IBMobile

I have two scanners that I use and on will give me codes with live data from the ECM and the other will only give me codes with no live data. I think it's the protocol set up between the scanner and the Cummins ECM.

You can apply dielectric grease on the connections or you can redo the ground wire from the PCM to the passenger (right) side battery like I did below. IBMobile ASE Certified Master Auto Technician Board Of Directors 1,635 1,821 posts San Marcos, CA Report post (IP: 75.39.180.178) Posted May 28, 2018 I finally got around to cleaning up the ground wire splices for the PCM this week end. It's not hard and took very little time to do. NOTE: Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. You need: 2 10-12 gauge butt connectors 2 1/4 heat shrink tube 2" long rosin core solder 140 watt solder gun (Weller) or small butane torch roll of electrical tape razer knife wire cutters wire striper Remove air cleaner housing this will open up the whole area to work in. No need to disconnect the batteries, just unplug the gray connector at the ground wires of the right (AUX) battery. The other gray connector has already been disconnected when the ground wires were relocated to the back of the timing cover. Disconnect the 3 plugs at the PCM Cut and strip the 8 gauge wire then cut the connector off the 10 gauge wire and strip it back to fit the butt connector. This is the connection with the cove off. This is splice #S109 that the grounds for the ECM, PCM, VP44, grid heater relay and data link connector. Slide the heat shrink on to the wire were it won't be affected by the heat of soldering. Remove any plastic covering on the butt connector, insert the wires into the connector and solder. Let cool then cove with the heat shrink. At the PCM find the two 14 gauge black with tan stripe wires. They go up into the split wire cover about 10" that's were you'll find splice #S126 There are two 14 gauge black with tan strip wires coming down to the connector. One is the ground for the data link connector and the other is not used. Repeat the cut, strip and solder process as above. When done it should look like this. 1 1 dripley and JAG1 reacted to this Quote Edit Options 2000 2500 quadcab, lwb, 4.10 ls, auto, edge ez, manual boost controller, RV275 injectors, 4" s/s magnaflow, fuel boss pump, BHAF,cold air box, issapro: trans temp, boost, egt, fp on A pillar, mystery switch, wife riding shotgun.

Pin #11 of the ECM is the common sensor ground for: the water in fuel sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, intake air temperature sensor, and engine oil pressure sensor. There is a common splice point in the harness for this black with light blue tracer wire. When ohm testing between the #11 pin and the sensors the reading should show continuity with low resistance. I think @dripley has had problems with that splice.

Thanks, I pulled that up when I got the code and most of it deals with the overdrive which in this case works fine. Ohm testing from pin #87 of the transmission relay to the PCM shows the wiring is good and when the TCC solenoid is grounded going down hill I feel the TCC lock up. I'm starting to wonder if running 100% +4 synthetic fluid is causing the TCC to slip since this started after flushing and replacing the fluid

In March the transmission had a no or delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shift condition. The transmission and cooling lines were flushed, the 3-4 accumulator spring, along with the governor solenoid and pressure/temperature transducer replaced. The fluid was changed to Valvoline synthetic +4. The transmission shifted great after the repair. The end of July I go on a 1000 mi "camping trip" pulling my 5th wheel with the boat behind it. I find out that I have no torque convertor lock up! This had happened once before in May of 2018 for about 10 miles. Now, cruising at 60 mph the RPMs are1900±; when accelerating from 60 mph the RPM increase rapidly to 2400-2700 depending on the load and peddle position; when the accelerator peddle is released at 60 mph the RPMs drop to 1400. The transmission temperature, measured in the cooling line between the pump and engine coolant heat exchanger, is normally 160-170° but with no lock up the temperature is 190° ±100°. When going up long grades the temperature climbs rapidly and when it reaches 240° I pull off the road, put the transmission in neutral with the engine at idle, and after 15 minutes the fluid cools to 190° then I can finish the grade. At 60 mph with the 'Mystery' switch on the RPMs still increase rapidly when accelerating indicating the torque convertor is not locked; when the accelerator peddle is released there is a drop of only 50 RPMs and there is engine breaking going down hills but the truck can come to a full stop in 3ed or 4th lock up, with the switch still engaged, and the engine will not stall. The fluid is still clean and full, the APPs in live data shows good with a smooth 0-100% transition and AC voltage is at .03v ±.005. Ohm testing the solenoids shows: 3-4 shift solenoid 32.8Ω, TCC solenoid 32.8Ω, and the new Borg Warner governor solenoid 6.2Ω. What I'm thinking is either a lose of pressure to the TCC, a poorly opening weak solenoid, or a bad TCC.

Those are grounds, nothing special. Clean them up, then take this nut off, clean some of the paint off the nut and fender and attach.

Was my wife cooking there? If the smoke alarm isn't going off it ain't done.

I have the same problem. Before each trip I do a complete contain inventory of the 5th wheel. If I have 12 rolls of paper towels on board for a 10 day trip she adds another 10 rolls; 90 paper plates add another 100. Sugar, flower, walnuts, bananas, crushed pineapple, banking powder packed just incase to make a banana-nut bread; it was not made, had to carry it back in to the house.

I think this is the picture you're looking for.

Those pressures are for the over pressure safety switch not the running pressure. That falls in the normal range. I think @dripley and you are on to something with that connection and spring.

Need to have the pressure readings to see what's going on. Also, there is a high pressure switch which opens between 450-490psi and closes 270-330psi.

@JAG1 how about using that extra virgin olive oil you were trying out to make your trim black again?

I can't help you with the heat. I've worked up in your area in the summer...no thanks. I know you installed those new parts but I tried to take you through the diagnostic process so no steps are missed. This shows where the ground is located under the dash. It looks like a PIA to get to. If you find that the ground (black/orange) wire from the A/C heater control is the problem then just run a new ground straight down on the left center dash support and ground it on the dash frame near the power outlet.

Next time it does it have a volt ohm meter handy. Now, with the key in the on position and the fan speed switch turned to max the dark green wire at the fan motor should have 12+ volts. If no, check fuse #12 and fan relay in the PDC or the dark green wire for open circuit. If yes, 12+ volts, then ohm test the black/tan wire with the fan switch still at max and the connector unplugged from the fan motor. One terminal of the VOM on the black/tan wire and the other to ground. There should be near 0 ohms. If yes, then there is a bad fan motor. If no, then there is an open circuit in either the black tan wire to A/C heater control, the A/C heater control, or the black/orange wire from the A/C heater control to the ground at right dash center support.

Fine out how much they are going to charge to mount and balance. Some of the shops I use charge $10 no receipt and others $25 plus State waste fee, plus a disposal fee, and any other BS fee they can think of. When you get the tires be sure to check the production date on the side wall. You don't want a tire that's already a year old. It will look something like this (2119), 21 is the 21st week of the year 2019.

OK, the way your truck died is the same way mine did when the VP44 died just north of Riggins, ID almost two years ago. I suggest you do a VP44 hot wire test.

Is the engine still not starting or did it restart?

and a Colt 1911 I have the same fuse set up in my 5th wheel between the batteries and a power invertor; 15 years now and no problems. You carry spare fuses for the two fuse boxes so carry one more fuse for the alternator, not hard to do. @Threadzy I like the fuse block and where you put it

@JAG1 had told me about resettable circuit breakers tripping falsely so I put something like this in with a 150A fuse mounted to the right battery tray.

I get them from Parts Authority. I think they sell retail also. http://partsauthority.com/ locations https://www.bing.com/maps?q=parts+authority+auto+parts&form=EDGSPH&mkt=en-us&httpsmsn=1&plvar=0&refig=4d87e10a971047169c4c3e0993c89ffc&PC=HCTS&sp=1&qs=HS&pq=parts&sc=8-5&cvid=4d87e10a971047169c4c3e0993c89ffc&cc=US&setlang=en-US Rock Auto has them but the your paying shipping from and sending the cores back. This is for a 03. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2003,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1413470,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper,1704

Diesel Auto Power was the go to for me when I needed to replace my VP44 and upgrade the injectors to RV275. Good customer service and fast shipping. The prices are about the same for quality parts no matter who sells them.

If you go with rebuilds DO NOT use Oreille's. Did a brake job 2 weeks ago where the customer supplied the parts. I went through 3 left calipers to find a good one. I normally use the Centrex brand; never had a problem with them and yes they come with brackets.