2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

A little while ago i posted about an engine knocking/pulsating sound. I changed injectors and adjusted valves and the noise is still there. The engine is definitely more rattly since I first got the truck 6 years ago. I also got an oil test and everything came back ABOVE average. Has the same amount of blowby as it always had at operating temp. Where do I go from here after doing all of this? Is there an engine condition that wouldn't show up on an oil test? Can an injection pump thats going out cause noises? Where do I go from here? Video below to hear what you guys think. 20190713_105753.mp4

Rough surging idle when cold recently installed 100 horse injectors,fass 165 lift pump,s&b air intake,xdp exhaust manifold,5" mbrp exhaust, quadzilla tuner runs great under load just bouncing at idle when cold and when coasting run it for awhile and it smoothes out driving me crazy. Oh and I did replace apps sensor before I did any of the other upgrades,and reset after upgrades wonduring what else I can check or if anyone else has experienced this thanks for any help.

Has anyone tried this? I've watched a couple videos about it but I'm still questioning it... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teAV96QfAyg

Just my experience, I have run 6 different sets of injectors. Stock, DAP 60hp VCO, DFI 100hp VCO, DAP 100hp SAC, Contagious 40-50hp SAC and now Bosch RV275 VCO. All VCOs ran great in every scenario, and both sets of SAC injectors gave a rough/choppy idle when warm in park and a stumble when warm at light throttle. SACs ran great with some throttle, but I couldn’t handle the choppiness. SACs gave me a scare I had engine issues, but new RV275s put that to rest.

Hello all, I too am in a similar situation with my truck.....I recently took ownership from my uncle, who recently passed away and left it to me. I would normally never own a diesel, but as I mentioned....it has much sentimental value to me, I have to do my very best to honor my uncle. That said, he had spent a large amount of money on the truck, he has all the bells and whistles you might expect, the Quadzilla system, the exhaust extras from Bulldog and on and on it went. I am not very skilled at mechanics, but I am a cheap man, so if I can do it myself, I will. Still, the problems seem to be adding up, and now the truck will not turn over at all, its obviousl…

Had to share on of the locals wanted the diff and transmission fluid changed. I did find another transmission fluid for NV4500. It is a GL-4 75w-90 lube. Limited slip rear end with 75w-140.

I need to change the air dog 100 filter which filter do I choose. I see the 2 micron and the 10 micron on amazon not sure which is best I believe there is a 10 micron in there now. Thanks

Hi Guys, O.K. WT modification and did the 150 Amp circuit breaker modification 6 months ago followed up with the Fuse in the field wire. Got in the truck and drove to the post office 98 deg. AC on full. Come out of the post office and cell phone charger is flashing Low voltage. Volt meter is to 0. Stop get out and reset the circuit breaker, it had tripped. Get on to freeway and drive to next town for dentist app. Bam the voltage drops to 0. Pull over after getting off the freeway, reset circuit breaker. Turn off the AC, roll the windows down. Start Truck and we get 14 volts. Drive for a bit and the Faulty gauge idiot light comes on, still ha…

Running fine, turn corner push to 1/4 throttle instantly dies coast to shoulder. Sits for about 10 min to give a once over. turn the key it rough idles for 2 min then smooths out. It continued to do this rough idle start & then smooth out. Towed it home. Changed fuel filter, hooked up my Smarty to read codes. (7) codes P0251 Fuel Inj pump fail (replaced lift pump 6 months ago carter) (I can hear it run when bumped) P0252 Inj pump fuel metering P1688 Internal fuel inj pump controller fail P0254 Fuel Inj pump mech fail fuel valve P1693 Generic fault indicating fault in bus or PCM/ECM interface P0602 Control module programming error P0…

So I'm planning on buying a fifthwheel roughly 10,000 lbs I have 35" tires on my truck I would like to keep those for pulling probably best is the switch to 4.10?What's best do the complete axle or just do the gears?I'm running a Fass ddrp with fuel lines 3/8" from tank,installed a bhaf breather,4" exhaust and a smarty s03,turbo is the hy 35,my tranny is the 47re rebuilt triple disc.

i need some fan clutch help. local a/c place swapped out my oem fan clutch and replaced it. didnt ask them to but they did. now a/c temp rises at stop lights. the fan clutch they put on, the fins are much shorter than the fins in the picture in @Mopar1973Man "cooling system flush" article. does anyone know the brand/type/part number you have on your truck. i got 2 numbers from parts look up tool, need to find the proper fan clutch and get it cooling correctly again. the one i looked at from autozone have short fins also. for comparison, belt is 1-1/16" wide first picture is of @Mopar1973Man fan clutch fins second picture is from thoroughbred d…

First post! Howdy y'all. I have heard good things about these forums. Anyway, my truck (see sig) has some weird issues. It runs great, then all of a sudden it will lose throttle, pedal it a little and it will come back. It is also shifting very erratically. 1st sometimes hangs, 2nd to 3rd normally fine, 3rd to OD and lockup it hunts really bad for both.. Going to check alternator for Ac voltage tomorrow and add/clean grounds and some of the normal things. Anything else I should check or do? Has a brand new Industrial Injection VP and Fass lift pump. When the truck runs, she runs good. Fast, strong, shifts GREAT. Also, no codes thrown! Validated with Snap…

I've got a new to me 2000 2500 2WD Regular cab with NV4500 transmission and I believe the HX turbo (rubber wastegate tube). 190k miles and no idea how many miles on or even what injectors it has. I'm looking into upgrades to improve towing performance with a 14000lb trailer (20k GVW). I'm not looking to have huge HP or Torque, just to have a decently powerful, reliable and efficient rig. I definitely don't want to upgrade stuff and push it beyond its limits. I don't currently have a EGT sensor. I know I need one. I've already put on the GDP mechanical fuel pump so hopefully I won't have to worry about the VP44 dying for lack of pressure. Running 2 …

Hello and Help. Does anyone have the length for all the battery cables. Eyelet size would be a nice bonus!! Battery + cross radiator to Battery + Starter to + Battery Driver Battery to Ground Passenger Battery to Ground Thanks! Michael

So my Cummins 53 block with 387,000 and change lost compression along with other issues in cylinder 5 and 6 this still stems from the previous post about injection pump failure. I intend to rebuild so looking at options 1- find 24 valve non 53 donor rebuild and install or if in good enough shape don't rebuild 2- buy a 12 valve rebuild with donor parts from 24 valve pistons head and such and make p-pumped 24 valve. Right now it seems cheaper and an overall better option to go for number 2. Tell me what you guys and gals think I need to make a wise choice here the next 400k depend on it.... lol

Okay, so I decided to replace the terminals on my 2001 dodge Cummins so I replaced all 4 battery terminals and when I went to start it up it started right up but then my check engine light illuminated and when I went to drive it it was in limp mode and it ran like ****. I did the key trick and 1488 and 0237 code came up so I replaced my map sensor and the problem is still occurring.

This past year, i put in a new alternator, replaced the VP, new injectors, new radiator and just had the ECM reworked. I have had a group of electrical gremlins move in to the truck. It has gotten to the point that I do not trust the truck anymore! Been telling everyone it would be my last vehicle. Guess that is not going to happen . Can’t complain though. It has been a good truck. Now the hunt begins!

Just taking a little break from my TC Lock problem - which is still under study/investigation. While digging around, I found this black wire beneath the ABS module. It comes out of the same wiring harness as the wires/connector for the ABS. I rings out to chassis ground. I assume a bolt/screw goes thru the eye, but I see no place within black wires reach for it to go. Does anyone know where it's home is please. I bought truck second hand and it looks like the LEFT Fender might have been replaced. Thanks. Leaky

Return home from our trip up to McCall, Idaho without a hitch after installing the new Timbo APPS at the RV park. Started doing a service on the truck here at home and noticed a little side play in the turbo shaft. Don’t know how much play but it’s enough I can feel it. I’m thinking I should replace it now before it gets worse. Anyone recommend a good stock replacement turbo? The truck is a 2000. Mostly stock. I’ve added Edge Easy box, FASS lift pump, a 4 inch exhaust turbo to Tail pipe and a PakBrake exhaust brake system. Truck has 110,000 miles on it. I don’t want a rebuilt turbo, I prefer new without breaking the bank. Appreciate any opinions…

Watch this video and tell me what you think. Take note, there was about 14k behind me pulling a long grade. WOT and the engine temp starting to climb. There is no engine fan roar but as soon as I let up on the throttle you can hear the engine fan come to life and everything cooled right down. It was about 90*F outside too... I'm wondering if the fan clutch is getting worn out or is there something else going on I'm overlooking.