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Ground the top box with the green 14AGW wire run to the bottom box caster mount bolt. Ground the bottom box with the green 14 AWG run to GFI outlet ground. Drill hole large enough in face plate to run green 14 AGW through and attach it to the ground wire. I would run the green wire taped to the power cord you're using for the tool box. I would also cut the green wire and add an insulated connector just out side the GFI box cover so if I need to move the tool box the wire could be disconnected easily.

The latest photo of the Chicken Man relaxing.

Nothing wrong with a little "Pink Floyd" turned up any time.

That is used in an old house where an adaptor is needed for grounding a three prong plug to a two prong outlet. What type of required wire did you buy and how do you plan on connecting the hot and neutral?

Welcome, we do our best here to help with your truck problems and other minor ailments. I'm planning on being in Beavercreek the end of April if every think works out.

Where are you getting the power from? What does the connection in the box look like? Are you planning on rolling the box around when working or leave it in one place? One easy way to get power is buy an extension cord, cut of the female end and use that to wire into the tool box. With this you can plug into an outlet and still be able to move the box around if needed. 10'- 16 gauge at Harbor Fright $5.99.

Try pulling the belt out fully and spraying the last 1-2' of the belt with silicone. Let the belt retract and pull it out a few times then let the spray dry before using.

How @Mopar1973Man really makes his brakes last.

There are KDP repair kits to be had just search "cummins kdp repair kit". There are also a few how to videos on YouTube with the same search "cummins kdp repair kit". Most of the videos are for the 12 valve engine with a few for the 24 valve.

This fuse is for alternator protection only with the stock alternator out put at <140 amps. When the engine starts the grid heaters alternate being on and off. The two are not on together and there is about a 3 sec. delay between switching grid heaters so only about a 90 amp added load. When the grid heaters come on with engine running only and no other electrical load the voltage will drop to about 14.1 volts and 1269 watts. Example: grid heater #1 on for 5 seconds then turns off, all heaters off for 3 seconds, grid heater #2 on for 5 seconds then turns off, all grid heaters off for 3 seconds, Repeat.

Clam it as a commercial grade chicken tenderizer.

I do a lot of camping south of there at 7200' with the morning temps at 25°-32°F. The engine starts with the heaters disconnected but with a lot of white smoke (unburned fuel) and rough idle. This is why I made the grid heater bypass switch so I can use them when I need them with no 'check engine' light.

Remember, the populous of Seattle believe in 'Global Warming' and will pay any thing to get rid of the white stuff.

Yes, it can be in stalled to protect the alternator in that cable. Some people are using a 150 amp circuit breaker and others are opting for a fuse block with a 150 amp AMI/MIDI or ANL/AMG type fuse. circuit breaker

It's a little hard to run your 2 stroke boat motor on a frozen lake so sales of it are down and no need to carry it. The Walmart by my place has it for $13.84 / gal. The lake around here don't freeze in the winter.

Call or go into a few truck/auto repair shops and find out who they use. They are only going to use reputable machine shops because the truck/auto repair shop's name is on the line if something goes bad. With the high mile you have you might want to have the head gone through and renewed. See what they say about inspection and repair. Order of work Clean , pressure test, magnaflux, inspect valves, valve springs, valves guides. valve seats. Repair, resurface, replace valve guides and springs if needed, reface/replace valves and valve seats as needed, new valve guide seals.

I came across this. https://www.ramforum.com/threads/how-far-can-a-5-7-be-bored.114818/ As for low cost cylinder heads all ready built, there are a few machine shops that did videos about how bad the heads were. You get what you pay for.

When you say fuel system relay is this the relay supplied by Fass for the lift pump or the fuel pump relay, in the PDC, for the VP44? RELAY TEMINALS old number new number 86 1 85 2 30 3 87a 4 87 5 Most systems use terminal #86 (1) to energize the relay solenoid and terminal #85 (2) for ground.

I put the trans temp sender in the line from the front of the trans to the oil/water heat exchanger. The truck is mostly used for towing a 8k lb 5th wheel. It takes about 10 miles to start seeing a reading and a normal reading between 155°-180°F depending on ambient air temp with 190°-210°F in stop and go traffic or backing up.

You and @MoparMom be safe in your travels today.

CONNECTOR TRUCK # FUCTION COLOR GAUGE --- # COLOR 1 GROUND WHITE 12-10 --- ADDED WHITE 2 TRAILER BRAKE BLUE 12 --- ADDED BLUE 3 TAIL/MARKER BROWN 16 --- 285 BROWN 4 BATTERY RED 12-10 --- ADDED RED 5 L-TURN/BRAKE YELLOW 16 --- 283 YELLOW/BLACK 6 R-TURN/BRAKE GREEN 16 --- 282 GREEN 7 BACK-UP/AUX ORANGE 16 --- ADDED ORANGE The red wire is use to recharge the trailer battery and supply added power for additional equipment such as a power winch. Determine the load and install 12-10 gauge wire with a corresponding 20 to 30 amp auto-reset circuit breaker. The added white wire is used to ground the trailer's electrical system to the truck's electrical system. The wire gauge should be the same size as the largest power wire, brake or battery, 12-10 gauge. Grounding the white wire at the battery negative terminal will give the best system performance. The wires for the trailer's turn signal/brake, marker/tail and back-up lights can be run to and fused in the extra PDC before going to the extra pin connector. Indicated below are a couple of places the truck wire harness can be spliced into for these lights.

So many going to hell that they had to build a highway. So few going to haven that there is only a stair way. greater lesser both evil.

Trailer brake controller installation is straight forward following the instructions provided by Tekonsha. I'd use the 20 amp auto-reset circuit breaker and the black, white and blue wires be 12 gauge with all connections soldered and sealed.