2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

So as I was walking down my driveway today, I happened to look at my truck to see it sagging towards the driver side. So I just double checked my sanity and grabbed a couple levels and put them on my bed and sure enough it was leaning over towards that way. Next step, I measured the driveway, and believe it or not the driveway "leans" towards the passenger side! So I measured the tires, front left to front right and so forth and sure enough on the rear driver side tires, they're over an inch off, whereas the fronts are 1/2". Also I might add, when I step up into the truck that leaf close to where it connects to the front shackle creeks pretty good, and its easy to rock th…

Hello as the title states my tach will not read past 2000-2200 RPMs. It seems like it ready correctly while cruising and idle but stops right around 2-2.2k. I went ahead and gave it full throttle with my quad logging at it shows it actually going to ~3200RPM with the audio sound of it hitting the limiter. Is my gauge cluster just bad or am I looking at something more in-depth? In my long quest of fixing this truck i'll be replacing the VP and injectors in the upcoming week and want to ensure I don't have a ECM/PCM issue possibly. I've considered removing them and having them sent off for testing but I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes that i'm aw…

2 fenders, both driver side doors, bed and tailgate back from the paint shop. Got the bed and most of the driver fender done today. Its coming together. Interior is coming next with a rewiring of everything and a dash rebuild.

Hi All, I have an 02 2500 6sp diesel truck that has a bad AC compressor that I plan on replacing. I decided to buy the kit from rock auto that contains the compressor, condenser, orifice tube, accumulator, and some seals. I figured since the truck has the original components and the kit was not bad in price, I would just install the new kit. This is the first time I am replacing items like and I want to make sure I do this properly and don't screw things up. Not willing to pay the prices to have others install these components. I have been doing my research and I think I have everything I need, but I have a few questions I was hoping you guys co…

a few months ago, I replaced my shocks all the way around on my truck. They were shot, replaced them with bilstein 5100. It definitely helped the up and down recover, but the truck still bounces side to side a lot more. What I mean is if I hit a speed bump one tire at a time, the truck rocks side to side much more than I remeber it doing originally. Looked at the sway bar links, and don't see any kind of wear on it, even when I bounce it manually. So maybe the coils are tired? How can you tell? What other causes might there be? Up and down is fine, so I don't think its the shocks.

Since iver owned this truck I've noticed the turning radius is garbage compared to my 2006 gmc 2500 gasser. While looking at my lower control arms I can see where the steering stop is slowly eating away at the lower control arm, which makes me think there is more availability to turn the wheel. Has any one cut the steering stops off before to decrease turning radius on these 2wd trucks ? I've debated cutting off a 1/4 -1/2" to see how well it helps worst case scenario I cut to much off and have to weld a piece of bar to the lower control arm to make up for the piece from the spindle I cut off.

I've started a little project and in need of the out put voltage/cycle frequency mapped at different speeds for the RE47 output shaft speed sensor to the PCM, the rear axle speed sensor to the ABS controller, or the ABS to the PCM; also the differential size of the truck the info was obtained from. I know this is a shot in the dark but what the hell. Thanks

So if this is wrong section move please. I had a main brake line failure today, thankfully while teaching nephew manual transmission. he was standing on the brake and thankfully caused the fault which would have been very bad had i been at speed. it is the steel main line along driver frame rail leading to the rear brake valve. all rubber lines still look good but im gonna redo ALL brake lines steel and rubber to have a fresh system.

I dont know if this starts a new thread, as HAGGAR suggested, I'm new to the forum, not tech savvy, and have only a tiny phone to post with...so please, bear with me. I'll try and recap, I've cleaned and reinstalled ALL the grounds for the headlight circuit to the best of my ability. I had no broken or loose wires., and the SINGLE 40 amp fuse checks out. I have no other current wiring or lighting issues, stop, turn, and tail all work, as do all running lights and in cab lighting. in the below pick, with selector on high beam, the passenger side light plug works, with 12+volts at the pin on the right as seen. On the drivers side, this pin registers .52vol…

I've had a heater core leak before (different vehicle) so I'm familiar with the signs. The heater core in my '01 3500 has me questioning it. When I turn on the heater I will slowly get a fog on the inside of the windshield, then eventually on the door glass but I do not smell coolant. If I crack the windows and turn off the heater the fog will go away after a few minutes and leave no slimy film like coolant would. I don't have any leaks on the floor either. I don't want to do a heater core right now. I would rather accumulate what I need to do the heater core, a/c coil and replace dash board top all at once. Probably about a $500 ordeal. I also don't like to …

Pretty sure I’ve narrowed it down to the window seal leaking and thats how water is getting in the cab. On the back seat and window. But only when it rains hard. ive resealed the 3rd brake light and cab lights with silicone, new door seals, window seals, windshield seal, cab seals, and quad cab door seals. has anyone removed the window? I found a seal online but have no idea how to remove and replace.

As the title says, I received an unexpected package in the mail yesterday. A brand new set of headlights, complete plug and play with turn signal and new halogen bulbs installed. The wife though I went on a parts binge again so I was getting questions lol. I come to find out that a good friend of mine that had stopped over last weekend had noticed my terribly clouded and full of moisture headlights on my truck. He took it upon himself to order up a full set and have them shipped to me. They are basically stock replacements but I do greatly appreciate his generosity! Looking forward to getting them installed!

I need to cut out and replace the coil spring buckets due to rust. I remember reading here that a spring compresser isn't needed if you remove this and that and support the frame while dropping the axle. As I prepare to do this I'd like a refresher. What all gets removed? Can I do both at one time or one then the other? Any other tricks or tips on replacing the buckets? TIA

First off since my passenger light got smashed I ordered new housings(see pic) and hated the halogen bulbs they were crap. Decided to upgraded to LED Conversion (see pic). Just looked at a couple old posts saying the LED lights in the housings are super bright and are a issue for oncoming drivers. If this is true I dont mind taking a loss of the 130 bucks if I cant send these back for lights that's are safer for other drivers and still bright enough for me. Also will be replacing brakes and rotors soon what brand or brakes and rotors are everyone running. I tow alot and need good brakes. Looking for suggestions on all thanks.

Looking at the dodge off road steering brace. Is is worth it? Or should I buy else where or save my money all together? Heard some bad experiences from the customer service..

Alright I know it's been brought up in past, now that more time gone by I'd like to hear more on ways of balancing tires. Mainly I'm interested in people that use balancing beeds like counteract. I used them in trailer before and honestly couldn't tell you the difference as it never gave me problems before. I also used it in a suburban of some one I know and rode in it with good results. I am now thinking of getting rid of waights on my truck and using them. My few year old wheels are starting to get that aluminum corrosion under waights on wheels so I want to use beeds jus need some more imput.

Hello, I have 98 dodge 3500. The left headlight is dim on both beams and I checked the grounds replaced the bulb. It only has one fuse and the right light is bright. Sockets are not corroded but the dim light is 7 tenths of a volt less then the right one measured at the socket. Could the headlight switch be causing the problem? The dimmer switch seems fine.

Thinking about installing large turn signals on towing mirrors, so the people that are beside your trailer, in the other lane and staying there forever...get a big clue to move. How hard do you think it would be to install turn signals on towing mirrors? Wiring. Just tap into wiring? Installing the signals...maybe a simple bracket? All ideas appreciated Thanks

I watched a few vids on YouTube, then started to take my driver's side hub off. I pulled the axle out to discover my truck doesn't match the videos I've seen online. The vids appear to have a lock ring and a dowel that keeps the somewhat large nut from turning. Mine seems to have a piece of the metal pulled up, to create two tabs, to block the hex nut from backing out. I folded the two tabs down so I could take the nut off. But I can't seem to get any tools in there to turn the nut. I don't recall the size, but with calipers I think I measured 66 mm for that nut. Any ideas?

I have a switch box from a police car that I want to install for various things in the future. I'm not sure where the best place to pull power from would be. I have it down to either the positive side of the battery (driver's side) or the power lead that feeds the fuse box under the hood. Which would be better? I know either one of those places would not be keyed power so I would have to be sure all accessories are off when I shut her down. The switch box I have is rated for quite a bit. Switch 1 is routed through a 40a automotive breaker, switches 2-6 are protected by 20a blade type fuses in the rear of the box. Any help or ideas are appreciated. Thanks.