get up to speed although slowly. I dont feel thats your issue since it disappears when fully warm. Again others can explain it better than me. Is the truck a stick or auto? It may be stuck in limp mode for some reason. The trouble codes will help a lot.

@Mopar1973Man took the words out of my mouth. This is the way to get started.

I dont get into NAPA much but Lowe's is infested with a sea of red.

I have struggled with surging in the past, sometimes with a code and others not. Even with TPS codes it never turned out to be the TPS. Mine was a bad 5v wire splice. I cant help but think yours is a connection or bad wire where ever they worked.

You need to check for trouble codes. That in itself will help save money, Gives you somewhere to start from.

You could pull the valve cover znd have a look with engine running. You might can see fuel leaking around an injector. Maybe pull a couple and see if the orings have flattened out where they meet the bore.

Many thanks to @IBMobile for reminding us of our age. Technology sure has changed over the years The clear coat is gone off of the horizontal surfaces too. Sits out in the weather every day. Probably going to experiment with painting on mine one day.

The only problem i had with a similar set on mine was lowers. It did not come with a receiver cup cut on the right angle to fit the knuckle. I had to beat them out. It was fine for installing them though. I did not have cut any of the studs either but maybe mine were deeper. I guess you will see when you do it like @Dieselfuture says.

Try this 3963983. They are 12mm for 12v and 24v fuel system banjo bolts. With the oil growing you might need some new o rings. Do you know how many miles yours have on them?

I have to say I am happy with the repair. Smoke is greatly diminished and my mileage is back. Got to do a good highway run and I am back to 19.5 at speed. 75 mph that is. This is after seeing 17 to 17.5 mpg with the leak. But on a different note while coming back from the Charleston SC last weekend I blew a heater hose. First look under the hood made me think the head gasket let go and all the other bad thoughts that just come to mind after a big repair. But fortunately is was just a heater hose. Is 18 years to long to ask a hose to last?

Beakless huh?? Not sure FASS has a cure for that.

Apparently they dont have ECM's for ghe Cummins. At least I couldnit find one. Do you know if any one who has used them?

Try the solution in the thread. Seems to work.

I over fill as well and beleive the 6th gear bearing is the one that is suppose benefit from it. I started doing yhis after loosing 4th in the oe trans. I can owner neglect on this one and not keeping track of the fluid level. The current one has about 288k on it and still works pretty well. IIRC the owners states you dont have to change the fluid, just keep it topped off. Not sure I agree with that though.

What in the world made this cat loose control? Looks like traffic is stopping up in front of him but he seems to have plenty of room to stop also.

The truck doesn't bother, now the the lawn mower is bit different.

There is a fuel system relay in the PDC. Pull it and the engine will shut down.

the drainage ditch in front of my house leans it over enough for 2 full quarts above the filler hole and maybe more. Never tried to go any more. When I park on it there the passenger wheels are 2.5 feet below the drivers wheels. Leaned over pretty good.

I cant knock putting it in from the top, but it takes me a minute to move the truck to side hill and 4 more minutes to squeeze the extra in, replace the plug and move the truck back, done. I dont mind going the top route especially when all the parts around the shifter need a major cleaning.

That dog sure can shoot. Beautiful country too.

You both ok?

No on the injector. Not sure why you would find 2 on the old injectors unless you left one of the old ones in the last time you changed them. I take it this was happening before changing the ignition swithc? Something is not cutting 12v to the engine. This is where it gets over my head.

I usually fill mine to the hole then park on a side hill in the yard and put an quart or more. 1 full quart and whatever is left from filling to the hole. I dont believe there is any where for oil to remain in the tranny when its drained. Its not like an engine block. Just my thoughts anyway.

Is the temp reading correctly on the gauge?

But i can only to 34 at WOT. But let clutch out and you're doing 40 before it's fully engaged. 4th gear launch required. 2 reason I did not do mine that way. The main was I had just installed the new dash pad and could not make myself drill a hole in it. The second was i got usdd to it at the windsheild and can see it just fine. But I like yours too.