Mopar1973Man

Ekkkk... I don't know... All I can say is that the stock modules are like gold if you do find one you going to pay for it. I know you don't want a new intank pump either... You might consider talking to Eric at VulcanPerformance.com and ask him if there is a module to be had or a way to modify around the issue...

Return line shouldn't cause problems... It would be a suction lines from the tank to the pump more than likely... Those line rarely ever leak outward but seen to suck air in and drain the prime easy. Then while running they suck more air reducing the fuel pressure.

We all waiting on updates...

Is it 4WD? Does have U joints or CV joints?

All I can say is hook up another voltmeter and watch. As for all the communication its done over the CCD Network. So 1 bad wire would be completely system failure (NO BUS and no gauges). http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

D'Oh!

Hmmm... Go out and but plenty of beer... Invite your friend over to drink beer. Discuss the fact of dropping your fuel tank. Then tell your friend to do the work while you hold the camera... Wasn't hard at all... I drank beer and held the camera... Seriously... Yes the guys are right get the tank as empty as possible. Then disconnect the fuel line and temp a hose to a 5 gallon fuel can or bucket. Then bump the starter and let the lift pump pump the rest out. Now the tank is empty... Filler neck hose, vent hose, sender wiring, etc... Diconnect this stuff... As for the fuel lines leave alone for now. But unscrew the collar nut and be sure its free. This will allow the sender to come out of the tank. Now drop the tank down by pulling the 2 bands and lowering it slowly. Allow the sender to come out of the tank. Now the sender will be easy to disconnect form the fuel line and you can get your finger in there.

Well I suggested to her to consider the Raptor series pump then also for a just a bit more money there is the FASS 95 which is close to the Raptor in design. Thank you both for the comment they keep me going...

Tell them you want to barrow the computer a sec and then take them here to this thread and show them the pic of the Air Brake line... I've done that more than once to my NAPA guys...

Correct this is the driver side looking up under the dash and the driver side of the HVAC case...

PCM is most likely feeding the intrument cluster bad data... Being that the PCM has a problem with the regulator I'm pretty sure the PCM is the cause.

I don't see anyone around do you?

Ummm... My part store is 52 miles away one direction. So a 2 hour trip just to get it... I'm in the middle of nowhere, Idaho...

Ford really out did themselves this time... :banghead:

Actually the HVAC vacuum has a black line that runs all the way to the driver side of the trans hump in the cab there is a connector ther you might check.

Right here Rogan... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/cad/cad.htm

Here head over to the wiring pages... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm That will help... But the grounds on the ECM and VP44 come back to the battery terminal on the driver side.

100 GPH is good up to 450-500 HP from what I've been told... But when you looking at prices of pumps typically the 100 and 150 are close in price. Now that leads back to the other problem. 100 GPH is a easy install and just hand tools are needed for the install... But jump to the 150 GPH normally your required to install a draw straw in the tank. So the 150 GPH pumps are more work to install but have better performance pressure wise.

What the ??? I never heard of that...

You could the old Dodge Van and truck were pull cable type vent once long ago. But even back in the 70's that I remember all the vehicles with A/C had vacuum even then. It was just the heat only system that had pull cables. Now on the 94-98 bodies the blend door is cable twist cable operated but the rest is vacuum controlled.

Hopefully AH64ID will come along he's the a filter guru of sorts...

Sorry no... But the local NAPA store here in McCall, ID sell it by the foot. (57 Cents a foot) Strange... Its standard 1/8 inch air brake line. Nobody does... All your big racing fans don't like fuel in the cab because of safety factors. But the thing is first off we are not racing the truck. Then the second thing diesel fuel is not gasoline. Diesel fuel needs to be heated to at least 150* and then you can throw a match at it (POOF!) but at normal air temp you can throw match at diesel all day long and won't light. You got more chances of having a engine fire from a leaking injection tube than a leak gauge in the cab. Isolators have had issues all along. Most people that buy them get frustrated and yank them out because of poor pressure reading compaired to a direct plumbed gauge.

Here is a short video of taking one of the many back roads into McCall, Idaho. I was doing this to avoid traffic and road construction. Which it worked out wnoderful but figure since I had the camera might as well let you guys drool over where I live...

As most of you know I've just barely changed out my brake pads on my truck for the first time. I finally replaced my factory Mopar pads at 187K miles. Now a lot of you where shocked at the distance I got from my stock brakes. Well here is a short video of how I come to stops using the exhaust brake mostly. I used sub titles in the video to show what function is occuring. More videos to come! Ok... Here is another video of traveling down Goose Creek grade. Its a 7% grade with tight corners marked for 25 MPH. I travel up and down this grade all the time and never have to use the service brakes on the way down. But here is the video...