2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

While poking around under the hood yesterday, I decided to check out the air box. The FILTER MINDER said everything is good... The FILTER didn't agree !!

I have searched for a video about how to check the flywheel bolts to see if they are tight. I have steering wheel vibration. It pretty much goes away when driving. The damper looks ok. Also, Could this be a PS problem? The engine does not vibrate, just the steering wheel.

Is it necessary to disconnect the battery s to pull out, check, or replace a relay in the circuit box? Rick

as my first post i would like to thank you guys for teaching me so much, however i am new to the dodge world and there is so much to learn! i have read that the key trick will not work to check for codes on a 2001 24v. is this true?i do the key trick and i get "P done." the reason why i'm asking is my truck feels a little sluggish. i'm getting good fuel pressure 16-17 idle & 12 WOT. no hard starts, sometimes a little gear hunt once in a while but nothing major. just wondering about the APPS. my truck just hit 81,xxx miles and i am concerned about things that might possibly need maintenance. i got my fuel pressure under control and i'm running 2-cycle oil in my fuel (t…

OK guys when checking for boost leak do i plug off air horn when i pump it up to 20lbs it don't hold very long i bought tester looked at tube didn't find no good info but installed boost gauge it makes 20 when mashing skinny pedal down 4lb at 50 and holds it 6-8 at 70 holds it could i still have leak its a automatic thanks

I have code P0230 transfer pump circuit out of range. I have resistance at 5 ohms everywhere except at the transfer pump connector between the blk/wht wire and yel/wht wire When checking the resistance at the transfer pump connector I have no resistance the ohm meter acts like I haven't connected to anything. Any help is appreciated I'm going by moparman's instructions how to check the resistance

after reading a couple recent posts here about various symptoms, checking the wastegate for being stuck was mentioned a few times. Thought I'd check mine. Shoot some air, about 20 lbs? What kind of travel should I see if working ok? Is 90 degree bellcrank movement about right? To be honest, I don't even know if the bellcrank is even visible from the topside! I know I can see the rod going back..

Lost my Speedometer the other day and started troubleshooting. Only to find the abs ring is toast and the pinion gear had chipped and caused all the damage. The rearend was rebuilt 3years ago and has 36k on it. Any my idea what would cause this to happen? Poor install? Poor Material? I only haul 7k for 6 to 8,000 miles a year.

I hate to ask this but I am searched out and don't know what the issue could be. The last couple of times out my truck has developed a weird pulsating, choking, issue while driving. It mostly happens when I am going highway speeds 60-65 and gently get in to the throttle a little more to get up a hill or pass someone. This happens when towing and not towing. If i back out of it it will stop, If I roll into the accelerator more it goes away. It has become a consistent problem. It is the truck in my sig line. So far I 've gone and checked codes.(key trick) Got the 1693 Companion code, had the codes read at autozone and nothing popped up. fuel pressure is consistent at 16 ps…

Hi, I'm trying to select the correct range of gauge to monitor my 47RE with a 5" aftermarket pan. Choices are: 100 - 280 or 140 - 320 Any suggestions please? Thanks. Leaky

Hi folks. I am interested in settling on the right fuel transfer pump for my 1998.5 24V 2500. My engine is stock. I have no plans to increase horsepower or torque. I have 157,200 miles. I bought the truck last August. Right before I bought it, the VP44 had failed and been replaced in June. However the lift pump was not replaced. I decided to dig in a learn a bit about this known problem. I purchased a fuel pressure test gauge and checked the stock Carter pump. Readings were ok for the stock system, but a little down. I decided to change it out ASAP with another stock Carter pump at that time. I wanted to experiment and track some results. With the new Carter in I was…

Let me approach this subject a different way. I am looking for a different turbo for one of my 01 3500's and would like to know if there is any math or formula to help you make this choice? I know you have to try to match the air to fuel ratio, but thats it. I have BD's 110 injectors in this particular 3500 with a stock turbo and she always has a 16' company trailer attached to it with aluminum extrusion and ladders on it. I am just wanting a little more lower and a little lower EGT's without changing injectors of course. My other mods on the truck are basically the same for this one that is in my Sig below. If you need ,more info let me know and I will gladly…

I keep reading in the news about how the new owners of "Chrysler & etc" are planning to separate Dodge autos from Dodge trucks... in my mind they are preping to sell off the truck division. Meanwhile assembly lines are shut down, engine lines are shut down... My daily driver is a Cirrus. I wonder if the French get it that American drivers do not want & I doubt will buy some warmed over Renault. I fear these missteps will put Chrysler... bailed out with tax payer money... into the crapper for good! Russ

Does anyone know where to get 15w40 CI-4 without buying amsoil? I use amsoil in my 03 but I want to stick with conventional in my 98. I would love to find some valvoline premium blue classic and have emailed valvoline with no reply. I know im eventually going to probably have to switch to CJ-4 (or amsoil) but I want to put it off as long as I can.

Excuse my haphazard post if this has already by discussed, but I felt that it would be something us guys with older trucks would care about. That being the introduction of CK-4 oil replacing CJ-4. Apparently its an issue for Ford whereby they claim accelerated wear in their engines with this new oil. Anyone have any experience or knowledge of what this new CK-4 classification is all about.....or why it was introduced? I dont care other than I dont want my "older" engine to wear out for sake of environmentalism.

I recieved a postcard regarding a settled class action on the 53 block,documentation is required to claim a max $500(i know not much) but the crack would have to occured after the 5/100 warranty and before 250k:spend:,but i believe that is you have a 53 block you will recieve one.

Where are they. Guide me there. I want to spend money !

Is the banjo bolt on the clean side of the filter (left side in the picture) holding the line to the VP44 the same size as the tapped banjo bolts geno's garage sells? I want to replace it with a tapped banjo bolt so that I have an access point to test my fuel pressure once my permanent gauge is installed. In other words, I'll be using the capped port on the clean side of the filter for my permanent gauge going into the cab, but want to be able to hook up my test gauge to test the accuracy of the Isspro I'm installing (mech) using the line out going to the VP with a tapped banjo bolt, but don't want to take that bolt out if it's not the same size. Thanks. Lastly, is this a…

I need to clean my connections in hopes of improved automatic transmission shifting. I am wondering about the use of dynalectric grease on connections followed by that red battery connection aerosol spray to keep connections sealed.

Hey there again. I got started on trying to clean up my stock injector lines that came with the truck and was curious if anyone had some good ideas or better ones than I had to knock this task out. Thought of scotch brite over the whole thing then a thorough cleaning and blow out. I have better pictures of mine now and some of the ends I'll be working with. Maybe prime and paint afterwards? Something to soak these bad boys in?