2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I've got an ECM that no longer powers the lift pump on an 02 24v Cummins HO. I replaced the VP44 and hotwired the aftermarket lift pump (airdog raptor) to test. Manually supplying power to the lift pump and bleeding injectors did the trick, so now I need to wire it in properly. I read the article on RF noise with aftermarket lift pumps, so I'll modify the harness with a .1 Mfd Orange drop capacitor and modify the pump when I have it out again. Given that my ECM lift pump circuit is DOA, where should I grab a trigger voltage to engage the lift pump relay? I am looking at the light green and black wire carrying ignition…

Heater core in the 98 was steaming up the windows and would barely get to 120 over the winter so I need to replace it. I had every intention of replacing it later this year before it got cold out but im going to Colorado for a week at the end of this month and its in the 30's at night with high's in the 50's so im gonna swap it out this week. Ive ordered a TYC core and its supposed to be here Wednesday. The problem i foresee is the dash in this truck has a cover over it and the screws have been covered up. Im pretty sure I need to remove those screws but I dont know their exact location. I think the best way will be to use a small hole saw just above the screw but I need …

I have race truck mirrors on my truck. Have lived with them for about 15years. I now have welder in the back window so only have mirrors. The race truck mirrors look good but I cant see **** so many blind spots and no view when turning my head to see ttaffic. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232151453539 These caught my eye. I dont care that they have led. Dont even really care if there manual or powerd adjust. I think they look good and should improve rear and side view. Driving our dump truck is a better experience because I can see so much better. What mirrors is everyone ru…

what really sucks is when you have iquad and all your tunes are on a single phone the battery ends up giving up the ghost and smoking out of the power connector while you're driving down the road and u loose the tune and everything arrrge annoyed

Thinking the rear ABS speed sensor is also used for setting cruise, can't see it connected in wiring diagrams, must be in PCM, am I correct in thinking these are related problems?

OK Guy's.."The moment you've all been waiting for" Here is a complete start to finish Details on Converting Standard 2-headlight system to a Sport Quad headlight sys. i did a few months ago Let me tell you it was a P.I.T.A...i had nothing to go on as none of the threads i found on any of the forums involved building your own from scratch "w/Heavy Duty Stuff" ..most of the write ups were people who had bought a pre-wired harness..like the ones for example suvlights.com or others..all reported problems either "fog lights staying on..lights would not turn off, lights would not come on or lights were dim on bright, etc... So not finding any information in relation to a pos…

I did the cooling system flush on my 98 24valve. I was going to do this on my sons 2006 Jeep Wrangler. Shouldn't it work on the jeep just like my truck? Thanks

After getting rear ended by a loser with a suspended license and no insurance I decided it was time for a real rear bumper. I really didn't want to spend $700-1500 for a bumper so I started building my own. It's all 1/4" plate with 1/2" brackets. I got all the metal from Metal Supermarket from their cut table for 0.75 per pound. I still have to cut holes for the back-up lights, weld the bumper to the mounts, and either paint or powder coat it. When this one is finished I will be moving on to the front bumper. I plan to build it in the same style and have a winch mount. If anyone has done something similar i welcome any input, criticism, or advice. This is my first bumper…

Had bearing in the blower motor thats been chirping to me on and off for a while. So this weekend I finally swapped it and the resistor out. Sure made a nice difference in the air flow. The old was one I replaced the OE with about 9or 10 years. The shaft was fairly tight and I am sure it took some extea power to turn. Anyway the extra air flow is nice to have back.

The seats in my 96 are getting pretty ratty and I'd like to swap them out for something better. Will any second gen truck seats work? Bob

The truck has 82K on the clock – All of a sudden I am experiencing a death wobble around 40 to 50 MPH only under certain conditions. The truck has a Trick Flow tank in the bed. If I put 150 LBS close to the tail gate and hit a small bump it will go into the shakes. If I move the load over the wheels nothing. If I hook my trailer up (10,000 lbs), nothing. My mechanic has replaced a part on the pitman arm and added a steering stabilizer and said the ball joints are fine. I went to a respected alignment shop yesterday and the response was “ Yep that’s a Dodge alright”. I am going to put new tires on the front today since that is a suggested fix but no one seems to be able to…

So I heard the standard grinding screeching noise under a stopping yesterday. Looked at the front brake pads and they are shot. Went on RockAuto for a new set of pads and rotors. I noticed a lot of different options. Prices ranging from 25 each for rotors up to 250 for the top end. Is there a substantial difference between the low end, mid grade and top end? I don't pull heavy loads, just daily driving to work. I'm of the school of thought that you get what you pay for. I just hate to waste money if its not really any better. I know the pads are substantially different depending on application but the rotors are my real question. Whats everyone else running, rec…

I have a 96’ Ram 2500 4x4 with 4-wheel ABS. The ABS system hasn’t worked in quite some time which is fine by me as the last time it kicked in I almost went through a stop sign and into an another truck. The problem I’m having is the rear brakes will lock up with relatively light pressure. So far I have: • Inspected the rear brakes and checked the adjustment, nothing was wrong. • Replaced the front calipers, pads, and brake lines. • Installed a new master cylinder • Thoroughly bleed the entire system. I’ve had this happen before on a different truck (non-ABS) and the culprit was a malfuncting combination valve. The problem…

Getting ready to replace tie rods and found some ball joints by Detroit, I never heard of them. Or whats your suggestions? All I know is stay away from Moog.

Is there anyone on here that can program an Isspro fuel pressure gauge for me? I would like the warning light to come on at 10 psi. I dont really want to buy the stuff to do it because I only have the 1 Isspro gauge. If someone is willing to do it let me know a price and where to send it. Thanks

Has anybody else had any issue with the female fitting on your trans cooler lines at the front of the truck behind the bumper? I’ve owned my truck for 2.5 years and I’ve probably replaced it 5-6 times. It’s the quick disconnect line it’s keeps leaking out of the fitting

My truck is getting dead pedal at times and the mph needle jumps all over the place again now my iat sensor constantly reads 32° F and kicks itself into 3 cylinder high idle on it's own

Hey all, I couldn't find this info here yet, so I thought I'd share. I can't claim this fix as my own, I found this video and followed the same procedure. Before doing this I had terrible wind noise from both of my doors. I tried the 2x4 trick, and adjusted the door hinges and was able to reduce the noise, but it was still an issue with strong cross winds. To do this you need three items: Fish Tape Latex tubing (I used the 3/8" ID 1/4" OD recommended in the video) Lubricant (I used a product called LiquiFix because its odorless) The procedure basically requires you to remove the weatherstripping from the truck. You th…

Took my truck in for an alignment and they told me they had a problem with the tie rod flopping back and forth when the steering wheel is turned. I also have a sort of “dead spot” in my steering while driving where the steering wheel turns a couple inches but nothing happens. I have what I think is called the “T” style steering system. The tie rod goes across from knuckle to knuckle and the drag link attaches to the tie rod. Maybe the HD style?? Anyways what can I do about the tie rod rolling? All the steering parts are fairly new and not worn.

Started out just gonna clean out heater core etc then it turned into this. The entire cab is dismantled. Ha! Found some moisture issues, gonna clean up some wiring, put some new heat shield/noise damper in, blow out the dust, take out the whole hvac box and clean it, make some new door panels, redo my headliner, get seats cleaned etc. Any recommendations while I'm this far in? I honestly debated pulling the whole dash out and then building my own dash how I wanted it... if anyone wants to spark some interest in this I have a few ideas and pics. Door panels shouldn't be that hard to make, unless I just say screw it and buy some new on…