Mopar1973Man

I've got the same though a air leak possibly. Oldschool says he's got a AirDog on his truck. I wonder if its a quick connect fitting possibly throwing a bit of air in the system. Fuel pressure gauge?

Did you big line the section between the stock filter can and the VP44?

18 hours 32 minutes and 1,255 miles east of me. http://goo.gl/maps/UhIlI

UPDATE... WARNING! Make sure to test at the battery post on the alternator.

Here is a awesome video... I now have to change to test at the alternator battery post.

Not to hijack but I'm getting on my soap box now... My big problem is Corporate America beating into everyones head that you must have a degree or certification in the jobs you want to do. Yeah... I've got a ITT Tech degree for Computer and Electronics today it completely worthless paper. Technology has moved on what I was trained for is no longer even used.(Transistor FM radios and TV you could actually repair, not to mention the first IBM 8088 processor. http://www.linkedin.com/in/mopar1973man Ok. Now as for the diesel realm I've never been to school for it in my life. I've got no certifications or degrees or education in diesel engines. But I make a living here locally working on vehicles gas or diesels. Not to mention the web site and all you looking for information. So here you are talking and getting information about you truck from a guy that is NOT a certified ASE tech but knows more about Dodge Trucks than most dealers do. What's funny I've actually had a few Dodge dealer tech's actually call me looking for information because the problem they have is not in the Dodge FSM and he can't figure out how to fix it. Strange eh?! I'm climbing down off my soap box now.

Reposted from Idaho Turbo Diesels...

I've done clutches on 5 speeds and they are easy as pie to do by myself but I don't think I want to do a 6 speed.

Funny how most dealers know very little about flashing ECM/PCM beyond the standard updates.

Like you got federal emissions, California emissions, Canadian emissions, automatic transmission, manual transmission, SO vs. HO software, etc. I heard there is like 40 to 50 different versions of software.

Only if its reflashed with 99 software.

Good to hear...

Being the Frantz Filter filter down as tight as it does I don't see a need for the magnet really. As for the toilet paper watch out for short length rolls. Scott's here locally is getting shorter in length. So it doesn't seal properly against the base where it cuts the media for a seal.

I would force the current owner to resolve the title problems himself being he can file for lost title and not have any issues with it. I've been down this road before with a old 1971 Honda motorcycle. Needless to say it's easier for the current owner to file for lost title.

Yeah there might be more thing that hang lower but you know good old Murphy Law would find the fresh sump with a big ol' limb and yank it off the bottom of your tank as you rolling into your hunting camp.Reason I mention this because Murphy's Law managed to push a good sized dent in the floor board of my truck in the back seat floor in my first year of ownership. All I did was turn around in a field and just happen to flip a good size limb between the floor and the frame and POP! New swell in the floor board and the limb broke off and stuck in the frame.

Take care of that transmission with proper fluid and changes you should get a good long service life from it.

You can prove it to yourself by unhooking the Alternator and taking a test drive if the problem goes away you found your issue. To do this remove the alternator fuse and the field lead from the back of the alternator.

Becareful of the sump idea. If you use your truck offroad you might yank that right off the bottom of your tank. Also you might check into local laws about bottom fed tanks.

That is the one and only 2002 I've heard of a KDP failure. It was suppose to be fairly rare by 2001.

From what I learned from a write up on another site. You can run just about anything for fluid in the trans but there is a catch. The Dodge Factory fluid is a GL-4 fluid and its rated for 100k miles between changes. But if you using any GL-5 fluids it does attack the syncro's over time so as the writeup suggested was to change GL-5 fluids at 30k miles and Dodge factory fluids every 100k miles. Being I'm at 224k miles and rolling with the Cummins and never had a 5th gear nut problem with all the heavy hauling, towing, etc. I say stick to the factory fluid. We know its design for it...

Eeekkk! Change both. Coolant doesn't matter on appearance what matters is the pH level. Fresh coolant will be right close to pH of 7.0. If you want to extend coolants I highly suggest you test the coolant with pH test strips made for coolant. Once coolant degrade it starts eating everything. By the time you see the rusty color its way too late. Coolant was still nice and green in my 96 and it was still factory coolant with 112k miles. Opps... Too late it already started. Power Steering fluid does break down with heat and pressure. So over time the fluid starts to fail then parts start to wear and BOOM. Now the steering box or htdro-booster is feeding everything else debris (metal particles). Since there is no filter it doesn't take very long for the debris to wipe out a system. Any fluid that is discolor including brake fluid it broke down...

Even on my 2002 rig I got 150k miles of washboard road use. I love the sealed bearing because less to go wrong but the price of them... Wow!

You might have to consider calling around to a local trailer shop and seeing what they have for plugs and such. Like myself if I've got to do it again I would head down to BigTex factory in Nampa, ID and just pickup a new cord for a trailer. All sealed connector and cord.

Nice. That's starting to look good. Q: Did you seal the ends of the tubing where the wires come out with silicone?

Nothing right now just odd shifting but get much more than 0.1 Volts AC then damage start occuring. I'm not absolute about this but more AC noise the more damage.