Mopar1973Man

Ha ******... Yes you can remove the pan without pullin the trans. Just drop the front axle so it hangs, the lift the engine 3 inches. Pull the pick up tube. Out it comes.

Pull the transmission and the oil pan would come out.

Copper should not be used. The following conditions accelerate diesel's aging process: Contact with zinc, copper, or metal alloys that contain zinc or copper. These metals react with diesel and form unstable compounds, which means there is higher potential for dangerous chemical reactions like explosions.

This is why the old term holds true... "Use It Or Lose It" Mine was installed back at 20k miles and currently I'm at 449k miles and it's still working. I use it daily.

The butterfly valve. Typically the brake is junk.

Since I'm doing tie rods all that out of the way makes it a bit more room to get the pan cleaned up.

. Lifted the engine just enough so I can scrape off the old gasket. Both engine mounts are 22mm. It's going to be fun to slip the gasket in.

Should be fixed now...

Me personally I would replace all vacuum lines making sure there is no cracked plastics or fittings. Even if you used a different hose and hooked from the vacuum pump and directly to the exhaust brake it should move. If not iveseen exhaust brakes that have seized from lack of use.

I'll be doing a pan gasket on this truck in my shop. I'm not going to video record this be time is tight. I'm going to unbolt the mounts and lift the engine a few inches to gain space. I did like I normally do and got a NAPA gasket. I'll be starting on this very soon.

Yup your right I doubled up the same video clip. I'm processing it now and upload this morning.

I've not processed a single piece yet. Been to busy just trying to keep up with jobs. Now at 100 plus not happening.

Your going to have to give me a call sometime and point it out in time.

I might of grabbed the wrong file to start again. Opps. When your dealing with like 30 video files you tend to forget what was last. Like I said take a peek... All the video files for this project.

Steel wheels hold up much better over aluminum. But... aluminum has lower rotational mass over steel. Even with the steel wheel I can still net high MPG. Most likely could improve it even more if I could find a set aluminum for summer, that will fit 245s with proper offset.

Funny thing is Mark my renter has been doing all my gasser work and just finished a job on a 2006 Chevy Z71 doing rear seals, new rotors, new calipers, and brakes. Just about 600 dollars worth of parts. When it left here the rear end no longer stinks....

Just be aware the total video length in 1 hour and 17 minutes when I laid it all out. Better grab a few cold beers and bag of popcorn.

@Sycostang67 your going to need a bit of tweaking on that tune mostly the Low PSI Timing Reduct and the Timing Reduct Scaling... If is laggy on the turbos then go higher in both. If it lighting quick but staying retarded to long the short both up.

Here is something to think on there is no vax for cancer, common flu, etc. Then look at the HIV and AIDS its taken YEARS to produce drugs that minimize the effects of the HIV. But now COVID shows up in under 1 year they stamp out a vax for it that doesn't work just look at Joe Biden (Our wonderful President) that bragged about the vax will keep you from getting the COVID. Funny he's now got COVID. I'm sorry gang I'm not going to take a drug that might have side effect of death or altering my DNA. The other thing is if you have natural immunity the chances of getting a second time is greatly reduced where people that have taken the vax and boosters are capable of getting multiple times because it doesn't build your immune system but breaks it down. No vax for me, and I've never had COVID even once.

Then Biden had two Vax shots and 2 booster shots and caught COVID. What good is the Vax if you going to still get infected? How about your damaged DNA? Like another study I seen that vaxxed people have a much higher chance of multiple infections, vs someone is not Vaxed and be naturally immune.

EPA is a real pain in the .

There is no chime for seat belts. The light on my truck is just a switch in the driver side buckle. The plug is under the seat. The seat belt module was because the front seat belts are in the front had no way to lock so the module detects g-force and locks the seat belt for prep of an accident. Later series like mine are weight base so when the weight pulls forward then the seat belt locks.

You know my set up. +50HP injectors should be easy to build a tune for and reduce the smoke. As for loping I would check valve lash, also too much timing down too low in RPM can produce bucking.

Thanks for the information I'll check it out too.

I'll be releasing a install video soon.