Mopar1973Man

Next post just scroll down when you hit the reply button there is more below the box...

Well gang Idaho is heading back up again... :spend:These pictures were taken as of Feb. 28, 2012Both of these fuel stations are in McCall, ID...

Are you actually cranking the engine or just bumping the starter? You must crank the engine for the injection pump to actually pump. Bumping the starter doesn't do any good...

mnelson@mopar1973man.com I'll post it for you... But all you got to do is post it like attachment picture... Go down to Manage Attachments Button and then upload just like a normal picture...

Here is a quick vid of it...

Normal... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/45-tsb-09-02-00-heavy-oil-or-fuel-like-odor

Huh... Odd... Mine chipped the one side lost low position... Replace the resistor and been working fine... Don't ask I don't know...

You might go back t othe guys again that did the work. Maybe the change the truck to work the fork lift and now doesn't work the travel trailer...

Not a problem that's what we are here for... To help each other out!

You mean... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/51-high-idle-mod http-~~-//youtu.be/il7iJCKfmaE

Geez... How much timing do you really need... (24* BTDC) is a bit much don't you think?

Yes that is the resistor pack for the blower motor...

That's going to be a nice little trailer when its all said and done...

Automatic trannies will tell you your doing something wrong by either slipping or by gaining temperature. So if the tranny temp is low and the gear is holding strong then enjoy... The best man to talk to about auto's and towing heavy is CajFlynn that man hauls the loads and does it for at least million of miles!

What a mess... :rolleyes:I'm curious to see your new stove jammed in there...

Here is a picture of at least my 35 gallon fuel tank...So just because of a bit of slope or maybe weight in the bed might allow you to fill one of these voids so now with a extra 0.5 to 1.0 gallons could really possible change you calibration.

I would base that on trans temp and ablity to hold the gear without slippage. Like myself I've got a manual but normally don't tow any faster than 55-60 MPH being my trailer tires are rated only to 65 MPH. So I can pull 5th gear most of the time on flat ground. But as soon as the speed falls below 50-53 MPH I drop from 5th to 4th to reduce strain on the trans and 5th gear nut. So the same should be true for Auto's as well. As your speed starts to slide down you know when to kick out of OD and pull your RPM's up to lighten the load.

If its rusted shut try freeing it with a light tapping from a small hammer and PB blaster... If you damage it trying then replace it. But either way you got nothing to lose... I would atempt to free it...But I give you something to think about the only way for that wastegate to rust shut is too much light driving. You might consider hitching up a trailer now and then and working the truck hard. That would build some good heavy boost enough to move the arm on a regular basis. I tend to do the same thing being conservative all wek long light driving and light boost. But about once a week I'll take the truck out warm it up and flog the hell out of it. Better yet when get the tags for the trailer soon I'll just hitch it up and haul it around for 10 miles.

Here you go... Good ol' ISX to the rescue...

Doubtful but there is a way to test that too... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection If the turbo bearing are going south you would have oil in the exhaust pipe and/or oil in the intake piping. This would be cause from hot shutdowns. In other words you should take a peek at your pyrometer and get your exhaust temp down to 300*F before shutdown. This prevents turbo shaft from coking up and doing damage to the turbo.

Actually its the return line to the filler neck will have all this behind the fitting...

He's there is no cutoff switch it just too small of a heater (750w) to heat all hat cast iron, 6 gallon of coolant and the air around it. What seriously funny about it is the water heater here at the house is (1,100w) in a 60 gallon water heater that is insulated does just fine to getting 140*F hot water...After relizing this I no longer will park a vehicle outside in the weather and plug it in. It extremely wasteful. When you can park that same vehicle in a unheated garage and plug it in now you got a double bonus. First the block temperatures are higher because of less wind ans weather contact. Also the the garage now is about 2-5*F warmer from the radiant heat given by the block heater.This is exactly how I use to keep it during fire fighting days. I'd keep it plugged in and the shop was always just a taste warmer than outside. The windows never had frost/ice to scrape off.

Geez... CRS... I wish I could remember the last bill I paid for oils... It was 1 ATF, 1 15w-40, 1 10w-30 and 1 80w-90 for like $300 bucks...

Here is my supplier... http://jacobs-oil.com/

I also use 1 gallon windshield wiper fluid jugs for lube oils... I'm also buying bulk oil in 5 gallon buckets too.