2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I need a new set of battery’s before winter and I’m curious what you guys recommend and have had good luck with? Currently have Napa battery’s.

Hey all, my son has a 2001 2500 24v that only came with keys when he bought it. He would like to add a FOB to lock and unlock and my assumption is that this can be done via just programming. Anyone tried this? Does this article make sense and seem legit? https://itstillruns.com/program-keyless-entry-remote-fob-6194237.html He only has keys and no FOB currently. BDK

Several weeks ago I washed my engine, something I've done many times before. later the engine would spit rapidly out out the blue, water in fuel light came on, code came up for heater grid low voltage, and TPS/APPS, connection was loose on intake heater grid. Figured maybe water got in connections, so I put dielectric grease on all connectors. Happened intermittently after that and pulled the APPS/TPS code, so found a module from Freightliner , (I made the timbo wire mod previously), still get the rapid "spitting" it seems after fueling a low tank, have added Howes Fuel lubricator that's supposed to remove water. Ran it till Fuel light came on, and poured a whole bottle i…

If I bypass the relay and have someone turn the key it starts. New position switch on left side of transmission. Transmission shop rebuilt trans last week. Could it be the position pawl is not engaging correctly? Can I check if I pull the pan?

Hey all, back again with another problem 🙃 so I have a weird knocking that sounds like it’s coming from the bell housing directly under where the clutch is.. it’s an 01 6 speed with (supposedly) a South Bend Dual Disk. Noise stays even with clutch pedal pressed in, I just don’t hear the discs rattling any more. The noise is proportional with engine rpm. I’m praying to god it’s the flywheel bolts or maybe it’s the original 300k flywheel and the P/O just slapped a new clutch in, which is definitely possible due to other things done on the truck... maybe dual mass flywheel? Clutch spring hitting? Clutch component broken and is stuck in there? I’m almost certain it isn’t inje…

Hello, I am in the market for an injection pump and have tried calling DAP, and tried texting also with no response. Does anybody know if the below pump is an Industrial Injection pump by chance? Thanks.

Hello everyone, first post but long time lurker. Last night i noticed a coolant leak coming from my truck on the ground while i was shopping. Was almost a 12" wet spot on the ground after about an hour and a half of sitting. After getting the truck home and letting it cool off for a bit i was able to find out where it was coming from. On the head in the back passenger corner there is a 45 degree spot that has a small hole, about 3/8" diameter. Is this a freeze plug and if so has anyone replaced it without taking the head off? Not a lot of room and its close to the exhaust so im not expecting a lot. Im also hoping to properly fix it after winter if this fix isnt long term.…

I was under the hood working in something else not long ago and had to remove the intake tube between the filter and turbo and saw this. I am now concerned that somehow dirt or fine particles are passing through to the intercooler and engine. Is there a way to clean this wheel without complete disassembly? I would assume it's the filter letting this pass. It's a fram, not sure of the part#. It was in there and new when I bought the truck. Clamps and such were tight so leaves me to blame the filter. Thoughts????

First time posting but love this site. I have a 99 Dodge Cummins. Roughly 160,000. This issue started roughly 6 months ago. The truck runs great until a warm restart. Then in bucks and surges a bit when I hit the throttle and eventually goes into limp mode. It has never done it on a cold start. I can put money down I can start it in the morning and it will be fine. I’ll drive to town with no issues. If I shut it off go into a store and come out it bucks and surges then goes to limp mode. It results in a p0606 code. So when it first did it I changed the APPs out to a Timbo apps. I have also changed the MAP and IAT. I sent the ECM off to get repaired. Oddly enou…

I am finishing up my w-t ground mod. I have been doing other projects and have forgot. So the 2 wires from the alternator one is the output that I am going to hook up to a circuit breaker and battery. But what is the other wire? Where did it hook up to?

Hey all, I have been a member of the forum for years but have slowly moved away from it over the years. I am back now and starting to toy with my truck again. Wanted to make a quick post for guys who have either swapped/ purchased there truck with a Auto to Manual swap. I did mine 2 years ago and have been running flawlessly since then. Now to the point of this post. I never swapped my ECM+PCM during the swap because i never had any issues. So why swap the computers if you don't have to right? (I am kinda one of those guys if it works don't F*** with it!). So here we go i was definitely WRONG. If you have done this Auto to Manual swap and not re …

Hey guys began installing a fass TS 165 on my 01 tonight. Just wondering where I hook my wiring harness to start my lift pump. My instructions say hook green and red to battery terminals (did that) then says plug into the oem lift pump harness but my only other connector on the fass harness is a small red wire with a fuse tap. Can I solder this red wire into my oem lift pump harness or do I need to use the add a fuse? Other then hooking up this wire my install is done just waiting till daylight in the morning to finish up. Thanks

I found an oil leak a week ago or so. The bolts around the oil filter adapter/cooler were a touch loose. Today I removed the oil filter to gain access and checked them all. A few of them I got a 1/4 turn on till tight. I know they should be torqued but I don't own an inch/lb wrench.......yet. I took pics before and after.....

My limited slip chatters a little bit in the turns. How much additive do I add? I changed the gear oil about 10K miles ago with Dino gear oil that had some friction modifier for limited slip. Chatter just started. Should I go 4 oz. and add more if needed? Thanks

I got the issue with the torque converter acting up sorted out and now this... The gremlins didn't stay away long. I am now getting random drop outs of the tach and the CEL comes on and it has 0336 codes. I just changed out the CKP sensor awhile back after it developed these same symptoms but now they are back. Either the sensor I installed is a POS (I did get it from Autozone) or there is something else going on.

Hey guys, while under the hood of my truck, I found this elbow that goes from the airbox into the turbo. It’s cracked pretty good. Any suggestions on a new one to fit my truck and Will this make the truck run bad? 2001 dodge 3500 5.9 24v with 62mm smedin turbo

Hello everyone, my questions today start with this list of parts, loaded head, ARP studs, three piece manifold and OEM gasket for my 02 Cummins. I don't plan on boosting HP but have RV-275 injectors and a power puck. Looking for dependability... Is there better quality parts that I should be looking for than the parts listed below. A better supplier. Better price. Just trying to make a good decision rather than my usual mistakes, thanks everyone!!! Item Qty Price Total Loaded cummins head 5.9L PSP-PP-24vhead-LOEM 1 $1,420.00 $1,420.00 1686: 3852 $199.00 …

I will be installing new injectors soon and I’ve read conflicting info regarding whether crossover tubes should be replaced at the same time. Proponents (including @dieselautopower) of changing them out say the risk of fuel leaks is much less if they are changed out. Those who say changing them is not necessary advise that if they are correctly installed and aligned with the injector, and have a properly installed o-ring, leak potential is minimal. What is the prevailing opinion here regarding changing the feed tubes? If I change them out, is there any reason to go with anything other than these? https://www.dieselautopower.com/bo…

Currently when I turn the key on it tells me there is no fuel the low fuel light comes on. It was just a few months ago I changed the sensor out in the tank. The volt gauge tends to start fine but later on drop to 8V even though my battery voltage is 14.2 to 14.5 volts still. Now I plan on verifying the fuel sender to see if I can measure any ohm resistance at the PCM if so them the sensor is fine by the PCM had failed. Volt gauge I really can't test no way being the voltage is sensed and the reported to the cluster over the CCD network. I might be calling @Auto Computer Specialist and talking to them on warranty call.

I hope you guys will be able to help me out because I'm at a complete loss. So i have 2002 dodge 2500 with 174k and it has a rough idle when the motor is at operating temp. The truck idles just fine when it is cold, only when it is hot does it start idling like s**t. It almost sounds like it is missing, but I don't think it has a miss, I don't know what else there is to replace on this thing, everything is all new. This is a daily driven truck, it does not have a programmer on it, just 100HP injectors, 60/67/12 FPI turbo, 4in exhaust, BHAF, gauges. Here is a list of everything that have been done to the truck in the last 3k miles and it has not solved the problem. …