CUMMINSDIESELPWR

it was a couple years ago when i checked prices, but goo that they are less now!

ill be rebuilding a used one i got from a member here some time this year... DAP sells the kits genuine holset for $85. dont get the cheap chinese knockoffs which i think was put in my current turbo i had rebuilt... (burns oil on backside) :/

ahh, thanks mike, i learn something every day!

idle mode doesnt use the ecm to do anything if IIRC. its just a closed loop on the pump that handles idling, am i correct?

a manual disconnector is on my list. price is around normal too

what shrouds do we need for oem housings? and i have aftermarket cheepo housings that seal like a screen door so ill use my originals that came off the truck

ooooohhhhh purdy i have 55w hids in already but in cheapo housings... i still have the stock headlights too so id love to retrofit them

yeah the belt thing i knew but the lead wire i didnt. That isnt an issue to do though. thank for the heads up mang!

if i ever get the money, ill be getting one of these seeing i have a lot of lighting and a 16.5 warn winch, it pulls a lot of power... http://www.mechman.com/alternators/dodge/full-size-truck/5-9l-diesel/1988-2002/s-series-6-phase-320-amp-alternator-for-early-cummins/

i have similar rotational play on my dana rear and its normal :D

i did mine when i did the clutch, remove tranny, and using a small drill bit drill 2 pilot holes opposite of each other into the seal metal itself (dont score the mating surface) then carefully screw in sheet metal screws that fit and use those to pry against. eventually it will pop out, you may have to redrill another set of holes and repeat till it comes out. install with the tool and you are good. i had to rebuild my engine a few years later and i had zero signs of rear main leakage. remember the seal housing is aluminum and can get buggered easily if not careful. most of all take your time. only one chance to get it right!

i had same symptoms on mine, starter contacts are worn. i pulled mine in 10 minutes, 30 minutes to rebuild and clean it up, stuck it back in and works like a champ. i even bought a second rebuild kit for next time! the arc of contact and release erodes one terminal in the contactor housing and eventually there is nothing left to contact. tapping the starter kinds bumps the contactor to actually make contact and it starts. this remedy wont last but a few starts though...

when airdog was made with love and high quality till it went downhill few years back IIRC.. airdogs are good, when they were quality made

https://www.amazon.com/Aeroquip-FBM3632-Socketless-Fitting-Assembly/dp/B001U73F3Q

dude im getting one lol not too expensive either. makes pushing lock fit hoses on in the cold a cinch!

I NEEDS ONE!!!!!!! so does everyone else!

my truck doesnt have an in tank pump. i have the stock lift pump bolted to block that is plumbed in but doesnt work off the ecm for some reason. i can hook it to the battery and it will prime, thats what i use it for. ever since i hooked the fuel boss up, the new oem lift pump has been sitting there getting a free ride. sometime this year im going to remove it entirely as all i did to prime the truck during my rebuild was remove the small belt and hook a cordless drill to the fuel boss shaft and spin it over and bam primed instantly. so really a cheap small cordless drill to prime the fuel boss seeing that it site below the fuel tank level wont ever lose prime. the fuel boss plumbing is set up to use a secondary lift pump. the higher pressures are to get fuel flowing through the vp to ensure good cooling as the pcu on top can get stresssed and fail from heat. yes it will run with stock psi but the temps eventually kill them on street trucks i had trouble getting mine to prime (sealing tape got caught in check valve) he spent a couple hours on the phone with me troubleshooting. If my fuel boss ever failed.... i WOULD buy another from him period.

welcome! and purdy truck there! as far as fuel.... i had a raptor 150 and after 3 years it died on me. the last year of its life it wouldnt maintain fuel psi and i had enough. I dropped the coin on a fuel boss, spent a day installing and getting it working. (make sure nothing gets in the lines that can keep the check valve open) im running on 5+ years i think on the fuel boss, original belt with ZERO issues. I dont even think about fuel anymore as i know its always there. i do have to change the fuel psi sender as its getting old but the fuel boss stays around 24psi no matter what throttle input i give it. its simple, two moving parts with a belt that if properly set up (slack in the belt) it will run for decades. the owner of the fuel boss has the same belt on his original pump well over 200,000 miles (5 years ago) im sure he is over 300,000 now... fuel boss all the way for reliability!

brutus spent better part of 10 years in colorado and i will say one big factor to cold starting is good batteries. i feel mainly to be able to spin the engine over fast enough to get compression fast enough to get good detonation of fuel. and this of course after a round or two of grid heater cycles... in wisconsin last winter it was 7degF out and truck didnt want to start. turned over but died quickly... ok so i tossed a solar charger on it and let it sit for a couple days, i went to start him up, (it was colder and no block heater) and one grid heater cycle and he fired off like it was summer temps... the solar charger topped the batteries off well!

because i enjoy offroading and know that in certain situations the more light the better so i did this... 3 kc daylighters with 55w hid up top two 32" led bars up front i have inexpensive projector hids for headlights, they are meh ok... 100w fogs below. rear lights on the headache rack i do want to invest in higher quality projector lights though. the high beams on the projectors i have now are utter crap (halogen h3 bulb with small gauge wire) so i never use highs lol

one volcanic eruption probably emits more pollution than all of mankind.... and we have how many of these a year?

I have a good friend that owns a driveshaft shop, Bill englewood driveshafts. He is a stand up guy and very honest. Does custom work and had good prices. I am going to mail out my bmw driveshaft to have it rebuilt and ujoint staked so i have a spare. I trust him %100 no questions asked. http://www.billsenglewooddriveshaft.com/

i have timkens on mine and so far 60,000 miles so far. i use timkens whenever possible

its a cumulative item. only works when other stuff has been bolted on or ported etc etc

fuel boss for 3-4 years ZERO issues. still have it on