2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Having an issue and just starting to look for the cause. Have a 1999 24v with a 5 speed transmission that will shut down after you let off the accelerator when you accelerate hard. After it dies you have to crank the engine excessively to get it to restart. At times it won't restart unless you pull/coast start it or bleed the injector lines.

So I finally got around to installing the 103lb springs and pushrods which went well started truck with no problems and runs well. But after sitting over night had to turn over quite a bit to get it to fire off. I think I must have a leak somewhere between vp and injectors but I can't see one. I used all new o-rings from DAP and new copper washers I was a little hesitant about the washers though b/c new ones were 1.5mm and old were 2 mm but guys at DAP said it should be fine. Any ideas where to start?

Just picked up a 98 24v that is having the typical TC lock/unlock issues BUT also sometimes the TC is not unlocking at all and when coming to a stop it stalls the engine out. Put it in park or neutral it fires back up and then you have to play the throttle to get it rolling or it will just stall out again also just driving around I can tell the TC is randomly locked because the engine will really struggle to pick up speed (sometimes I can tell TC is unlocked and everything feels fine). I haven't done any testing yet but from what I can see there are several wires wrapped with tinfoil , I know it has a new alternator, new lift pump, new interstate batteries(connections loo…

I ordered a BHAF from DAP and it came on Thursday. Been busy running back and forth all week. I've always been basing the filter change on the filter minder that I typically always just drilled a hole and stuffed the grommet in and the filter minder. I'm going to walk away from that method and start moving over to yearly changes of the air filter. I can't say right now if there any impact in MPG numbers or not but you sure can hear the turbo whine now compared to with the old filter. I'll keep you all posted.

Hello, new to the forum To get started here I bought my truck about 6 months ago (99 dodge cummins) first cummins. And everything seemed fine for a couple months then the park break and ABS lights came on, didnt think much of it as for the truck still ran perfectly fine a few weeks later I start getting this problem of idle jumping around and speedometer jumping around while driving and it jumping in and out of overdrive. (im guessing) Then just from driving around like the dumb kid I am (not being very nice to my truck) I lost my transmission, had it rebuilt by RedLine Transmissions in Boise ID. When I got it back the park break and ABS …

Well I’m thinking about doin a turbo swap. I would like to have around 400 450 hp. I will be purchasing a qaud v2 before too long. I’m thinking I will do injectors too. What size would you do with the HE351 and v2? And now for the turbo... do I want the variable geometry or the cw model? I would also like an exhaust brake which I believe is built into these turbos? Has anyone else done this swap? What was your experience? Anyone please chip in with questions comments or concerns. Mods should be in signature. Fass 150 is alsonin the books before long! And just to clarify the truck is running well now. No issues besides the fact it snowed 6 inches yesterd…

Ive been chasing down problems with this new to me 98 24v and just got a pretty big indicator I think. First I diagnosed alternator AC problems causing TC lock/unlock issues, and then narrowed down my TC not unlocking to a couple things but now I was just out for a drive, stopped at a buddies house and we figured it was idling a little high 900rpm(ish) and the CEL kicked on while I was there. I was going to try an APPS reset when I got home but on my way home cruising down the highway my throttle pedal went dead and I had to be towed home. Pulled the codes and got P0121, P0122, P0216, P0234, and of course a P1693 to go with it all. I know what the definition of each cod…

My push on tee fitting is leaking at the stem going to fuel gauge, very little but enough I should fix. Wrapped with Teflon tape maybe 4 or 5 wraps. Buy another fitting or is JB Weld alright to use in diesel fuel?

I have heard that their is a mod where you can trick the map sensor into fueling all the time. How does one go about doing this I’ve heard you can throw resistors at it or a buddy of mine told me that you can put that sensor under a certain amount of pressure tricking it to fuel all the time. Does this work? If it does how much hp could you gain? Will the engine check light come on? If the resistors do work how do u go about doing that. Really any info will work. Really looking for info just on the 2 gens.

Does anyone out there have any information at all regarding H-Pumps on a 24v? Fit, cc, build specs etc. There was a guy over on CF who got a hold of one a while back but the project never went anywhere. I really haven't seen or heard much about them so just curious if anyone has any information on them.

Is there an overall consensus on tapping the vp? How does it affect longevity, etc.?

I’ve been trying to do some research of what the purpose of a lock up switch is but can’t find a clear answer. I get that it’s used to lock up the convertor but what I can’t find a clear answer on is under what scenarios would you want to use a lock up switch? I know this is a newbie question but I just don’t know the answer to it ?

Life’s little surprises have put a near end to building the truck I want! Lol I’ve decided to put all upgrades on hold for now. Going to drive my truck stock for a while until I can afford to do what I want! I’m forced to sell my current tuner because I have some bills too pay and it sucks! I m planning to hopefully do some 50 hp sticks yo help with a little power and fuel economy are these the right size for max mpg? If possible I’d like to do @Mopar1973Man light upgrade so I can see the darn road lol . I’m sure y’all have been down this road too?

Anyone have firsthand experience with either? Whay can be said about either? Do they live up to the hype?

Does the Moparman harness need 12 volts since I have not seen any videos with people hooking up 12volts

I'm replacing this wire: The wire is a shielded twisted-pair with a drain (SAE J1939/11). The wire seen here is the stock wire. It's comically unkempt. Note that the orange wire is about five inches too long, so that it must be doubled-back to make it the proper length. Also, the shielding is missing from the first six inches, and the last four inches. Neither of these is a problem from a functionality standpoint. I mean, it probably doesn't hurt anything. It's just sloppy. That loose twist of shielding provides no benefit, so why did they leave it loose like that? This is what I made to replace it. All new wire and…

Been having problems for awhile with my torque converter not locking in. Took it the shop and they put a new torque converter and selenoids in the valve body. Started working but now it’s having the same problem. Also the voltage gauge has now started staying at zero and won’t crank. Every once in awhile it will crank and after you drive around for a few minutes the gauge will go back to zero. Checked all the grounds off the batteries and they seem fine. Any help appreciated.

New to the site and i know that this topic has probably cover dozens of times. I feel my issue is slightly unique than others covered on here. Truck runs fine at operating temp of 190, until you down shift into a lower gear such as 2nd or 3rd and use that gear to hold you back going down a hill for a slightly longer period of time(or shut off for a few minutes it will start to miss as well). It starts to miss and rough idle this will continue until you can accelerate through the gears(miss will stick around until 1800 or so RPM). If it is shut off while missing you can come out the next morning and start it up it will still have a miss/rough idle. I had i…

So ever since I had the drop in fuel pressure which I have not mechanically tested yet my fuel economy has steadily went down since then. Have not had the chance to hand calculate yet but lie o meter says it went from 16.8 to 14.3. I picked up a tester today so I’ll be able to rest idle pressure soon. Where do I hook up the tester? The pressure went went down and then back up to 17 18 at idle and 12 13 wot. Used to be 19 20 at idle and 15 16 wot before the drop.

Tried 3 times to contact Eric (on vacation maybe?) The valve at top of his pressure tester...should it be leak proof or not leak proof? and turning screw on tester only depresses the valve stem (to allow pressure in) on what ever you are testing?