2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I've got a new to me 2000 2500 2WD Regular cab with NV4500 transmission and I believe the HX turbo (rubber wastegate tube). 190k miles and no idea how many miles on or even what injectors it has. I'm looking into upgrades to improve towing performance with a 14000lb trailer (20k GVW). I'm not looking to have huge HP or Torque, just to have a decently powerful, reliable and efficient rig. I definitely don't want to upgrade stuff and push it beyond its limits. I don't currently have a EGT sensor. I know I need one. I've already put on the GDP mechanical fuel pump so hopefully I won't have to worry about the VP44 dying for lack of pressure. Running 2 …

Hello and Help. Does anyone have the length for all the battery cables. Eyelet size would be a nice bonus!! Battery + cross radiator to Battery + Starter to + Battery Driver Battery to Ground Passenger Battery to Ground Thanks! Michael

So my Cummins 53 block with 387,000 and change lost compression along with other issues in cylinder 5 and 6 this still stems from the previous post about injection pump failure. I intend to rebuild so looking at options 1- find 24 valve non 53 donor rebuild and install or if in good enough shape don't rebuild 2- buy a 12 valve rebuild with donor parts from 24 valve pistons head and such and make p-pumped 24 valve. Right now it seems cheaper and an overall better option to go for number 2. Tell me what you guys and gals think I need to make a wise choice here the next 400k depend on it.... lol

Okay, so I decided to replace the terminals on my 2001 dodge Cummins so I replaced all 4 battery terminals and when I went to start it up it started right up but then my check engine light illuminated and when I went to drive it it was in limp mode and it ran like ****. I did the key trick and 1488 and 0237 code came up so I replaced my map sensor and the problem is still occurring.

This past year, i put in a new alternator, replaced the VP, new injectors, new radiator and just had the ECM reworked. I have had a group of electrical gremlins move in to the truck. It has gotten to the point that I do not trust the truck anymore! Been telling everyone it would be my last vehicle. Guess that is not going to happen . Can’t complain though. It has been a good truck. Now the hunt begins!

Just taking a little break from my TC Lock problem - which is still under study/investigation. While digging around, I found this black wire beneath the ABS module. It comes out of the same wiring harness as the wires/connector for the ABS. I rings out to chassis ground. I assume a bolt/screw goes thru the eye, but I see no place within black wires reach for it to go. Does anyone know where it's home is please. I bought truck second hand and it looks like the LEFT Fender might have been replaced. Thanks. Leaky

Return home from our trip up to McCall, Idaho without a hitch after installing the new Timbo APPS at the RV park. Started doing a service on the truck here at home and noticed a little side play in the turbo shaft. Don’t know how much play but it’s enough I can feel it. I’m thinking I should replace it now before it gets worse. Anyone recommend a good stock replacement turbo? The truck is a 2000. Mostly stock. I’ve added Edge Easy box, FASS lift pump, a 4 inch exhaust turbo to Tail pipe and a PakBrake exhaust brake system. Truck has 110,000 miles on it. I don’t want a rebuilt turbo, I prefer new without breaking the bank. Appreciate any opinions…

Watch this video and tell me what you think. Take note, there was about 14k behind me pulling a long grade. WOT and the engine temp starting to climb. There is no engine fan roar but as soon as I let up on the throttle you can hear the engine fan come to life and everything cooled right down. It was about 90*F outside too... I'm wondering if the fan clutch is getting worn out or is there something else going on I'm overlooking.

I’ve recently noticed that when my truck is at WOT the truck will shut down and I will have to crack a few injector lines and bleed air out of the lines. Has anybody else had this issue? It happened last night after I installed new 275hp injectors and did one hard pull and it shut dow, I pulled over and knew what todo from previous incidents. Is it possible I’m out running my VP44? Or the fass150 titanium can’t keep up?

Well as much as I was excited about having an automatic and not shifting gears as much I can now say I hate my automatic! I have hauled two tractors now with my new truck and it absolutely sucks! I am planning to do a 5 speed swap at this point. Here is my parts list so far please add what you think is necessary and add any ideas or concerns about it. NV4500 Bellhousing (will the standard one work or will I need a special one?) Clutch (South Bend ConOFE) Clutch Fork Slave cylinder and resivor NP241DHD t case (will the DLD behind my 47RE work?) Driveshafts Shifter console and cup holder PCM ECM Gauge cluster (Can I …

I have searched the prior posts and articles and have not found anything that reflects the situation I have - if one exists, please send me the link! When I start the truck in the morning, the engine stumbles a bit and acts like it's going to die. It then idles and runs "smoothly". This problem happens only if the truck has sat for at least 10 hours, and not every time. On Monday it DID die, and didn't want to restart at all! I don't believe I drove the truck at all on Sunday, so it sat a LONG time before the restart. I smelled no unburnt fuel in the exhaust after a combined cranking time of 15 seconds, I had my normal 12 PSI of lift pump pressure b…

I did my pedal bushings which made a great improvement side to side but I still have fore and aft play in the clutch of at least an inch. Thoughts?

I have a 1999 24v p-pumped I'm getting a check engine light for low voltage on the tps and the truck also wont shift has a firepunk stage 1 trans. All the mods are in the picture attached. Thanks in advance!!

Finally had to change a oil cooler gasket on my truck. It has been seeping for the last 5 to 6 months leaving a small bit of coolant on the floor of the garage. I will let you all know that oil cooler gasket set is a Cummins only thing. I tried NAPA, Autozone and few others and no one stocks this gasket set. As for changing it out is pretty straight forward. You need to remove the air filter and the oil filter. On the oil filter housing remove the oil hose for the turbo. Then the bolts holding the oil cooler in place are all 10mm heads. After I got it pull out I compared the new and old gasket to realize that the rubber seal lip had failed. You c…

Grid Heater Bypass Simplified The method described below is a simplified way of turning the grid heaters on and off when starting the engine and reducing the electrical load on the alternator without setting a P0380/P0382 code. The bypass solenoid is a 300amp rated Ford type starter solenoid. When both grid heaters are on there is about 180amp draw and after start up the draw is reduced to 90 amps so the bypass relay has a 50% plus overload safety factor. Suggested Parts List 1 Standard Motor Parts starter solenoid SS-598 (bypass solenoid) 1 automotive on/off switch DC rated (your choice of style) 1 ATC fuse holder or fuse bloc…

Truck just died on side of Interstate. Pulled codes off dash......DTC P1694: NO BUS MESSAGES RECEIVED FROM COMPANION MODULE. PDC plug seems to be ok. Faulty ECM ? What else could it be?

I’ve joined the group of dead ecm’s. I had the delayed WTS light for a few years. Other than that no other problems until last week. I went to start the truck and no WTS light, no lift pump, and no start. I sent it off to Auto Computer Specialist in Florida after seeing they were recommended on here. They received it yesterday about this time. I haven’t heard anything from them yet, I figured it might be a couple days before I hear anything. Can someone who has used them give me an idea of the turnaround time? I will post back on here how my experience goes with them.

02 3500 dually 6sp nv5600 quad cab 2wd independent suspension approx 230k miles. It has the 5.9HO. I've had this truck for about 6 years, never had any clutch issues. I don't know the full history of it so I'm assuming it may have the factory clutch. This weekend I noticed it was hard to get in gear, like the clutch was not fully disengaging. I was towing a trailer for a couple days (not really a huge trailer, 10ft enclosed single axle, not really too heavy or loaded etc, prolly 3000lbs total). Clutch issue started after I had backed in and parked / disconnected the trailer. After I pulled away, I noticed it was hard to get in gear.…

So upon putting things back together on my truck after the vacuum pump rebuild, I think it is time for new IC boots and clamps.. I don't have the truck here today and am wanting to look at all my options. Does anyone know the sizes of the boots and clamps? Also if you have replaced yours and like or don't like anything about what you replaced with, please share that too.. Thank you

Was there someone here on the forum that is making a switch to turn off and on the grid heaters without triggering a check engine light? Or a after market company that supplies something like that?