JAG1

Sounds like a smart buy With that Hemi you'll be able to show them 10 houses in ten minutes

Real estate agents drive Cadilacs.

The Air Dog harness has the ECM plug on it just like the factory plug and set up to only activate the relay. I think FASS does also.

Right. Make sure the lift pump is powered from the battery thru a relay controlled by the ECM. Don't let the ECM power it like it was set up from the factory originally.

You should not run the lift pump off the factory connection. That factory connection should only activate a relay that lets the L/P run off the batteries. It's too much load on the ECM otherwise. Brand new alternator means nothing when not tested for any excessive levels of House type Current or AC noise as we put it. Say that cause someone once thought we were talking about noise from the air conditioning system.

I put in new injectors and the truck ran smooth but soon as I replaced the injection pump, within a week, I have a very rough idle. Like it's missing in one cylinder between 700 and 1000 rpm. Higher RPMs it smooths out beautifully and runs really good. There aren't any leaks so any suggestions what to check? Thank in advance BTW, This on my 1992 12 Valve with a VE pump.

I know a Snap on scanner can detect flat spots in the TPS. Did you get the new Timbo Apps to go with new vp? Timbo APPS is a good replacement for the cheaply built factory TPS. Are there any fuel restrictions besides the banjos, Dirt for example, that causes a delay in F/Pressure till it catches up? Or an inlet screen on the inlet side of the lift pump Some did have a screen in there for awhile and should be pulled out. What about the debri from drilling the tank sump is that all clear? Is the lift pump running off the batteries thru a relay and only controlled by the ecm? Too much load from the lift pump, running off the ECM, can play havoc on the electrical system if not run off the batteries. Welcome to the forum BTW. I hear what you are going thru but very much respect guys that don't give up like you. One last thought I have is to slowly remove the fuel cap after a run to listen for any vacuum hissing. Could be your tank vacuum is clogged and hard time getting immediate fuel pressure. Running without the cap will tell too. Just an outside chance.

Would look awesome with aluminum flatbed and boxes. Thanks IB, what type paint or brand? Do you know any? I've heard Emeron is good.

Thanks, it is for the cab only since it has an aluminum flatbed with a head ache rack. I told then not to paint the rear of the cab just mask off a line and paint all else. I am to remove and replace mirrors and body side moldings.

Another Question... just got a quote to do all the body work and new paint on this old truck. $1700 bucks is what they say for one all one color. I remove and replace molding and mirrors. I think that's a good price, what say you?

so what is the torque set supposed to be on the high pressure lines? Thanks.

with my 1st gen high miler getting recent injectors and inj pump... learning on this forum about my 2nd gen too, I don't think I could ever go to a gas engine. I have been looking at other 2nd gen 12 valves but none are worthy or as tight like my 1st gen, so on I go restoring my old truck. I have learned enough to tell most times when a mechanic or dealer is a not on the right path with things you hear from sales people. I don't think I could work around all the strange parts covering a newer gas engine as I can my 12 or my 24. CSM, I know you mean well and your probably right... that they are cheap and yet reliable enough to warrant going back. Sometimes these diesels are expensive and make you think about a cheap gas truck but, then I remember the unbelievable number of sweet miles I got out of my 92 Dodge already.

If it were in the summer with hot days I would say you probably shouldn't run it.

Nice truck, I like everything about it.

I see an idea for the store. It's a good one.

I would have to be careful with it... not fill up with diesel. Once you get used to a diesel its hard to give up and I think there's something a little bit special about the 12 valve trucks.

Sounds like it was a good game. Wish I'd watched it now. I love that Diesel Dog... friendliest nicest pup till you try carrying something out the door.

probably need to lay a new floor because the quality of rv flooring gets brittle with age. I would look at a good grade of new vinyl flooring.

I need trees/ love a nice shady camp.... yet I've heard the right solar set up can afford more freedom while camping. I'm going to look into Amorphous type panels rather than the typically expensive multicrystallin as the Amorphous panels are more efficient in shade and cloudy days. Not sure on this yet but, all I want is to reduce my gen run time required in mornings not eliminate it.

Yes, I used 600 grit emery cloth on the high pressure line tip. Placing paper covers over the three disconnected injectors to keep debri out, I lightly squeezed the paper to the tapered bottom portion and go around. Don't go up and down, go around with the circle on the tip. Then with a flash lite and mirror, check to see if it nice brite and no defects. I did find a very small defect, about 1/4th the size of a pin head (very small) I used the emery again till it was gone and thanks to Michael Nelsons advice, it doesn't leak now. It's key that you don't keep tightening those H/P lines if you have a stubborn leak you can ruin them. Snug not wrenched is how I can best describe it. My leak was stubborn and I knew not to force it so I refinished the surface is all. I learned about the emery cloth on this forum. Been here for years and still learning from you guys. Thank you all.

1/4 inch Prius exhaust

Good advice when a bad injector can ruin an engine. I did not know that till I put 450000 miles on my originals. This is on my other truck the 1992. No damage to the engine but left me stranded halfway out my canyon.

I've been looking to get a newer truck like a second gen to look a bit better in business as I currently have a first gen for my work. It issomewhat beat up but all that I look at are ready for the work that's been done to my truck. Today I raced a lightly modified 2nd gen 24 valve off the line. With my limited slip I jumped ahead half a truck length and held it there all the way up to the speed limit. Why should I trade when my truck was full of tools?

I'm thinking my problem could be in the tank. I have not been in there for 12 years... might find some green gelatinous substance near the draw.

You could be getting air in the suction side of your fuel lines. I've heard you can get enough air to make it run rough in certain areas on the tachometer but overcomes the problem when warmed or reved up. The leak is so small that not much fuel leaks out but will suck air when running. I'm hoping after a new injection pump I find that this is my problem because at 900 rpm it shakes the whole truck then smooths out at 1,000 rpm. It Michaels fault for not drive 9 hours to my place and work on it.