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2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.

  1. Started by fuze24v,

    01 Cummins with 300k, I got a p1762 and a p1763 code. Replaced all solenoids internal on the transmission.(haven't touch the internal wiring yet) Ground is good, ran a jumper wire and by passed the pcm, made no change, 5volt line on data says it's stuck at 4.98 but doesn't show any v coming out of the pcm to the transmission, all grounds check out with a it break out box. Pickup is stuck in 3rd year with 108 gov press psi at idle and gov pr duty cyc is at 1, when you press the od switch, it's saying pressed but it turns right back off on snap on scanner. I can see life data and I have ran all relay test I am think of. Pcm has 12v coming in, ECM does also. Batteries…

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  2. Started by horse103,

    my stock lift pump has a pressure problem if i bump the starter when its cool out i have about 7psi as it warms up out side i bump the starter and i have 3 or 4 psi in the hot part of the day at about 93 deg i bump starter i get 0 psi. this is with out engine running. please help

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  3. I replaced the tappet cover and am unable to get the truck started. Bled the pump, but I am unable to get it to start. any suggestions? thanks, Philo

  4. Is the 4500 5 speed a good pick for the switch ?

  5. Started by jlwelding,

    Well just got in from draining the trans. and not good. I ran my magnet around in there and came out with two small chunks of gear and a bunch of fine metal shavings. I hate to run it till it fails because Wow what happen there? lol

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  6. Started by Ravewolf,

    As title states, my tcase went crunch on the way to North Dakota for my new job. I'm assuming the way it locked up the innards are toast. I had to disconnect both drive shafts to move it. As of now, the truck is going to be put into hibernation until I figure out what's going to happen next. That depends on whether or not I can get a decent case for cheap enough. I've also considered adapting it to run an np205, and hopefully not have to worry again. But I really don't want to have to get new yokes and drivelines. What do you all suggest? Who could rebuild it for a reasonable amount? Who sells gears and stuff besides all state? The truck has 4.11s…

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  7. Started by jlwelding,

    Some might remember me freaking out about my radiator rusting up so fast. Well I can tell you this, don't ever use radiator flush even if it says its ok for aluminum. It might ok for aluminum but it dang sure not good for the rubber seal around the tanks. New radiator 191.00

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  8. Is there a way to look at smog test results and figure out what an "up grade" would do to a smog test? Like injectors for example, anyway using math to "guessimate" what a new smog test would be? I would hate to buy some upgrade stuff and then fail smog test. The state (WA) I'm in uses the "transparity" test I'm told. Also found out my truck has been licensed as "gasoline powered" for long time. Maybe that's the reason several smog tests ago, the guy looking at his smog machine said to bring RPM's up to 3,000. Believe it or not, the license people can't change the title back to diesel by looking at VIN or lifting hood and seeing the big words across th…

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  9. Started by Buzzinhalfdozen,

    I can't imagine this is a common problem but I thought I would share my story. I developed a driveline vibration at cruising speed so on my first day off I pulled it in the garage and sure enough the U joint by the rear axle was bad. When I checked the other joint and it was fine, but I happened to push up on the driveshaft and when I did the whole transfer case moved up and down with it! Upon further inspection two studs that hold the t-case to the trans were gone and all but one were backed way out. Also because the one stud was tight the t-case pivoted off of it and put a pretty good crack in my trans tailhousing. It's not leaking and I got everything tightened up with…

  10. Started by Doubletrouble,

    My daughter bought me diesel truck gauges for Christmas! She found a 3 in 1 gauge from gloshift that has an analog needle to show boost and an LCD display that shows fuel pressure and egt. Pretty slick little unit, all 3 in one gauge pod. Even comes with the pod to install it. I only need to buy the boost bolt, snubber and the tap and die kit to drill the exhaust manifold for the egt probe. My questions are: Do I only need a snubber or do I also need the needle valve? Where is the best place to drill fir the egt probe? See pic of the gauge below. The pic shows egt and temp in the LCD but mine has the fuel pressure and egt's.

  11. Started by CUMMINSDIESELPWR,

    Ladies and gents, i need to ask if anyone has a RV275 injector in good working order new/used they want to sell or give away? I think #6 may have been damaged when the cylinder got too hot. Please let me know as soon as possible, pm me if you do. thank you all for your help! randy

  12. Started by sillet00,

    What size is the banjo bolt on the supply line at IP on a 1998.5 24v? I know I can take it off and measure, but I want to get a push lock banjo bolt for 1/2" lines and they show 2 different sizes.

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  13. Started by Octafish,

    What's the procedure ? I'm guessing just pull the bottom pulley and pump mounting bolts. Then tilt the pump down to get the drill chuck on the shaft? Do you need a 3/8" or 1/2" drill? Spin clockwise? Or do they make a pulley you can put on a drill and use the belt to prime?

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  14. Started by Wesley6842,

    So I know there was a thread on this back in 2016 but reading into the document it looks like the guy who made the thread never really did the swap just stated what he thought needed to be done so bringin this back i have an 02 6 speed truck which unfortunately has snapped the crank ripping the main caps out and cracking the block, and me not knowing it was a headache to swap ended up snagging a 99 motor for it, well instead of loosin my you know what on trying to sell this damn thing and finding another has anyone done this successfully without it being a huge headache again i am trying to put a 98.5 24v in the 02 chassis, thanks again!

  15. Started by Royal Squire,

    My son joined the ranks of 2nd gen 24valve/auto owners about 2 weeks ago. He had owned a 95 12valve/5spd White dually about 10 years ago, so when he ran across this 24 valve white dually he just had to look. Ended up trading his crew cab dually 454/5spd Black Chevy for it. He took new truck to Arizona for his cousins graduation and his transmission went out. So he had to get tranny rebuilt in Arizona so he could get back home to Wyoming. I suggested he join this forum and he asked how. I couldn’t tell him. He doesn’t have a computer only a phone. Can someone here help me look smarter than I really am! Thank you in advance

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  16. I just bought a 2002 Ram 3500 5.9 six speed manual a couple of weeks ago and drove it home. Went to start it a couple of days ago and it wouldn't start. Cranks but no start. Checked batteries and had 1 bad one one so I replaced both. Same issue with new batteries installed. checked codes. P0123 and P1694. Wait to start light does not illuminate and can not hear lift pump come on. I did the dash light test with the trip meter depressed and wait to start still doesn't illuminate. The only thing I did between when it was running and not running was hook up some wires to make the running boards lights work. There is some evidence of rats chewing some wires but nothin…

  17. Started by DodgeRam2002,

    this is my truck, how is it for blowby?

  18. Started by Sycostang67,

    Do you need to remove all the injector lines to remove the intake plate? I was looking at the Crazy Carls intake plate in the store and says it installs in about an hour. I know if I have to remove the injector lines it will take a lot longer than an hour.

  19. Started by SSIRMAN,

    My truck is a 2001 2500 ram with the 24 valve. When I first start my truck up in the morning I can see the alternator kicking on and off back and forth. It gets down to about 10 volts and then goes back up to 14. It’s so bad I can watch my headlights dim and get brighter, I am wondering if this is normal operation or not? I also have a problem with my truck shutting off at idle out of nowhere, wondering if the injection pump is getting low voltage every now and then causing it to shut the truck off. Then the truck starts right back up no problem. I have done the AC noise mod and replaced the alternator about a month ago. If the pcm controls the alternator cut in/ cut out …

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  20. Started by CME_cummins,

    Today I had new front cab mounts installed on my truck. 2001 2500 auto. There is a lever I am assuming that does something with the transmission on the driver side front cab mount. And now we are having trouble with the truck going in and out of neutral while driving. Please help

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