Mopar1973Man

Going to need air bags to level out the truck. Might also take it to a local truck scales and see what everything weighs out at.Hex lets see some inside the RV pictures...Heck I'm hitch up and ready to go. No sag and not even on the helpers...

Yes it will but there is a flip side to this problem. It not the fuel that becomes a issue but the boost pressure. As you add more fuel there is more boost pressure created and so as you start to get towards 20 PSI the wastegate opens but being you got extra fuel the truck will start to pass 20 PSI anyways and ECM will limit the fuel. So the fueling box is to control boost fooling as well as adding extra timing and fuel the stock software.

Up here Idaho its sold in both states either in full rounds or split. Typically a slightly lower price like $140-$160 for red fir in rounds and $160-$180 split and stacked. Then if you hold out till winter time and all the roads are closed then firewood can be as high as $200 to $250.

Just remember when the tuner, computer or display goes you lose all you gauges. But if you go modular then if a single gauge goes you only have to replace 1 gauge. But with the tuner 9 times out of 10 you end up replacing the entire thing maybe under warranty or maybe on your own dime. Something to consider.

Hence why I said...<br> <br> The pile after 3 trips now. Now to relax..

Ahh... The Lilacs!I've got a monster bush next to the front door as tall as the house and another in the hillside near the front door. Another one out near the cherry and apples trees in the front yard. Finally got another bush in the backyard near the generator shed. (That turn out trick panoramic pictures!)Oh... I love the smell of these on a warm morning... Wow!Now get the black berries going...

I'm a manual trans guy so...* Fuel Pressure* Pyrometer* BoostThose are the three gauges I run. What I would in your case is consider doing another 4 gauge pod on the column for the trans temp. I'm considering as a toy is getting a rear diff gauge and mounting it on the column and then add a toggle switch so I have a sensor in the diff and one in the trans so I can check either temp on the fly. 2 in 1 combo deal and cover my tail.

Definition of a cord: 4x4x8 feet. (128 cubic feet)Trailer rough measure 8x8x3 to 8x8x4 feet (192-256 cubic feet) Or to make a cord on the trailer: 8x8x2 (128 cubic feet)Needless to say when I started down the mountain the roads where wet and muddy and the first time the exhaust brake hit the trailer was pushing so hard that its started to jack knife the truck at a mere 15-20 MPH. I instantly grabbed the throttle to cancel and pull it out straight again. To fix this problem I had to run 4WD to keep the exhaust brake from jack knifing. Trailer axle was pinned to the trailer frame. My soft Load Range C's where aired up to 50 PSI max and they where looking a bit well soft.

Out and got another load... Closer to 2 cords...

You should be ok. Typically the needle valve is skipped and the isolator takes a beating usually kill it. Maybe this why you isolator is holding up good is you protecting both the isolator and gauge with the needle valve.

I ran PS every other tank roughly guessing at doses. Never saw any gains to performance or MPG but it sure did help kill my OEM VP44 injection pump at 50K miles.Kind of like Dodge and Cummins black listing Fram filters for killing engines by plugging the oil cooler jets. so Power Service is blacklisted (in my book) for help killing my VP44 injection pump.

Love it... I use the saw in all positions that handle allows.

Kind of like this tree you can see my 16" stick on the tree and the chainsaw on the ground...

I'm not exactly a Ford guy but I do understand the fuel system in a basic sense. Cetanefreak is right. The oil thickens up and harder to pump to the injectors. So there is a certain amount of lag till the oil temp comes up. Another part of that is the computer trying to control timing and fighting the cold oil as well. Block heater or a oil pan heater helps a bunch in this problem.

Ain't happening now... I already spent big money getting the last one fixed... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7143-Destroyed-a-turbo-with-a-hose-clamp?highlight=hose+clamp

For every gallon of fuel pumped into the tank you want 1 ounce of oil added. So if you pump 14 gallons of fuel in the tank then you want 14 ounces of oil. Fairly simple?128:1 Ratio... so for every 128 ounces (1 gallon) you put 1 ounce of oil. :wink:How often every time. Why? Because Bosch states for optimal life of the VP44 fuel is required to be 450 or less in HFRR score but todays US fuel is 520 HFRR on average. Higher the number the more damage occurs.

Like in Riggins, ID there is only one island with diesel/gas pumps and always taken up with someone pumping gas. I at least have the common sense to go to the gas pumps when I'm driving the gasser around. I won't plug up the diesel island that's just rude.

Ask Dorkweed about his Motorguard bypass filter and his 78K adventure with WalMart SuperTech engine oil.

Yeah... You should be able to swap the sender for the schrader...

Passenger side battery ground. This ground deals with the PCM directly. Then test your alternator of AC Noise.

I can't find the stock one per say but ask Eric about it. But if that doesn't pan out I know he's got these... Schrader Valve - Which will fit your Tapped banjo bolt. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Brass-Schrader-valve-p/31482.htm Tapped banjo - which you've already got. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Tapped-Banjo-Bolt-p/tbb.htm

Between the Vulcan Performance +50 Injectors and my Edge Comp on 5x3 its a wicked amount of power. There is nothing little about the the power gains. I've still got problems under heavy throttle keeping the tire tires from breaking free on dry pavement. :burnout2:As for injector performance. I've notice a change of the last few days as the injectors are getting quieter and quieter. There is nearly no injector rattle occur now. Very very similar sounding in the cab to a 3rd gen Dodge. Idle is really smooth and steady now. Very little to zero smoke set with 5x3 on the Edge Comp (120 HP max power with 67% stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost). I'm hoping this next week I get to do a RV test and report back with that. Also get the ScanGauge II verified. As for kicking the pig and opening up to 5x5. Now you got a smoke monster. I was playing around up on the forestry roads and Wow! Talk about blacking out the road behind me. (Night!?)As for hauling firewood and climbing grades its truly a different story between the RV275 and the +50 HP. I've seen good power and such with the RV275's but now playing with the +50 HP wow! Even my buddy Taz (here on the site) happen to mention how much harder it was to keep head upright as I drop the hammer on the throttle. It pulls hard and very very strong even MoparMom has commented on the pulling power.As for MPG's no I've not calibrated or verified yet but numbers are very similar to the RV275's slightly better at times.

I don't know what to say. Wow! http://www.fs2500.com/ http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=klcBRnyCSvo

I know this is the assembly of a Fram filter but the we can see how at least they are made.

Just remember if the debris is plenty and big enough then it will plug the radiator core tube up and the overheat will get worse. I've had this happen with the old 1973 Dodge Charger where I drained, drop of a bottle of radiator flush, jump out in traffic in California and BAM! I was over heated in no time flat. When I did managed to get home the radiator was plugged so tight it didn't flow any water at all. So off to the radiator shop to be rodded out.