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We go to the same sports bar for pizza and beer.

I vacuum bleed the brake fluid and wrap the threads of the nipples with teflon tape. I've seen 3 brake master cylinders go bad from full stroking the brake pedal; do it at your own risk.

Did one the end of may on a 1998 ram 1500; used Permatex mirror adhesive. I saw the truck this last weekend and it's still hanging on. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/permatex-4569/hardware---fasteners-16585/body---trim-16771/mirrors-25093/mirror-glue-17603/95a2ce74b692/permatex-0-01-ounce-mirror-adhesive/81844/4610264/2000/dodge/ram-2500?q=int81844erior+rear+view+mirror+adhesive+pad&pos=5

!SCORE!

Hot wire the injection pump. If it starts and runs then look to the ECM or power to the VP, or...

Have you done any diagnostics? Have you tried running with out the Quadzilla to see if that's giving ant interference.

All those codes are relater to either the ECM or the wire harness. See FSM pages 8W-30-32 through 8W-30-34.

@Mopar1970manAdd a top banner in the site to let people know that you have them for sale in the store.

There is the chance of a faulty alternator and a bench test would show that problem; but how many of140amp alternator fuses in the PDC have we heard about blowing? None that I can recall. So, I'm thinking It is an inferior circuit breaker and high heat can exacerbate the problem.

If the ECM lift pump circuit is ok wire in an electric lift pump this way. This is what I came up with if the ECM lift pump circuit failed and the the other ECM functions are OK.

I agree with @Tractorman that the breaker might be weak. When I was doing the charge line protection part of the W-T mod some members went with a fuse due to certain circuit breakers being of poor quality and tripping prematurely. I opted for a 150 amp inline fuse with a spare in the glove box.

Looks good...where are you headed to? Remember, pack the heavy stuff in the front of the trailer for better stability. I'll be leaving next week for the Sierra Nevada MT's with the Boss and my two grandsons.

Check the blend door motor: battery voltage (>12V) at pin #1 DB (dark blue) wire. 0 to <12 volts at pin #2 YL/OR (yellow with orange tracer) wire when turning the heater control knob. <10 ohms at pin #3 between BK/LG (black with light green tracer) and ground. If all above are good then either the motor is bad or the door is stuck.

The last one I did was @JAG1 's work truck where we pulled the dash and HVAC box out. Before disconnected the wiring and vent hoses: turn the ignition switch to the on position set the heater knob to the 12 o'clock position, straight up and down then turn the ignition off once the door has rotated; about 30 seconds. This will "index" the blend door and motor to the middle position and make it easier to work with out getting the door hung up on a side when putting it back together.

Yes, driving the salt covered roads of Connecticut and then letting it sit will cause those parts to rust up. Can you tell what side it's coming from? Take that side off and inspect. Check that the backing plate isn't close enough to rub on the disk when they warm up. With the disk off have someone set the park brake while you watch the action.

Parts from the Ram 1500 will work.

You could say my shopping trips are short. I can see the parking lot lights of Costco from my driveway and there is a Walmart next to it. To haul those cases of what ever "The Boss" buys from there we use a 1995 Volvo wagon. And, with all the room you could want.

Would you be able to duplicate the problem if the rear wheels were off the ground, rear axle on jack stands with front tires blocked. Better yet, do it with the rear end jacked up with the tires off and use a length of 3/8 fuel or vacuum hose, about 3' long, as a stethoscope.

Look in the 2001 Dodge Ram FSM, page 883.

Barrel of oil price has been down for a long time. The other oil products should have dropped in price too but...