Mopar1973Man

My +40*F offset is measured at 0-5 PSI of boost. Right now its a +50*F offset because my winter fronts are still in. (30-35*F outside temp = 80-85*F IAT)

Brake light switch is failing. Time to replace the brake light switch.

Wire tap isn't working... There should be 12V on your grey lead in the cab then... Should ALWAYS have 12V with the key ON and probe either the grey wire in the cab or the tap point of the VP44. But in the end there should be 12V on the grey wire. If its showing 0 volts then your NOT wire tapped. So basically you got a Edge EZ with that Edge Comp and no extra fueling.

(No comment...)

As far as what I know all passenger vehicles including one tons truck have to have OBDII service port after 1996 for smog reasons. All 1996 to current Dodge truck including one tons have the port and do report P-codes. Yes. ScanGauge II will work on 1998.5 to 2002 without a issue. There is a compatibility list over on ScanGauge II site (www.scangauge.com)

I would double check all wiring that any modification might of tapped into. Sounds like there is a network bus issues too. I know its not displaying the NO BUS message but the fact there is a lack of ability to dump error codes. You might double check all dash grounds as well as engine grounds.

Well... Come to think about it I've got a project worth doing this summer. I need to take everything out of my truck seat wise and pull up the carpeting and lay it over the picnic table out back and hose all the spilled drinks, dropped food, and plan old dirt out of the carpets. I've done this to the 96 Dodge Ram and the carpets looked so good and clean just about like brand new.

Pepsi71ocean is running a 200*F thermostat and doing some bench testing on it. So far he's liking the good solid 197-204*F temps from it and good strong heat from the heater.

That's Cool! :cool:At least you did better than me. I won the grand prize on a Snicker's candy contest and got a Soccer Ball which the dog soon ate too.

Heck I've been using 2 cycle oil since 85K miles on the clock. I'm, now at 211K miles and still ticking on the same VP44. According to my records I started my 2 cycle oil theory back in July of 2006. That's 7 years of 2 cycle oil and ZERO VP44 issues and ZERO gelling issues to date...

If it has definition on the display more than likely the definition will be wrong. Because to get the code number and look it up yourself in the Dodge FSM or the article pages here.

1. ECT fooler this is to hold the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) low so high idle will remain set all the time. Once ECT hits 170*F then high idle is canceled. 2. This switch either select the IAT fooler or IAT (Intake Air Temperature) Sensor. 3. This switch selects 143*F IAT Temperature for MPG fooling. 4. This switch selects 13*F (3 cyl) or 26*F (6 Cyl) for high idle mode. I can ditich the #2 switch and then lose the MPG fooler the rest are part of the high idle system. Since the high idle is about fooling for colder IAT temperatures and MPG fooler is about fooling for hotter IAT temperature it makes sense to combine the extra switch in the IAT circuit so you can have both worlds but build it with safety lock outs so you can't select both at once. Oh a road report from yesterday... Made a typical round trip to McCall, ID 70 mile round trip for groceries. Return home at 20.9 MPG. Winter front used. This also includes climbing 7% grade too. Weather: Clear 35*F Actual IAT: ~85*F Forced IAT: 143*F It's nice now because I can flip the switch off and check IAT temps see actual and then set the fooler again.

He's got twins...

I did the same thing with both of my trucks. Even brand new I crawled all over the Cummins looking at everything. The 96 I did the same thing. I wound up with 2 very good truck that work perfectly when I bought them. Like I tell everyone if you plan on buying a car/truck wear you grubby clothes or have cover-all with you and take you time and inspect under the vehicle. Dealers always power wash and shine coat the top of the engine but do nothing under the truck. You'll be surprise how much damage or repairs you can see from under the truck.

That alternator voltage is a pass in my book... Anything under 0.1 VAC is good.

I don't suggest the Voltage regulator install unless its for a temporary band-aid till you get a replacement PCM. The PCM voltage regulator is more precise than the external voltage regulator. The external using air temperature for voltage control where the PCM actually samples the battery temperature. When a battery is cold the charge voltage is increased till the battery temp warms up. But on a external voltage regulator if the regulator is sensing cold temps from wind or other sources then the charge rate could be held to high to long and boil the electrolyte of the battery (overheating). Then visa-versa could happen if its a hot summers day then the external regulator could reduce and not charge the battery properly and leave you with a dead battery. These are a few of the reason the old school regulator was upgraded to the PCM. I'm not saying it doesn't work but the PCM does a better job of regulation than the external.

Turn all your alarms, limits and such off. These tend to create more issues than help. But still your wire tap should show 12V at the posi-tap.

OP is using a posi-tap on the VP44 wire like this vs. my stealth plate. Or scotchlock like this. Both methods are known to having corrosion issues and connection issues because of the connection isn't exactly water tight then the connector cut some of the wire too at times.

I wish I had that right now I'm still fighting a ABS/BRAKE light issue. I know like Wild & Free posted a while back that if you replace one sensor in the front you should replace both. Well I replaced the broken one right off and the light reset going out the shop door as soon as I hit the highway and built up speed the light are back on again. Speed sensor mismatch. I need to get the other sensor...

The HR pump have more timing gains than HO pump. From the way it was explained to me and suggested not to stack modules on top of the HR pumps for this reason. The internal parts might be a bit different but the timing curve has change a bit too. Like over on DB.com one has proven that a HR VP44 pump with a chip actually reduced HP/TQ over a standard SO VP44 pump and chip.

No. That all I could find on a google image hunt for "vp44 stealth plate".

More than likely the ABS speed sensor problem is interfering with the cruise control function so you would have to resolve the ABS issues most likely to get the cruise working properly again.

Just the black plastic of the Bosch VP44 injection pump PSG. The allen screw is like a needle and pierces the plastic for the wire tap. Nothing really to see. http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/attachment.php?attachmentid=10618&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1172549896

I'm curious is it a full HVAC case removal or is it a crawl under the dash fix it thing?

In normal daily driving I doubt there is a much of increase without supporting mods like AH64ID has done like bigger turbo, cam, etc. In a full blown racing application I can see the need for the intake even more.