IBMobile

You probably have a small leak at the evaporator (heat exchanger inside) and/or the O-rings at the connections are 'dried out'. The best way would be to leak test the system, reclaim, repair, evacuate and recharge with the proper amount cost about $80-$? depending on what's leaking or for about $20+ you can top it off yourself. It's not hard to recharge/top up the A/C system, but best to use a pressure gauge so you can see if there is a problem with the expansion valve or compressor and all so not to over charge the system. If it's cool now you probably need 1 12oz can to top it off but with pressure gauges you can use the chart below to get close to max fill. Walmart sells recharge cans with low pressure gauge. http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/r134a-recharge-kits

You can see the solder pulled away from the pin connectors on the board from all of the hot/cold cycles. I re-solder them, put the case back together an seal it with clear RTV.

After I cut Volvo ABS control modules open for repair I reseal them with clear RTV. I've never had a problem with water infiltration.

So no lose of power or hard starting? Looks like you've taken care of fuel delivery and air intake should not be a problem. That leaves compression and camshaft timing/profile. Sounds almost like a gasser with a mild race cam.

Heated and cooled cup holders! You're right, it does have everything. I got to get me some of those. It's a clean looking ride. I can't own a car like that, I'd have to many speeding tickets. Have fun with it.

If it had been stolen here, 50 minuets later it would be in Tijuana driven by some "bato".

Just past my Federally mandated biannual physical for my CDL. I'm good for another 2 years to tow doubles in CA.

What I've found is I'll drain a lot more fluid if the vehicle has sat over night. This allows the fluid in the trans body to drain into the pan for 12+ hours. You can get up to an extra quart out of it.

Volvo is owned by Chinese carmaker Zhejiang Geely Holding Group since 2010

SAY IT AIN' T SO

I've been over filling Dana 1030 and 1031 for over 45 years and I haven't seen one leak because of it. I know not the same as a Dana 60, 70 or 80 but just saying.

If the fuse, relay and wires (ohm and volt test) are good and a new solenoid installed, I'd put in a mystery switch and bypass the PCM and force the lockup. If that doesn't make it lock up then it's probably a bad torque converter clutch or low pressure to the clutch.

Looks like what you need to do is just reseal the area where the wires go through. I'd try this: clean thoroughly and clean again the area in question with brake clean and acetone, you want any fuel, oil and grease gone, rough surface with sand paper for better bond. Coat with J-B Weld™. Sets in 4-6 hr and cures in 15-24 hr. There's J-B® Kwick Weld™ that sets in 6 minutes and cures in 4-6 hr.

From: My Brain to Yours Wire Service Date Line: Washington D.C. By: IBMobile In the aftermath of July,14th truck terror attack in Nice, France the Congresswoman Ida Gutahafmine D-RI introduced a bill in the House of Representatives to register all large trucks and have a special license to operate them. Also proposed in the bill would be the removal of all assault trucks from all roads and fuel tanks limited to 10 gallons. When the Honorable Gutahafmine was informed that all trucks are now registered, operators have a commercial driver's license, there is no such thing as an assault truck and interstate commerce would come to a stand still with a 10 gallon limit , She was heard to say "never mind".

Looks the same as mine less the nick. If there is no or barely any movement of the shaft side to side with no oil leaks than don't worry about it.

HOW THE PROGRESIVES THINK HOW THE CONSERVATIVES THINK

If the compressor wheel touches the housing then the bushings/bearings are worn and that translates into excessive radial movement and the turbo needs to be rebuilt. Some rebuilders deem the core non-rebuild able if the compressor wheel gouges the housing. You can make a feeler gauge out of a strip of plastic sanded to the thickness you need. An oil jug and a coolant antifreeze side wall is .038-.034" and .017-.019" respectively. You'll need a micrometer or caliper for measuring. Axial end play is the movement of the shaft in and out. Don't worry about the axial end play for now.

I think you may have worn bearings and to much radial play. See no. 5 below.

You get what you pay for. Your truck has gone this long with out it, don't be in a hurry and get the good stuff.

part #R038M-P ⅜" line http://www.magnefinefilters.com/Magnefine-3-8-Magnetic-Inline-Power-Steering-Filter-R038M-P.htm I couldn't find the Autozone filter you've mention but just because they look the same doesn't mean they're the same inside.

There is no T fitting on a 2001 dodge power steering/hydroboost system. There are two separate return lines to the PS reservoir. The PS return line flows more fluid, that's where I'd put it. I didn't notice the bypass

They are rated for class III/IV hitches and I've never hear of one failing.

Power steering fluid flows under high pressure to and through the hydro boost to the power steering gear. When the brake peddle is applied the spool valve moves to allow pressurized PS fluid into the power chamber and still maintain pressurized fluid to the steering gear. The spool valve moves only about ¼" and very little PS fluid flows through it to the return line and back to the PS reservoir. If the return line from the hydro boost is blocked the brakes will self apply while the brake peddle is free. If the PS gear return line to the PS reservoir is blocked the pressure in the system will increase until the pressure relief valve opens. There will still be pressure to the hydro boost.