Mopar1973Man

Suggestion send them to Dorkweed he's another fellow bird hunter...

Dave it looks like you having a time of your life there... Christmas came and it went here very quietly. No snow really. But it was a very quiet Christmas here.

With 3 Cylinder mode if you trigger it you can flip over to MPG mode shortly after triggering and allow it to finish warming up. Since 3 cylinder is not a hled mode you can flip back to MPG at anytime. It only 6 cylinder mode if you wanted to hold the high idle extended period then you would have to leave it on 6 cylinder.

Merry Christmas all... So what are you all doing for Christmas day and what kind of gifts did you get? Just a nice quiet day out here in the mountains of Idaho and cold morning temps to kick of the day.

Suggested to constant +12V power to alert you that fooler is on and should be switched off. Or you can have it on the key so it can be left in a fooled position without the light always burning. Or... Completely ignore this wire and not hook it up and no light will ever come on. Your choice. But let me tell you that if you opt for constant 12V it will take many many weeks to wipe out a pair of batteries. I leave my cellphone charger in the truck and its got a bright blue LED that glows anytime the charger is plugged in and no issues with that. So I doubt there is any issues with high idle tiny LED.

Heck stock clutch and Edge Comp tends to rip the hubs out of the friction plate. But now with Southbend Con OFE solid as a rock. Since I'm a manual guy mostly I tend to be very watchful of my left foot and keep it away from the pedal when not needed. I've a got a pair here I wear daily. Hawthorn's fire rated boots. No problems with work boots.

Cause. It caused by a ECM that is having trouble booting up. On board memory errors or other types of errors that prevent the system from coming on line and getting the Wait To Start light lit. Till the software is fully booted up it can't do anything including cycling the lift pump, light the wait to start, or even getting grid heaters running. It brain dead till the light comes on. Fix. ECM replacement...

Yeah no kidding congrads on the upgrade for a truck.

I have to agree... That rotor is ready for the scrap heap. Time for new rotor(s). Now I have to say it looks like the slide pins have seized up on you causing the problem of dragging the one pad against that one side constantly.

Last time I heard about RockAuto ECM's they take your ECM and attempt to rebuild the ECM so it might be awhile for the turn around. Call them first and check it out before doing anything.

On the 1997 I just did I placed the truck in park and on the driver side of the frame near the fender is a pivot and a adjustment of the rod. Loosen the clamping bolt and slide the rod/clamp up or down to adjust so both are in park fully.

I guess its time to call BlueChip again. It's still under warranty.

Typically what kills ECM is AC noise from the alternator. (Watch the video below in the link) As for the delay in the wait to start as the ECM has trouble getting booted up from memory errors its still brain dead so just twisting to start and trying to start without a booted ECM is going to do absolutely nothing. Kind of like pressing power switch on your PC and grabbing the mouse in hopes to fire up internet before for it boots up. Just not going to happen. So for here on out you need to wait for the wait to start light to pop on then you can start. Suggestion is check the alternator and consider replacing the ECM soon. If you want to test the ECM just swap it with a friends truck if the problem swap to his truck the ECM is failing.

If its coming from the weep hole then yes the water pump shaft seal is damaged and leaking but typically they continue to leak. I've seen mine when I bought it brand new where the water pump o-ring was bad and weeped coolant now and then. I'm thinking this might be the story for you as well.

Still touching 17.0 to 17.5 on 1996 Dodge Ram with just the winter fronts... Without the winter fronts drops down to 12.5 to 13 MPG.

At least when I re-man something myself I know it going to meet my level of satisfaction...

I think its a good idea of changing the water pump o-ring again. I would lightly sand the hole to ensure the water pump o-ring is going to slid in smoothly and not ball up.

Correct the grid heater is right there on the manifold and it creates temperatures as high as 480-500*F to start a cold Cummins engine. It draws 95 Amps per grid heater being there is 2 elements in the grid heater you can draw 190 Amps total during a cold start.

I agree pop those injectors out and have them pop tested.

Actually this is a sign of plugged up evaporator core. As you can see no matter what the air must flow through the evaporator first before the blend door which is just to the firewall side of the heater core.

Open them up before buying new ones and look at what you got you might be fine.

Compressed air, 2x4 block and a flat blade screwdriver. Use the compressed air and the 2x4 to get the pistons out. The screwdriver to pry out the weather boots. I bought my parts and supplies at RockAuto.Com. The only thing I can see that would force me to get new callipers would be rust pits. But since I keep the brake fluid fresh and callipers clean I might never have to change callipers. I typically just use a bucket of hot soapy water and scrub everything down then blow dry everything instantly with compressed air.

I've been using DOT 3 brake fluid. But flush the system every 30k miles and then break down my callipers every 60k miles or so. After bleeding once typically you push the debris from the master cylinder down to the callipers or wheel cylinders. So I typically will pull them apart and clean the debris out. I'm still running stock brake lines yet zero problems. More on brake fluids... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

Here you go...

41*F and starting to melt off the snow in the yard. I'd plowed one last time for the evening to cut back icing up of chunky snow balls and uneven ground.