Mopar1973Man

Creek water and green or yellow anti-freeze. (Less the sand and mud). 11 years and 222k miles no issues.

Auto door locks is a central timer thing...

Ok. Something to share with you then. I had a gent that had the very same problem with the P0341 and P1690 we went through the diagnostics as I listed above. Not was wrong. He replaced the cam sensor, the VP44, even did a custom cam sensor thinking maybe the cam was moving. (thrust plate). Needless to say it was a weak connection either at the ECM or Cam Sensor because after the dealer replaced both plugs (ECM and Cam sensor) the problem was gone. So since you have a intermittent problem like light switch it going to be a bad connection or loose wire or maybe a broken wire somewhere.

More to add... Bosch VP44 injection pump requirements http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements Bosch VP44 injection pump fuel pressure specifications http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

No grid heater will make it tough down at about 20-25*F on 24V engine.So I would look on the oil filter side of the block for a heater. Typically NAPA would sell the cord for about $30 bucks. If the heater is missing (pipe plug in the hole) then just order a block heater for it. If you want simple get a freeze plug style and install it.The only other reason a 4BT would have a tough time starting in cool weather is the rings are wore out. I would then do a compression test to verify the cylinder health.

Remember 5% of 35 Gallons is 1.75 gallons or 20:1 ratio. When I'm mixing 2 cycle oil is at 128:1 ratio or 1 ounce per gallon or 0.02% ...Huge difference. I don't even suggest mixing over 100:1 ratio because of the cetane and cSt problem.

Here read up on the two codes. P0341 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/176-p0341-camshaft-position-sensor-signal-missing P1690 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor If you need a wiring map they are here. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/87-dodge-ram-turbo-cummins-24-valve-engine-wiring

I've never had a reason for synthetic oils for the truck being more people have crossed the million mile mark on petroleum oils. To this day I never found anyone that cross million milestone with synthetics. I use 15w-40 Mobil petroleum oils all winter long with absolutely zero issues. (Minus weather too)

Brushes going south or the commutator wearing out? Something is increasing the amperage draw across the contacts.

I'm also a stock hydro's with a Soutbend Con OFE disc and no issues here. Solid hook up and very good control.

I gather this is a black/tan color cable? Which would be a ground lead. The straight black is the charge cable. I would do the AC noise test to verify if the alternator is indeed creating AC noise.

Then there is this too. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8458-Thoughts-about-Raptor-pumps I'll post pics later on I've got a drawstraw yet to install.

I would do this as well. Als overify the speed your traveling with a GPS since your speedometer is most likely skewed with larger tires. [*]Check for codes [*]Check fuel pressure from idle to WOT [*]Make sure you getting into lockup [*]Overboosting (should show up in the error codes)

I got my shot to install another Raptor pump. They seem to getting worse all the time now. The base frame bracket is now a composite plastic of some sort. Can't even tight up the bolt enough to set the lock washers. It seem to start bowing really faster and looking like you could break the corners off. The since its plastic they had to make it thicker now. So now the plates don't fit behind the existing fuel line line with old school steel plates. You've got to lever the steel lines up to get the plastic plate behind it. Oh make sure to pull one holder bolt so you can. Then with all the quick connect fittings. The 2 fittings right at the pump are wiggle loose right out of the box. I can see this going bad in a very short time for the owner. The pump itself seem to be a good pump. I wasn't impressed with fact the Pureflow included two push lock fitting to trim there hoses down. It would of been better to go back to the old school roll of hose and push lock JIC's and been done. The new quick connect fitting rely on o-rings to seal the fittings where Push Lock JIC's had tapers to seal the fittings. Still cannot do custom installs with the new quick connect system. If it was me I would of install the pump up be the bed side to guard it more for the owner since he uses the truck offroad. But since it pre-cut hose I force to mount the pump in the damage path of the front tires.I did manage to toss a bit of custom install to it which can be done. Near the back of the engine on the frame rail there was a nice hole large enough to for the hose and the electrical so I ran it from there to the larger hole at the transfer case. At that point I only had about 1 foot exposed. Then since the owner had the bed off I was able to run the hose along the stock line up to the tank top. Looks very good.

I just got done doing a VP44 and Raptor pump on a local rig yesterday. I'm getting quick I manage to remove and replace a VP44 in about 2 hours. Then install the Raptor pump custom in just a bit over a hour. I think what was a amazing I did this outside in the rain no less. But for priming. I bumped the starter twice. Had 1, 3, 4 injector lines cracked. Then cracked till she attempted to start. Tighten the injector lines. Not a problem it started up and purred a bit rough. Couple of good deep throttle strokes to blow the air from the lines and smoothed out even more. http://goo.gl/maps/RQvoD

Well you put us to the test and found out no one gets there head bit off. Just the truth is told to the poster the best way we can. But back to the smoke thing. I found this out about smoke. I've got a speed zone in New Meadows, ID from 25, 35, to 55 MPH. All the locals know this and what you do is get to the 35 MPH speed limit sign doing 35 MPH get into 4th gear and mat the throttle. Take note of your speed at the 55 MPH sign which is about 180 feet from the 35 speed limit sign. Set on 5x5 with the full cloud of smoke I'm doing 61-62 MPH at the 55 MPH. Set on 5x3 which in nearly smoke less for me I cross the sign at 65 MPH. This has been witness by my friend in New Meadows, ID. So just more food for thought...Yeah I know your just yanking everyones chain...

I never use thread sealants or teflon tape on any fittings. Just way too risky of getting a small particle into the Injection pump that might cause damage or into a injector and plug it up.All my fitting are assembled with self-sealing brass fittings that do not require any sealant or tapes.

I kept my stock filter can. So I kept my fuel heater and WIF sensor which is fine by me. Easy way is to get a Big Line Kit and then you'll have the fitting from the filter to the VP44 and the hose for $39 bucks. Pretty simple.

Welcome to the family... As for the deletes its going to tough trying to find deletes and tuners being that EPA is cracking down on people doing it. Kind of like back in the day of pulling catalytic converters off of gas powered rigs.

Yes. I did have (past tense) a smoke switch. Yes it produces smoke but the function of it created more problems than its worth. Like mine all I got to do is unhook the MAP sensor with my Edge Comp and the smoke rolls. So all I did was add a switch on the MAP signal lead. Edge Comp would drive the ECM signal to max boost.Problem... Max boost means max retarded timing. Which in turns means lower MPG's and lower power. So after about year or so I ditched it completely. I would say smoke switch is junk idea. Even with a truck build for power that does produce smoke tend to just prove your a poor tuner. Because a good tuner should be capable of making big horse power with little smoke. I'm at around 400 HP now and have little to no smoke and proud of it! Basically smoke switch drives the MAP signal to the highest boost without tripping the over boost code or defueling.27.2 MPG... Catch me if you can.

Absolutely YES!I did my first brake job at 185k miles. :whistle:90% of all my stopping is done with a exhaust brake I only use my service brakes after my speed is below 20-25 MPH. They hardly ever get used.

I would assume it would be part of the central timer computer like on the 2nd gens (if this still holds true).

The instructor that we had was also a vendor of tools. He had a lifetime warranty on all tools. There was absolutely nothing his tools wouldn't cut. He went as far as cutting the steering wheel off a harden shaft. No damage at all to the tool. Now as for our dept tools I know are much much weaker and would never be able to do that. The biggest thing he cut was a 3/4 axle tube and shaft but I hard to say it the tool lost then. As for the airbag we where taught how to find most of them using a peel and peek method looking for devices. Even shot a few bags off to show strength. We has cut the driver side back so the instructor leaned the seat back against the airbag driver wheel and fired it. The seat back flew a good 20-30 feet up and back. Did the same with the passenger bag and once again eject that seat back like a toy straight up in the air. Our policy is to cut the battery power first thing to minimize the chances of deployment of a airbag during rescue.

Never seen one... Could you post a pic of this...

Remember to check the fuse size for the maximum amp rating that you would be handling like mine is a 15 Amp fuse so you know its going to be less than 15 Amps.