IBMobile

Maybe the gasket on the cap has gone bad.

It is grounded to the passenger battery through splice S109. You may want to check the grounds there or modify them like this article below.

This is repairing the ground splices, not the ones at the back of the timing cover, that go to the right side battery. This was missed in the W-T modification. It is an extra repair step in improving the deficient Dodge wire harness. You may also look into adding an inline fuse to the blue wire that goes from the alternator to the PCM for PCM protection. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/alternator-and-pcm-protection-r617/

Is this the chicken you're talking about?

I've seen the future.

@JAG1 wood pile after one hour. I think the wood pile will kill him before the CCP virus does.

Maybe the meter is reading right and it is showing an open circuit in that part of the test.

Wrong!!! You full stroke that thing all day long. No problem with rust in the bore; just worn out seals.

The place was packed from Thursday thru Sunday. Every camp site was taken with the overflow campers going to the meadow; that's why we go in May and October. . Some people had masks on but most didn't. If I didn't have may grandsons with me I would have left. This is the area that you camp in and have to your self.

Not everyone does their maintenance in as timely a manner as you and may only bleed the brake system when replacing a brake component; hence the warning about full stroking the brake pedal when flushing the system.

We go to the same sports bar for pizza and beer.

I vacuum bleed the brake fluid and wrap the threads of the nipples with teflon tape. I've seen 3 brake master cylinders go bad from full stroking the brake pedal; do it at your own risk.

Did one the end of may on a 1998 ram 1500; used Permatex mirror adhesive. I saw the truck this last weekend and it's still hanging on. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/permatex-4569/hardware---fasteners-16585/body---trim-16771/mirrors-25093/mirror-glue-17603/95a2ce74b692/permatex-0-01-ounce-mirror-adhesive/81844/4610264/2000/dodge/ram-2500?q=int81844erior+rear+view+mirror+adhesive+pad&pos=5

!SCORE!

Hot wire the injection pump. If it starts and runs then look to the ECM or power to the VP, or...

Have you done any diagnostics? Have you tried running with out the Quadzilla to see if that's giving ant interference.

All those codes are relater to either the ECM or the wire harness. See FSM pages 8W-30-32 through 8W-30-34.

@Mopar1970manAdd a top banner in the site to let people know that you have them for sale in the store.

There is the chance of a faulty alternator and a bench test would show that problem; but how many of140amp alternator fuses in the PDC have we heard about blowing? None that I can recall. So, I'm thinking It is an inferior circuit breaker and high heat can exacerbate the problem.

If the ECM lift pump circuit is ok wire in an electric lift pump this way. This is what I came up with if the ECM lift pump circuit failed and the the other ECM functions are OK.

I agree with @Tractorman that the breaker might be weak. When I was doing the charge line protection part of the W-T mod some members went with a fuse due to certain circuit breakers being of poor quality and tripping prematurely. I opted for a 150 amp inline fuse with a spare in the glove box.

Looks good...where are you headed to? Remember, pack the heavy stuff in the front of the trailer for better stability. I'll be leaving next week for the Sierra Nevada MT's with the Boss and my two grandsons.

Check the blend door motor: battery voltage (>12V) at pin #1 DB (dark blue) wire. 0 to <12 volts at pin #2 YL/OR (yellow with orange tracer) wire when turning the heater control knob. <10 ohms at pin #3 between BK/LG (black with light green tracer) and ground. If all above are good then either the motor is bad or the door is stuck.