IBMobile

You can double up the gauges to check a bigger gap, .026+.014= .040" I've pulled clutches and removed shims to adjust the gap on other compressors but I've never done one on these trucks. Yes, You would need the gap measurement, a special tool to remove the clutch disk, check the thickness of the shims to be removed with a micrometer, put it all back together, recheck the gap and and it should work or just buy a new one. The last a/c compressor I replaced was on a Chevy Suburban that I bought from O'rilly's. I don't remember what I paid for it but it still working on the customer's vehicle. I didn't buy their cheapest compressor option. When you do the job be sure to change the expansion tube, accumulator and all the O-rings.

What has happened is the air gap between the clutch plate and the pulley has increased due to wear. The air gap is large enough now were the electromagnet can no longer keep the clutch engaged to the pulley. You can check this air gap with a set of feeler gauges. The gap between the clutch plate and the pulley should be .016"-.031". If it is greater than this then the clutch is wore out and with the miles you have on the compressor it would be best to replace the whole unit and service the complete a/c system.

My wife and I had a great time visiting Mike and Mopar Mom. Wish we could spend more time with them in this beautiful area. We're heading to the Sierra Nevada mountains south of Carson City for a few days of fishing.

I'll be there tomorrow. We can try it then. Will need a floor jack and some 2x4, 4x4 or other blocks of wood.

Changing the paint color of a vehicle drops it's value, is seldom done right, usually looks bad after a few years, rock chips and scratches will show the under lying red paint unless you sand it down to metal and build it back up.

That's when you drink coffee, then you go back to work and drink more beer.

I left mine empty but like @dripley you can use that empty terminal to power something else now. That terminal is rated for 140 amps so a high amp draw idem can be powered from there.

I might be able to stick around for Saturday. Root beer for the kid.

2 cycle oil in fuel 1:128 Magnifine in line power steering/hydro boost fluid filter ECM protection with fuel pump relay (for backup lift pump) Fuel Boss pump Edge EZ Mystery switch with brake pedal disengagement Electrical system ground modification BHAF with heat shield 4" exhaust RV275 injectors manual boost controller fuel pressure, boost, transmission and exhaust temperature gauges Everything you do to your truck that is not a stock (factory type) replacement or repair is a modification and will void the factory warranty.

It's a Saturday, two man, one 12 pack job.

This may help

That's what I'm running and I'm seeing 30psi by the time the trans does the 3-4 upshift. Please fill out your signature so we can see what equipment your truck has. It will help in evaluating any problems your truck may experience.

I set mine with a lot of threads showing.

I had a 50' roll of 1/4" hose so I ran a line into the cab from the turbo to the controller and back out to the waste gate so I could adjust it on the fly. I made several wide open runs to set it. I tried to set it with air pressure from the compressor but it the valve didn't seam to want to open.

Try not to park the truck in the same place every night. Rodents remember where food and a warm place to nest is and will keep coming back to the same place.

My trip to South Dakota is now complete.

In north San Diego County there are 5 Napa stores owned by the same person. If you need a part they can get it usually the same day but their prices are higher on most things than anyone else and the quality is about the same. There are a lot of wholesale and commercial part suppliers here I'd rather deal with.

I'll be checking the above out before we drive into the Badlands National Park today.

Today getting on I-90 at Chamberlaind, SD after having lunch, the torque convertor would not lock up. I tried to lock it up with the mystery switch but no luck. The trans temp climbing to 190°F, then the convertor locks up. What the heck! No check engine light. I'm thinking either poor connection at transmission, problem with the lock up solenoid, problem in valve body, or problem in the torque convertor.

The morning sky in front of the Iowa state capital 4/25/18

Your socket is going bad. If it was something, like the 'hotwire' red/tan 16 gauge wire going to the plug, grounding the fuse would blow with out anything in the socket.

Yes, that wire from the positive terminal of the left battery to the PDC is where all the power to run the electrical components, except the starter motor, comes through.

I disconnected the grid heaters just before this trip and the coldest start was in Wiggins, CO at 32°F. The engine started up, some white smoke and loopy idle for 20 seconds then every thing was fine.

I don't know . I've never tried that. It would be great if you could an amp meter in line with it and test it that way. It would have to be a meter rated for that big of a load. What is the amp/watt rating of those backup lights?