IBMobile

You're welcome. So much info, my eyes started to glaze over and my mind turned to mush.

If you want to know about batteries check out this link. http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/index.htm

the spring washer in the picture still looked good. If it still puts pressure on the bushing then use it.

This you tube video may help you out. It's from a 94 truck but 95% of all rear brakes are the same. While your in there you may want to change out the brake cylinders to the GMC type for a 50% increase in rear brake power. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlkHAB38BxM

The problem with using WD-40 or solvents is it evaporates in a few days. You might as well rub diesel fuel on them. Try a little test by taking a peace of metal (sheet metal would work good) put a solvent (paint thinner), WD-40, diesel fuel and a light coating of engine oil. Set the sheet metal in the garage for a week and see what's left. I bet it'll be the engine oil. By the way, one of my customer's worked for WD-40 here in San Diego. He told me the main ingredient is cut kerosene.

I don't think you need any lube on the rod where It meets the master. I've never put lube on any I've ever done. I never put any on the push rod in a brake booster when changing a master cylinder. I was thinking along the same lines as KATOOM. Over the years I've used a thin coating of white lithium grease with no problems.

No It shouldn't. Years ago I work on a brake system that someone put ATF in the brake fluid reservoir. The master leaked and the brake hoses had ballooned up. Replaced everything but the hard brake lines.

I take it the grease is just on the out side of the master. Try spraying it with brake cleaner. Brake cleaner will not harm the rubber parts but don't get it into the fluid reservoir. I think you may dodge the bullet.

Remember: A used tool never rusts and a rusted tool never works. I just wipe the tools off an put them away. The only tools I have a problem with are the impact sockets because they are not chrome plated and I do get caught out in the rain once in a while.

People like me are glad there are people like you to do those jobs.

Have the engine start running rough in my plane at 10,000' and I'm flying over mountains.

Get the design done and go with two common sizes L and XL. Have production run on the other sizes when pre orders reach the amount needed to justify the expense.

When I installed my gauges the exhaust temp didn't work at all. Called the company that sold it to me and told them the problem. They sent me another exhaust gauge kit and I changed out the amplifier box. It's been working great now for 12 years.

↓ Four on the A post. ↓

The makers of these oiled filters don't tell consumers the problems they can produce. The oil that comes off the filter can coat the sensors and cause erroneous readings. These readings will diminish power and fuel economy, increase tail pipe emissions and cause poor drivability to the point the engine will not stay running. These problems readily occur not so much in the diesel engine but in vehicles with air mass meters.

The way I see it, you have to answer several questions. Do I need the extra power the tap gives me or can I drive/tow all right with the lower power setting? Do I want to spend the money ($1500) for more power but only have a 1 year warranty? Would a $1050 pump with a 2 year warranty, that can still be tapped later, fit my needs?

You lucky dog! That's one nice weapon. I'd like to find something like that in my car port. Instead I find things like this. ↓ Got to love the grand kids. Hello Kitty just doesn't cut it.

Why not put a manual torque convertor lock-up switch until the problem can be resolved, if ever. I'm not having any problem with my trans now but I do have a lock-up switch, I use when towing, with automatic disengagement when the brake peddle is depressed. It works great

There's a few lakes like that around here: Lake No Fish, Lake I Wish I Could Catch A Fish and Lake Don't Bother. That's a bucket load! Sounds like none stop action. Ya, fishing better than work but even better when you're catching a 'boat load'. I take it that there is no limit on perch at that lake.

Why, yes I do. This ones for you!

Happy to hear the gauge pulled your bacon out of the fire. It could be the thicker fuel due to the extreme cold in your area put a load on the pump which in turn increased the amp draw on a marginal pump causing the fuse to blow. If it happens again do an amp draw test. ↓ Did he look like this ↓

What's the difference between weather prognosticators and politicians? Not much, they both very seldom get it right. ↓ In the park next to my house this morning.

O'K I'll rub it in, 73° on it way to 83° I don't have on of those fancy weather thermometer so I use Weather Underground. https://www.wunderground.com/us/ca/san-marcos?

I won't eat them but they are the only thing you can catch in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. So it's catch and release for me.

Main relay is in the ABS control module. Without any other diagnostics to go by, the module needs repair/rebuild.