Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... As stated over on Wikipedia... If its used for inhalers and air soft guns I doubt there is any issues with discharging freon in the atomphere.

Hmmmm... That a lot of water! Wow!I've only got 50 gallons but mounted at the rear bumper. Which tends to me make me a bit tongue light running full tank which I typically do.I'm really curious of the pin weight...

Well I got back from a camping trip and hauling the trailer around. Yes I can tag 35 PSI without thinking but do I really want to hold it? Naw... I typically go over at 20-25 PSI in 4th Gear holding 53-55 MPH... Not a problem!

I'm at 147K miles and going for 200K...* 2 Cycle Oil (128:1 Ratio)* AirDog Filter (3 Micron)* Stock Filter (10 micron)* 17-19 PSI Fuel Pressure or cold temp pressure 15-17 PSI (<+32*F)

I'm not too worried about the coolant passages as much as like the heater core, oil cooler, head gasket, etc. These are THIN items and take very little to ruin. So that why I suggest talking to a radiator shop about the coolant flush so not to make things worse... :smart:As for the callipers that points out what I've always said about full break down of the caliper and cleaning to remove the debris. Over time water and debris build up in the bottom start rusting. 197K miles and still got factory callipers and rotors...

I've been using Fleetguard filters since the begining. No problems here... As for the filter guru talk to AH64ID...

:doh:Actually you goofed on the brakes. The piston should of been cleaned and not bore honed. Then the piston should of fell to the bottom of the bore without the seals in place. Normally I do have to use a C clamp to push the assembled pistons back in. But the dissembled callipers should allow the piston to fall to the bottom. Honing is only required if the bore is rusted.Now as for the coolant system that was caused from acid or basic coolant erroding the block and other metals. What your looking at is the oxides of those metals. Just because the coolant is still clean and the freeze point is good doesn't mean the pH level is good. As for the cooling system I would ask a local radiator shop on how to clean that up. (Boiling, acid wash, etc.)

I know where a bunch of RV dump are close to home. But I've also got a clean out on the septic system to allows me to dump at home or clean up the tanks.Just a nasty job no matter how you want to deal with it...

Yes... Oversize tire will effect the overhead computer. The bad part is there is no way for you to recalibrate the output (Flow rate GPH) of the fuel system after changes. So you might be able to correct the speed and distance but you have trouble with flow rates.

All I remember its one of AH64ID's post about the smarty...

They will work... The difference in design is that starting batteries are more for short high amps where deep cycles are for low long amp draws. Then the starting batteries don't have a well for sulphation where deep cycle batteries have a extra space below the plate for sulphated pate material to drop. So yes they will work but won't last as long as deep cycles...

:shrug:I change coolant and thermostats yearly and never seen a overheat nor underheat issue yet. This thermostat I got now is a bit low but not bad 185-195*F range still. I may wander a bit on cold days but seem very steady now with summer coming.

Sorry... Wikipedia.org... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature

How early or late the injection pulse will occur. But remember as boost rises timing retards. Somewhere around the site in the CR stuff there is a timing map of a stock timing and it got a huge drop in timing.

No... Still use a 190*F even towing. Closer you get to 200*F the more efficient the engine runs.

Well the only cost there is would be the Anti-freeze (3 gallons) and a thermostat. As for a coolant filter it would be good idea if you can hook it up properly and remember to change the filter every 30K or once a year. 190*F is better. Hotter the better for MPG's reasons. Pulling / Towing has nothing to do with it. It's the age of the coolant. As coolant ages it will drift from neutral pH (7) toward acidic (lower number) or basic (highier number). With 3 year the coolant starts to get corrosive. By 5 years you seeing the rusty color and now its too late oxidation of all the part that the coolant touches in now breaking down. (Radiator, heater core, oil cooler, head gasket, water pump seal and bearings, etc) This is why my block is still spotless and there is no scale blooms in the radiator. All this occurs after the pH level drifts away from 7. So if you want to you can buy a bottle of strips and test your coolant on a regular basis and when it drifts then you can change it. But since the yearly changes (covering 25-30K miles a year) works here perfectly why not?

It not so much the bolts that are a problem because there is several people that push 45-50 PSI of boost with standard head bolts and no problems with the gasket. The problem with the head gasket failing is either coolant or drug based. People that use high levels of Water/meth, nitrous, propane, etc. are more prone to head gasket failure. Kind of like you John I know your setup with Water/Meth so as long as your using more water and less meth your fine.Cylinder pressures are sharply increased with these drugs... Then coupled with weak gaskets from lack of coolant changes and BAM! Now you got a crowd of people claiming you can't make past 30-35 PSI towing without blowing a head gasket.Your right John there is a bunch of different factors the will reduce the longevity of the head gasket...

Like this? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=19

Drain the system. Pull the thermostat Put a garden hose in the radiator on high flow. Start engine and allow the engine to idle till the water is clear. Drain the system. Re-install thermostat. Re-load with 50/50 coolant and water. 9 years and 180K miles...

Vacuum line is disconnected or broken. Its a safety thing for the defroster vents to be the only thing to operate.

Yes I split it out of the other thread to prevent hijacking... (Doing my job!)

Any coolant will work. I'm using a prestone, WalMart SuperTech, or Napa coolant.

Years ago I convert a older Dodge Ram Charger to a doorless hunting rig for a friend. What I did was pulled the door pop the pins out and put then in from the other side and sanded the pins slightly. So it was easy to take a small hammer pop the pins and load the door in back and cruise the mountain roads doorless...

Dripley your fan might be locked solid too.As for cold free spin mine is so tight that I can pull the belt around 1/4 turn. But now start the truck drive 1 mile and then shut down and check again now it spins rather freely.I check to make sure it not locked solid with the hose test. Both the 96 and 02 behave the same way.

I flush and change coolant yearly (30K miles) and change the thermostat at the same time. Remember everything the coolant touches can be affected. So if the coolant pH level goes acidic (below 7) then oil cooler, head gasket, radiator, heater core, water pump seals, etc all are affected by corrosion of the acidic coolant. So I flush regularly to keep the pH at 7 as much as possible. I've never seen a scale bloom in my radiator nor a coolant leak yet. (Coming up on 200K miles 10 years!) So I know my head gasket is still strong and will take 45-50 PSI without thinking...