Mopar1973Man

Actually mine didn't get that bad but noticing a slight wetness at that seam and check the nuts and sure enough the nuts where not very tight.

I would do like Flagman says... I would either fix the current headlight case to prevent water leakage or just replace with a junkyard headlight. Then I when out and bought a set of Silver Stars and they are lasting a long time.

I talked with him for a short time and it had something to do with air bubbles in the return line. This is what he chasing right now. There a pump on the back of the CP3 that he ordered.

Yes. Diesel fuel has to heated to 150-180*F to reach flash point. So below these temperatures diesel fuel will not readily ignite with a open flame. I've been direct plumbed like this for over 8 years now and no issues at all. Gauge has worked flawless for the 8 years. The tubing you see in the pictures is Air Brake Tubing and its rated for a burst pressure of 600-800 PSI so I hardly doubt a mere 15-20 PSI pump will blow it.

Just left him a message so I can get more feedback on this...

Actually it can't be done that way. What we are basically doing is unhooking the IAT sensor and stuffing a resistor 2.2k ohm in the plug. So no its not a momentary thing for the MPG fooler. But for the high idle it is. But then again if you start with timer circuits and PCB design your adding cost to it. I know Ed is working darn hard to keep the cost down and keep the design easy.

I've had that happen only once. After the occurrence I just filled it back up and ran it. Never done it again. :shrug:Mine seem to push it out the cap and on to the floor. Dang sick pump puking on the floor.

No codes that I've been told.He describes it as like a piston slap knock kind of.Unknown on the cetane boost I'll ask.

You might have to pull the regulator out and clean and check it for damage. After seeing the adjustable regulators in another post here now I know why you guys have problems. Way too much hardware in one little hole. But I would pull it out and check the regulator for binding or debris.

At least you got good idle pressure!

Like myself I'm running Edge Comp (5x3), +50 HP Injectors and HX35 Turbo and its absolutely fine for a combination. Towing power is awesome and EGT's are very controllable. He's running... The only thing about a turbo upgrade is the amount of lag you might add.

EKkkk! I highly suggest against the 45* cuts. Draw Straw I without any cuts. I've got the thickness of a quarter (coin) from the bottom and 4 small notches on the tip no more that 1/16 of inch deep. You have to remember the bottom of the tank will defect when going from empty to full almost a full 3/8" difference. As for the flow issue I would go back over all the plumbing and verify there is no hard kinks or bends that might slow flow down. Then also double check the pressure regulator I've heard they had issues.

Damage to both lift pump and VP44. Maybe even the fuel tank as well.

The only thing I don't like about it. Here in Idaho I see summer temps as high as 115*F and we all know about the heat soak issues with the VP44. The fact a mechanical pump is that low at idle bother me. Where my AirDog is nearly solid and never moves much from 17-18 PSI as of lately. In your case make sure to kick the idle up after starting hot to purge the heat from the VP44 you need to get above 14 PSI to get the overflow valve open.

Just need to yank out those 6 speed trans and slap in a 5 speed. I only use 4 quarts (1 gallon) no problems and no 5th gear problems.

Ummm... How? When I plant my foot to the floor on 5x5 I'm running or using is one in the same. The only reason I'm running 5x3 is smoke control. Same amount of fuel. The sublevel 3 is 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI then cut loose with level 5 power.

Stay in touch and keep us posted on that pump I'm curious of the life span and performance of it.

Master/slave unit from NAPA is like a $110 bucks and you have to bleed yourself. Still running mine years later. (Soutbend ConOFE Clutch)

:lmao2:Internet myth... I ran 5x5 solid for over 2 years and got good MPG numbers and no issues with my VP44 injection pump. I've got nearly 200k on my VP44 injection pump now and still rolling just fine.

I've got a member (Towhungerford) that called today and is having problems with a 2003 Dodge Cummins that has a knock while under load and goes away after it warms up. The injectors where just replaced and the knock came after the injector replacement. The injectors where replaced because of hard starting issues. But now there is a audible knock while under load cold but as the engine warms up the knock leaves. Got me scratching my head.

Bad cab grounds? Check the grounds at the driver side kick panel and the grounds under the hood on the driver side.

I agree with MnTom the tank vent on top on the sender is plugged up.

Usually the fuel pressure on the WOT will drop with a dirty filter where demand is the highest.But if the coolant temperature is high your idle could drop lower causing a drop in fuel pressure.

Or is it like the old stock Carters that just return the fuel flow back to the input side? Re-circulating the fuel from output back to input.

Anytime a clutch hydraulic problem occurs it just best to replace both master and slave. I typically just go to local NAPA store and buy master and slave and bleed myself. Hang the whole unit from the shop ceiling and let gravity do its job allowing the air to rise while pumping the slave cylinder rod.