2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ok guys still chasing my intermediate miss still may be injectors but want to ruel out alternator first ac noise mine is 0.24 has bosh on it bought rebuilt at napa it was worse so one would alternator cause miss and is 0.24 bad and will dens0 alternator fit my truck in place of bosh if it is hot miss at idle you can turn truck off start back up miss is gone getting 20 mph on fuel runs strong cleaned all grounds run fuel cleaner through it sometimes go a while no miss then it will miss i no lot of folks having same issue don't mind spending money just want to apply it in right place sorry I'm not very good at fancy writing. Maybe i need to convert it to a p pump.Thanks

Im have a charging issue along with the transmission not having od. I checked the blue and green wires at the back of the alternator and the blue wire has no voltage. where does the voltage come from? does the pcm send 12v to the alternator or does the alternator send 12 volts to the pcm? or do both get their power from the pdc where the trans relay is?

Ok gang... I got my next task at hand. Got up this morning and had to run to McCall to do a bit of grocery shopping and when I fired up the engine I had a strange growl/howl that was unsual. Went shopping and returned home and figured I would check it out. Pull the belt and check the tensioner bearing smooth and no wooble, water pump feels good, and the fan bear is good. But get to the alternator rough and howls when spun. Assuming I found my source of noise. I know Prowelder did a write up of a alternator rebuild on CF.com http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/257771-bosch-alternator-rebuild.html Also I know he got parts from Fixinrams.com http://…

I’ve been having some minor OD/lockup quirks start showing up lately so figured I would start with an AC test. With truck at idle and minimal electrical load I got 0.053v between battery ground and alternator charge post. Then I decided to turn as much stuff in as I could (max a/c, high beam lights, mirror heaters, etc...) on the test also at idle speed I got 0.1xx volts with constant up and down fluctuation. So safe to assume that I have diode problems in my alternator likely causing my OD/lockup problems??? The alternator is only about 5000 miles old and functioning fine so I was thinking I would just install new diode and do the w-…

Report: Took My alternator off and to a local Alt/Starter rebuild shop. To double check it for bad diodes. My alternator bench tested OK . He then took the back off and to check the diodes individually with a meter, and I had "1" bad diode I was charging Volts: D.C. 14.30 and My A.C. was .055+/- Moparmans video, he checked Volts at: DC 14.25, AC .005-.015 IIRC The Alternator Shop (Jason) Ordered a new Rectifier/diode pack about $25 and Im putting in new brushes $9.00 as long as I had it apart. The above numbers are a reference to go by . My Alternating Voltage Test A.C. .055+/- I thought was ok , But I did actually have 1 bad diode. There are …

With all of the talk about alternating current causing electrical damage has anyone researched or tried to purchase the diodes for the alternator and rebuild it themselves?

My truck is now on its 3rd alternator since getting the truck last September. Previous owner a friend of mine put one in and it died on me about 3 months in and was under warranty. Second one lasted until yesterday morning was about 50-60 degrees out started the truck the check gauges light stayed on for 20 seconds or so then came up to 14v drove 20 seconds up the street and it dropped back down so I pulled over and the alternator was smoking hot and litterally smoking. Never came back up to 14v still spins freely. Ended up getting another on under warranty at orileys. I think they are the ultima brand i can find out though. What gives though? Truck was fine yesterday and…

Hey all. I bought my truck as a theft recovery, and so all the battery wires were cut up. I replaced the wires, and also the serpentine belt this evening due to a failing damper. I fired it up and let it idle, everything looked fine, and then like 5 min of idling and I started smelling an almost burnt plastic smell. Was looking at the alternator and could see smoke, so I killed the engine. The alternator was extremely hot! It looked like some of the solder or whatever holds the copper wires together, started boiling. Looked like tar. I wasn’t sure if it was motor oil that got splashed onto the alternator. Not sure. B it the smell was definitely not oil, and it definitely …

I need some help doing a very simple task but I just can't get it done. Getting old is a real bummer but I guess it is better than the alternative. This is my problem. I am attempting to install my new battery cables and I can not figure out how to un-plug the Alternator ground plug. It is located at the bottom of the left battery. I know it comes apart by squeezing or twisting the male from the female. There is one wire from the alternator to the battery neg. From the battery neg. there are two wires. One to the fender ground and one to the control box on the firewall. Both wires run through this plug and I do not want to break it, but I cant see how it comes apart. Is …

Hi everyone, I need some help, I have a 2001 dodge 24v and I bought the Denso diode pack from the site store to replace the diode in mine. I knew I had a Denso so I bought it. However, I didn't know there were different models. Can I just modify my alternator body to fit the new diode pack? All the holes line up except where the lead comes out of the alternator. Or is there something possibly different between the 2 diode packs? The only real difference is where the lead comes out. The original it comes out of the side. Where the new one comes out of the back. here you can see the new one on top with the lead pointing up and the bottom…

So I pulled the alternator out to swap the rectifier, and found the alternator brush pack garbage, so I pulled the old Napa alternator out and swapped the rectifier into it. I installed the alternator into the truck and hooked the batteries up. Then I started it and checked AC voltage, got .025vac, then switched the volt meter to DC, and it read 12.25v. Puzzled I checked the idiot gauge and sure enough it wasn't charging. I then pulled the old alternator out put it back in and now the truck is still not charging. I took the charging lead off the alternator and it is .05v. I haven't checked for codes, but I will when I locate my scan gauge 2. Anyon…

1999 dodge 2500 Auto new batteries Grid heater deleted Everything else pretty much stock I replaced my alternator in preparation for getting my ECM rebuild. Installed my rebuilt alternator after they replaced the brushes, diodes and rectifier. Started the truck. No charge. Alternator got very hot. Went and got a brand new alternator.. Same thing.. I am looking for help!! Where to start trouble shooting. Hoping the PCM isn't fried too! I am headed to the store tomorrow to buy a new multimeter, mine broke recently, to check the green wire coming off the alternator. Im more worried there is a short somewhere in …

I've finally got around to do the alternator protection fuse, well I checked wiring diagrams just to be sure on which wire and which PCM pin, it's ingrained in me to check,check and check again before snipping wires. Anyway I have a question, is there any reason the green (this is pin 10 conn 2) isn't on the list to fuse protect, my wiring diagram (2001 Dodge FSM) says Blue is neg and Green is pos of the alt field windings, I'd have thought it would be safer to fuse both. Lets say the FSM I have is right and I have no reason to think not (paper BTW) and the green is pos and it shorts to earth somewhere in the harness which BTW is 5ft longer than it needs to be …

Will a denso alternator fit if my original is a bosch, i.e. are the connectors and mounts the same? I was trying to replace the brushes today with Gould's brush/bearing kit, and the rotor seized on my somehow, and now need new alternator. Thanks.

My alternator output is less when warm out than when cold. Now it’s putting out 14.3 on average. When it’s hot it’s more like 13.7. Is this an indication of trouble ahead?

Hey everyone, I hope all is well. I currently have a Bosch alternator and even with the WT mod I am experiencing high AC ripple. I plan to replace the alternator and am wondering if I can replace it with a Denso unit as they seem to be more plentiful than the Bosch units. I also plan to keep my stock alternator and rebuild it with a new rectifier, bearings and brushes. Has anyone rebuilt their Bosch alternator? I'm curious if it is easy to do. I have found a replacement rectifier online so they are available. Thanks and I hope everyone has a happy Thanksgiving. L8tr d

so i was reading this (because i heard that ac noise is bad for ecms) and i was wondering if it would hurt my replacement ecm to crank my truck to check my VAC, and how much diesel i would need to run it to do that, because my fuel sending sending situation is FU*KERD and i don't know when i can get the right parts in, but i can pull fuel out of a jug, just don't want to fight to get a 5 gal bucket, when all i need is a gal. ( also i

Two days ago my CHECK GAGES light came on and the volt gauge sunk to 8V. My USB plug showed 11.9 Volts yup it died. I got a new alternator and a day later it did it again. No error codes either. I checked my PCM protection fuse and sure enough the fuse fell out of the cover. I took a pair of pilers and squeezed the sockets closed again and it fixed. My alternator I've got now is a Bosch not a ND. Yeah make sure to check your fuse holder and be sure its not loose. It weird because mine is taped to the loom and not floppy around.

Started the other day and it's been squeaking a bit, I'm assuming the bearings are going out and I'm don't want to pay $100+ for a parts store special. Are the rebuild kits from genos garage good? And how do I tell if I have the denso or Bosch brand alternator? Thanks.

It was a cold morning at the campground, 24°F, so before starting the truck's engine I flipped the switch to cancel the grid heater bypass and let them do their thing. After the grid heaters cycled the engine was started just fine with all the gauges coming alive. Once the oil reached safe operating pressure I flipped the switch which turns on the onboard air compressor for the exhaust brake. It was now time to get the show on the road and shift to drive; what the, "check engine" light is on. I pull out my handy dandy code reader an get this: P0753 Transmission 3-4 Shift Solenoid / Transmission Relay Circuits P1765 Transmission 12-Volt Sup…