JAG1

What he does it take all the old parts layin out back, make them look new again and ships them back for credit...

I read about several guys on the landscapers forum using regular motor oil to mix with the gas instead of TCW 3 or 2 stroke oil. Not one reported any problems with numerous gas powered two stroke motors on their equipment.

What I do is call venders up to see how polite they are. If they behave like they don't have time or if they start that lightening speed millenial bs style I tell them I am sorry but I am going somewhere else where they talk human, are patient and polite.

my inclination would have been not to do business with them if they are like that. I bought a Red Head steering gear and it's been perfect for 2 yrs now, no leaks and they talk to you on the phone. Imagine that!

W-T says that lift pumps are one of biggest offenders of interference.

W-T was telling me that even the muffler alone with exhaust going thru it will release interference. I think he went so far as to say some radio ham operators are grounding the muffler. So I wonder about the turbo, that things spinning faster than Fox news.

I think what happens is the factory foam turns to a dust like material that quickly falls apart when attempting to do anything with it. Both my 2nd gens have good headliners so far. Knock on wood.

You need to have some kids Mike to fill up that Van for you..... We had three and boy was that ever a ride

Looks good, now no more smokin inside it. Mike, did you got your firewood in yet?

When hard starts occur I have heard of a way to determine what;s wrong by pouring a bit of cool water over the PSG on top of the VP44. If it starts right up after cooling then there's an indication the PSG board is going. Everyone, I cannot magnify enough on how important it is to know the source of any rebuilt VP44 before purchasing. If the supplier cannot verify that it was rebuilt by a Bosch certified injection pump rebuilder then stay away from it. Often going for price or going for plenty of sales hype alone will cost you, having to do the job twice etc. You must verify who the rebuilder is and if they are Bosch certified. If the supplier cannot produce verification, then stay away. I buy my VP's direct from the Bosch rebuilder. It costs me a bit more but also insures they'll be in business the next time I come looking for a properly built and fully tested injection pump.

He's been applying for building permits and following news from Washington. BTW, my 4 year long episode of traveling with the 0216 error code was a warning and when I experienced my first hard start I traveled another two day trip to Idaho to have MoparMan change my VP44, the code has never come back, I think heavy dosses of 2 stroke oil in the fuel saved me from being stranded the whole 4 years.

Anything showing even slightly wet will most likely be a leak with dirt/ dust in the area, providing that you wipe everything down nice and dry after install. That way it will show signs or clues of leaking. I always check after a couple runs or even a couple weeks on a new install.

Too high of fuel pressure can cause hard starts if the L/P regulator is adjusted too high. Are you powering the lift pump off the batteries using a relay triggered and controlled by the ECM?

@TractormanI also want to know if the code has cleared. I'm interested because usually the 0216 means a worn timing piston in the VP, BTW, I have had a truck camper new since 03. Had to 'fix or repair daily' for awhile now it's a solid unit.

John, I drove my truck for 4 yrs long distance trips with an 0216 code. No dead pedal but, I carried with me a newly rebuilt VP and all tools needed just incase. I am wondering if Great work needs a Timbo APPS ? But, that wouldn't throw an 0216 error code. I only hope he does not need a new rebuilt VP.

Okay, Sorry about that... I would like to know some ways that cause diodes to start burning out. I am assuming when one goes the others left have to work harder and get hotter. Also some reasons why an alternator can suddenly short out .

Mike mentions how his factory battery cables are still like new. I am certain it is from a small amount of the added oil wicking up into the copper braid. My cables are still good also, thanks to Migel Mopie Man.

When there's oil across the top it collects dirt and I have been able to detect a very mild amount of voltage drain in the dirt so I try to clean mine often.

Both my work truck and the rv truck get a couple drops of oil each year on the battery posts and cable lugs. It keeps them nice. MoparMan told us about this trick a few years back. I still brighten up the posts and clamps ea year too.

So anyhow you guys are saying that whatever amount of foot pounds it takes to loosen a nut or bolt, is how many ft pounds it took to tighten it? I would think that loosening it would take less, assuming no corrosion or rust. I could be wrong of course. Back to the roof before dark.

Warning, you came this close to gettin' banned!

Thanks Hutch24v. Only thing was it was expensive for the labor, even though I pulled the seat and brought it to him to make it easier.

In my 92 dodge Cummins with a bench seat I bought real cowhides and had them made into a seat cover with the brands showing and Daniel Boone style stitching using leather strips for the stitching. It was cool and the tanned hides where full thick leather nice and soft. Nothing was factory about that seat cover and lasted years. Come think of it, if I let MoparMan sit in it he'd probably wear his coon skin hat

I am glad you made it back safe.

She is a nice person. Fun to talk with. BTW, since I changed the burnt wire to heavier gauge it has worked fine for 3 years now. In Oregon you need the seat heaters esp. with leather its cold