trreed

Believe it or not, that boot stayed on. The one that blew off was from the secondary to the charge pipe.

Quick update. Threw in new valve springs and an interstage boost gauge, so I can get the wastegate on the secondary dialed in. I guess if I have the primary in its happy spot and still blow a boot off at half throttle I'm doing something right...

@JP907ATB i thought you told me that putting a 2.7k ohm resistor in the plug allowed the truck to idle normally. Now the reading doesn't change?

I have had no issues with anything getting pinched or cut. I don't disconnect any of the tail light wiring and I've never messed with the spare tire rod. Maybe I've been lucky, but I've had the bed up like that at least half a dozen times.

My experience: lifting the bed is super easy. I do have a short bed. What I do is starting at the front of the bed (rear of the cab) and remove the first 4 bolts and the ground strap. Then on the two rear most bolts, I take them about halfway loose but leave them in the holes, so the bed is essentially hinged. Then its a matter of not forgetting my filler neck (which I did last time) and removing the chain loops for my gooseneck. For raising it, I am capable of lifting the bed myself, but it's always nice to have someone else. Then I prop it up on a 6' metal rod and i have plenty of room to work

It might be the sender going out. Just a thought.

I use those bulbs as my tail/brake lights where they're hidden lol. They are bright as hell. I can see them reflecting off street signs 1/2 a mile behind me when the brakes or turn signal is on. They also sell those on the shelves at Advance Auto.

Yes. That's the beauty of the V2 tuning. And then if you ever step up in turbo or injector size again, it's easy to retune again. Sorry, got all excited and responded before all the other responses loaded.

I think the CR trucks main injection event maxes at 19*. The preinjection event can be up to 50*

I think this is gonna depend on the truck again. My truck doesn't have any issue with 26* at 85 mph, but I average 17.5 mpg at those speeds. I start to see negative torque issues above that. Who knows how it would react to the ability to have 40*?

Good on them for finding a way to eliminate the EGR! Almost a throwback to the VP44 trucks that met the emissions standards of the time without a cat, or the late model, emission free 5.9's The start/stop feature seems like it will bring some premature maintenance to items if the motor isn't properly cooled first.

My ex has a set of Michelin LTX2's on her truck and she regularly tows a (almost overloaded) 4 horse/front tack trailer and those tires have worn really well. She had a set of BFG All-Terrain ko's (the originals) and those wore really well too but have been phased out.

I've seen 30 psi right before the thermostat opens in my cooling system, and that's testing at the back of the head

See if the shop will magna-flux and pressure test the head. That'll let you know if it's an issue.

Mike did your truck do anything goofy when you noticed this issue? Thankfully it seemed to stay contained to mine and Nick's truck until he was able to figure out a fix.

I've had the pup for a few days now, and he seems to be getting the hang of everything very quickly, but he does what he wants still, and we're working on that. He sure doesn't like the sound of my truck firing up.

I do no such thing! And @notlimah it helps that I went back to a straight pipe too.

Got the compounds in the truck with thanks to @TFaoro. Man do they sound nice!

Oh just go for it.

@Dieselfuture you can also poke fun at the point he's looking like that driving a Passat...

Either one will read codes for you. You'll probably make more selling the smarty on one of the facebook groups than the SC2.

I second the bluetooth version. I have an iPhone and the wifi module wasn't that great at connecting. The bluetooth is fantastic. Also, I believe the Smarty tire correction factor won't work unless a Smarty tune is loaded (right guys?)

If my 2nd gen every got wrecked and the motor was ok I'd do this swap in a heartbeat. I'm thinking 07 F350 King Ranch...

How does he manage this? Did he find a super set of VE governor springs? Or manage to somehow under drive the pump by more than 1/2 but keep the firing order of the pump and pistons synchronized?

I've run both of those turbos. I have slightly larger injectors than you do (by a whole half of a thou!). Currently running the 62/68/12, and with the v2 tuning, spooling after a shift is no problem. I can get it spooled to 10 psi by 1700 rpm with ~25-30% throttle position as a single. If you ask Jacob, he'll say "the SXE line isn't the end all that everyone thought it was" and "the 68mm wheel seems to limit itself to 550 hp", but, it has been a robust turbo for me that has held up to moderate abuse. The reason I went to the 62/68 over the 62/65 was to have a bit more top end over the 65 wheel. Was there any gain? The butt dyno says there was, and the boost gauge picked up 7 psi at the max. But the butt dyno isn't necessarily reliable. Just my experience with it. Since you tow heavier than I do, you might consider the 65mm wheel to spool *just that* much quicker than the 68 wheel, but the Adrenaline will allow you to spool either turbo relatively easy by adjusting the CANBus percentages. Just my thoughts.